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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks

On this final step and the dreaded front clam stuck issue has risen for me.

After much searching I am not finding a lot of discussion on "how" this gets resolved, just that it is an issue one might face.

Any suggested solutions? Just sliding my hand near the stuck spot doesn't work.

Could heat work? Or heat a tool, like a long, flat, metal cake decorator's spatula? I am of course prioritize keeping the clam perfect through all this.

Any pro tips would be great!

Thanks
 

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http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f101/2007-exige-front-clam-removal-374361/#post5803041


from the link:
I ordered a small bore scope and validated that it was just tape holding on the center of the clam.

After I knew that, I worked the clam, just a little bit at a time back and forth, pulling up gently. Eventually the tape tore, with one part staying on the clam, and the other part staying on the frame support.

That's pretty much it, I just was careful not to try to really pull the thing off cause I didn't want to crack the clam.

I'm not sure if a tool would, but I think something thin and flat could help pry one side off. I would aim for the side of the tape that's attached to the frame and not the clam.. hope that helps.

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Discussion Starter #5
Success! My wife obtained a cake decorator spatula from wal mart for $5. Took 5 mins on each side of slowly slipping the spatula between clam and sticky pad and pop! Piece of cake!!

So what is the best thing to use to replace these pads ? Just reuse?

Thanks everyone!
 

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My front clam has always come off without any resistance. Either I never had sticky pads or they are past their service life. Either way, I've never had an issue with vibration or anything. I'd say forgo them in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My front clam has always come off without any resistance. Either I never had sticky pads or they are past their service life. Either way, I've never had an issue with vibration or anything. I'd say forgo them in the future.
Perhaps a correlation with others who have had the issue, my front clam has been off before by a dealer (Lotus Scottsdale) for the oil line fix. Maybe it is something that is added/replaced when a dealer does work under the clam? I dunno...was missing like 25% of the bolts so it wasn't the only oddity I discovered along the way. Have a nice hardware kit ready to replace it all anyway.
 

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Success! My wife obtained a cake decorator spatula from wal mart for $5. Took 5 mins on each side of slowly slipping the spatula between clam and sticky pad and pop! Piece of cake!!
Glad there is a solution, I'll be doing this job soon.

Which set of instructions did you use? Any notes to add?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Glad there is a solution, I'll be doing this job soon.

Which set of instructions did you use? Any notes to add?
I used these. They are Elise based but has good pics and clear steps (not sure what is happening on the Sands walkthrough but it also gets you there).

Print your instructions so you can take notes for each step, like how many shims fell out of which corner, which bolts were missing from the previous owner, and what needs replaced.

Take a lot of pics as you go for reinstall reference.

Place all the hardware in small baggies, one baggie per step of the printed instructions.

On the Exige, you access and disconnect the radio ant. from the passenger wheel arch, reaching beneath the wiper motor shroud. All of the instructions relating to removing the wiper motor shroud and removing the grill/trim does not pertain to the Exige and/or happen in a slightly different order. Eg wiper shroud comes off after the clam is removed.

The spine nuts are easy to get to and remove if you have a ratcheting box-end wrench. A socket will fit but will get bound-up once the nut backs off bolt.

Remove the turn signal bulbs, not the turn signals (accessible after you remove wheel liners and headlights).

My headlights were the newer style not often documented, and do not have a trim cover, just three bolts w/ large silver nuts that were easy to remove.

Headlights might require cutting zip-ties to separate the harness, but it is a neat zip-tie/body clip so just have some regular size zip ties ready for the install.

Buy a BOE hardware replacement kit for the reinstall process.

Don't forget to unsecure the oil line clamps from beneath the clam wheel arches and loosen the line.

There is an oil line running between the oil coolers, in the nose trim but behind the front the splitter area. It may be zip tied or connected to the clam so disconnect that before moving the clam.


I think that is about it. Instructions were pretty good though. Hope your clam isn't stuck like mine was but at least we know now it has an easy workaround. Just go slow. You will be applying a good bit of pressure to move the spatula. Bend the spatula a little if need be to better match the shape of the clam. Just make sure you don't deform the clam! Go slow and be purposeful, and take care when removing the spatula (aka clam removal tool) that it doesn't fly out and hit the clam elsewhere.
 

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I used these. They are Elise based but has good pics and clear steps (not sure what is happening on the Sands walkthrough but it also gets you there).

Print your instructions so you can take notes for each step, like how many shims fell out of which corner, which bolts were missing from the previous owner, and what needs replaced.

Take a lot of pics as you go for reinstall reference.

Place all the hardware in small baggies, one baggie per step of the printed instructions.

On the Exige, you access and disconnect the radio ant. from the passenger wheel arch, reaching beneath the wiper motor shroud. All of the instructions relating to removing the wiper motor shroud and removing the grill/trim does not pertain to the Exige and/or happen in a slightly different order. Eg wiper shroud comes off after the clam is removed.

The spine nuts are easy to get to and remove if you have a ratcheting box-end wrench. A socket will fit but will get bound-up once the nut backs off bolt.

Remove the turn signal bulbs, not the turn signals (accessible after you remove wheel liners and headlights.

My headlights were the newer style not often documented, and do not have a trim cover, just three bolts.

Buy a BOE hardware replacement kit for the reinstall process.

Don't forget to unsecure the oil line clamps from beneath the clam wheel arches and loosen the line.

Headlights might require cutting zip-ties to separate the harness, but it is a neat zip-tie/body clip so just have some regular size zip ties ready for the install.

