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Discussion Starter #41
Dealer is going to swing by to pick it up friday AM, so unless I can fix it by then, guess I'll be writing a fat check.
 

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Verified via multimeter:

R8 is the only fuse not getting any power.

The Inertia switch is also not getting power.

That could be good news. The power for that fuse comes from the positive stud under the MFRU from what I can tell. You can reach down there and feel where the battery positive and a few other wires share the post down there. Make sure there is zero play


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Discussion Starter #43
That could be good news. The power for that fuse comes from the positive stud under the MFRU from what I can tell. You can reach down there and feel where the battery positive and a few other wires share the post down there. Make sure there is zero play


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Is the MFRU the black box directly below and the the right of the ECU?
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I'm pretty much convinced this is an immobilizer issue. I'm going to try to splice the 1&6 and 5&12 pins together tonight. Last option before dealer. Feel good about it though.
 

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I'm pretty much convinced this is an immobilizer issue. I'm going to try to splice the 1&6 and 5&12 pins together tonight. Last option before dealer. Feel good about it though.

You've still not seen a 12V signal for the pump anywhere yet though, right? The immobilizer is the last link in the process, so you'll see the ECU request the fuel pump whether or not the immobilizer is fried. If you don't see that request (at the inertia switch or elsewhere), then jumping those pins won't do anything.

If that positive post is loose or off, then you won't get a starter or fuel pump or voltage across R8



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Discussion Starter #47
You've still not seen a 12V signal for the pump anywhere yet though, right? The immobilizer is the last link in the process, so you'll see the ECU request the fuel pump whether or not the immobilizer is fried. If you don't see that request (at the inertia switch or elsewhere), then jumping those pins won't do anything.

If that positive post is loose or off, then you won't get a starter or fuel pump or voltage across R8



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R1 is the fuel pump fuse. I am getting power there. Does that mean the pump is getting power?

I'm not getting power at R8 which is the recirculating pump.


This thread seems similar to mine and the immobilizer 'hack' seems to have worked there. http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f320/immobiliser-problem-103702/

Check out post #10 here also: http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f259/help-elise-not-starting-87131/
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Is the positive post accessible from the top?


edit: Told the dealer not to come by until early next week. I'm not ready to give up yet!
 

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Is the positive post accessible from the top?


edit: Told the dealer not to come by until early next week. I'm not ready to give up yet!

Yup, it is. Not very visible but you can reach it by hand and a wrench. I know this from experience...

I would not take an issue like this to the dealer until the last resort. Electrical issues can take hours just to diagnose, so you can be looking at $1,000 before the first part is ordered. Also, most will just start throwing parts at it until it works, so that can be expensive in a hurry.

I probably put 10+ hours into diagnosing my similar-but-different problem with mine and am glad I took the time although it was very frustrating at times. Especially since the car was in a parking garage in a nearby neighborhood and I had to move it by the end of that particular month.


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Discussion Starter #50
Yup, it is. Not very visible but you can reach it by hand and a wrench. I know this from experience...

I would not take an issue like this to the dealer until the last resort. Electrical issues can take hours just to diagnose, so you can be looking at $1,000 before the first part is ordered. Also, most will just start throwing parts at it until it works, so that can be expensive in a hurry.

I probably put 10+ hours into diagnosing my similar-but-different problem with mine and am glad I took the time although it was very frustrating at times. Especially since the car was in a parking garage in a nearby neighborhood and I had to move it by the end of that particular month.


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It is very frustrating. Especially when you don't know what you're doing.

Looking at the wiring diagram, if R1 is getting power, that means that the fuel pump relay is getting power. But if the inertia switch is NOT getting power, that tells me that the fuel pump relay is bad. Right? Am I reading it correctly?
 

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It is very frustrating. Especially when you don't know what you're doing.



Looking at the wiring diagram, if R1 is getting power, that means that the fuel pump relay is getting power. But if the inertia switch is NOT getting power, that tells me that the fuel pump relay is bad. Right? Am I reading it correctly?

It is a good learning experience though - knowing how to use a multimeter and read a wiring schematic are very powerful tools to have. Just take your time and proceed carefully and systematically. Everything is governed by physics, so it only looks like voodoo when we don't see all that's going on.

The biggest bit of info so far is that R8 has no power. Use a thin wire or something like that so you can guarantee you have read that correctly. Either way, it is worth checking that positive junction block since it can wreak havoc if it comes loose. Just disconnect the battery prior to doing anything with a wrench down there



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Discussion Starter #52
It is a good learning experience though - knowing how to use a multimeter and read a wiring schematic are very powerful tools to have. Just take your time and proceed carefully and systematically. Everything is governed by physics, so it only looks like voodoo when we don't see all that's going on.

The biggest bit of info so far is that R8 has no power. Use a thin wire or something like that so you can guarantee you have read that correctly. Either way, it is worth checking that positive junction block since it can wreak havoc if it comes loose. Just disconnect the battery prior to doing anything with a wrench down there



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Is the positive junction block/post the thing labeled rear ve+ on the schematics?
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Start button > Immo (pins 5 to 12) > Start Relay (MFRU) > Starter

ECU > Fuel Pump Relay (MFRU) > Inertia Switch > Immo (pins 1 to 6) > Fuel Pump



So jumping 1&6 and 5&12 in the immobilizer would work EXCEPT the inertia switch isn't getting power, so that wouldn't help the fuel pump (like you said a few posts up).



BUT the fuel pump looks like it should be getting power from the tracker and the tracker and immo 6 are connected via Splice XY. Is that how splices work?

If so, I think the pin jumping solution just might work. It doesn't explain R8 though.


I'll check the studs and all basic connections first, then I'm going to jump the pins (can't hurt anyway).
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Update:

The immobilizer jump worked. The car now starts perfectly. The R8 fuse still isn't getting power, so I'm not sure what's going on there. Nothing seems to be non-functional but time will tell.

I made a quick video on the immobilizer bypass to help anyone else who has to do this in the future.

 

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Awesome! Glad you got it going! The first time I crimped the wires, I didn't do a very good job. Pump died in the middle of a busy road with no shoulder. The good news is that I was able to pull the panel far enough to reach the wires and jiggle them a bit so it worked. It's solid now though, haha


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I also had the same weird problem, I was driving car pretty hard, and my under panel got sucked down.. pulled over and turned off car after re adjusting panel, got in to start car and was gonna drive home slow, car wouldn't start, even with push to start and the fuel pump wasn't priming, so obviously it wouldn't start. Ended up disabling the immobilizer and it fired right up.. oddly enough 10 miles down the road after running it, I started smelling smoke from my a/c comp.. towed it home, it was throwing sparks.. just measured and ordered a shorter belt so no a/c now :( My shift light/tell light still flashes constantly, and I don't know why but my car runs fine. I also made a video on the immboliser.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I also had the same weird problem, I was driving car pretty hard, and my under panel got sucked down.. pulled over and turned off car after re adjusting panel, got in to start car and was gonna drive home slow, car wouldn't start, even with push to start and the fuel pump wasn't priming, so obviously it wouldn't start. Ended up disabling the immobilizer and it fired right up.. oddly enough 10 miles down the road after running it, I started smelling smoke from my a/c comp.. towed it home, it was throwing sparks.. just measured and ordered a shorter belt so no a/c now :( My shift light/tell light still flashes constantly, and I don't know why but my car runs fine. I also made a video on the immboliser. https://youtu.be/HASmwTZJOt8
I watched your video before doing mine. It seems like you left all of the other immobilizer connections (other than 1,5,6,12) open. Is that what you did? I think that's why your tell tale is flashing.
 

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I watched your video before doing mine. It seems like you left all of the other immobilizer connections (other than 1,5,6,12) open. Is that what you did? I think that's why your tell tale is flashing.
Yea I only cut the ones on the ends, I can't remember what they were exactly so maybe that is the problem. When I get finished with my brake problem (m/cylinder went out and now I don't know if I can bleed without scan tool), I will pull out the intereior again and try to re do it. Glad you got your car working again though. :clap:
 
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