There is an oil line running between the oil coolers, in the nose trim but behind the front the splitter area. It may be zip tied or connected to the clam so disconnect that first.


I think that is about it. Instructions were pretty good though. Hope your clam isn't stuck like mine was but at least we know now it has an easy workaround. Just go slow. You will be applying a good bit of pressure to move the spatula. Bend the spatula a little if need be. Just make sure you don't deform the clam! Go slow and be purposeful, and take care when removing the spatula (aka clam removal tool) that it doesn't fly out and hit the clam elsewhere.
Damn, Smoky for president!

Tell me about this BOE hardware kit. Is it this you're talking about?

https://www.boefab.com/collections/exterior-body/products/chassis-hardware-kit

I've also seen, somewhere, some new, better body shims. Can't find them at the moment. Did you just reuse the OEM's?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Damn, Smoky for president!

Tell me about this BOE hardware kit. Is it this you're talking about?

https://www.boefab.com/collections/exterior-body/products/chassis-hardware-kit

I've also seen, somewhere, some new, better body shims. Can't find them at the moment. Did you just reuse the OEM's?
For the moment I plan to just reuse these shims. They are shaped to hang on the bolts where they provide spacing. If you find a link let me know. Would like to see how they improved upon the shim. I might use a *small dab* of adhesive to keep them together during reinstall? Dunno yet.

Yes that's the kit. I haven't torn into it yet but it is a giant bag filled with smaller bags of organized and labeled high quality hardware that might possibly be enough for the entire car front to back. At some point I plan to go through all of the hardware baggies I've collected and swap everything I can.

I purchased a radiator, expansion tank, s/s brake lines, hvac resistor kit, and other maintenance goodies from BritishRacingGroup.com. They are VERY helpful and very responsive. Highly recommended.

And I purchased front and rear silicone hose set from ForgeMotorsports.com (blue!).
 

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I don't know if I mentioned in my AC rework thread, but I stuck the shims together with blue painters tape leaving a 'tab' that you can grab when reinstalling the shims. Tape is of insignificant thickness and keeps the shims together and helps keep them in place when tightening the bolts
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I don't know if I mentioned in my AC rework thread, but I stuck the shims together with blue painters tape leaving a 'tab' that you can grab when reinstalling the shims. Tape is of insignificant thickness and keeps the shims together and helps keep them in place when tightening the bolts
Good idea!
 

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I glued the stock ones in place with silicone rubber, super easy and cost nothing plus I used the same stack of shims the car came with. I found this helped with using the BOE hinge kit.
 

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...
Buy a BOE hardware replacement kit for the reinstall process.
...
Just a note, this is not a requirement and the "upgrade" is nicer looking hardware.

...
I've also seen, somewhere, some new, better body shims. Can't find them at the moment. Did you just reuse the OEM's?
Those shims are for the rear clam, you will not encounter them on the front. The radium shims for the rear are meant to be used rather than a clam hinge. In terms of better shims, i think you might be thinking of camber shims. Those have been "improved on" both by lotus themselves and the aftermarket.
 

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Those shims are for the rear clam, you will not encounter them on the front. The radium shims for the rear are meant to be used rather than a clam hinge. In terms of better shims, i think you might be thinking of camber shims. Those have been "improved on" both by lotus themselves and the aftermarket.
Yes, I was just saying that those were what I was thinking of originally. I have seen some nicer front clam shims too, just can't think of where. I don't remember how, but they stayed in place for sure, so there was no problem with them dropping out when you try to install the clam, or take it back off again.
 

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No one said it wasn't required either... just "buy this" with no real explanation. So I added a note.
 

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I used these. They are Elise based but has good pics and clear steps (not sure what is happening on the Sands walkthrough but it also gets you there).

Print your instructions so you can take notes for each step, like how many shims fell out of which corner, which bolts were missing from the previous owner, and what needs replaced.

Take a lot of pics as you go for reinstall reference.

Place all the hardware in small baggies, one baggie per step of the printed instructions.

On the Exige, you access and disconnect the radio ant. from the passenger wheel arch, reaching beneath the wiper motor shroud. All of the instructions relating to removing the wiper motor shroud and removing the grill/trim does not pertain to the Exige and/or happen in a slightly different order. Eg wiper shroud comes off after the clam is removed.

The spine nuts are easy to get to and remove if you have a ratcheting box-end wrench. A socket will fit but will get bound-up once the nut backs off bolt.

Remove the turn signal bulbs, not the turn signals (accessible after you remove wheel liners and headlights).

My headlights were the newer style not often documented, and do not have a trim cover, just three bolts w/ large silver nuts that were easy to remove.

Headlights might require cutting zip-ties to separate the harness, but it is a neat zip-tie/body clip so just have some regular size zip ties ready for the install.

Buy a BOE hardware replacement kit for the reinstall process.

Don't forget to unsecure the oil line clamps from beneath the clam wheel arches and loosen the line.

There is an oil line running between the oil coolers, in the nose trim but behind the front the splitter area. It may be zip tied or connected to the clam so disconnect that before moving the clam.


I think that is about it. Instructions were pretty good though. Hope your clam isn't stuck like mine was but at least we know now it has an easy workaround. Just go slow. You will be applying a good bit of pressure to move the spatula. Bend the spatula a little if need be to better match the shape of the clam. Just make sure you don't deform the clam! Go slow and be purposeful, and take care when removing the spatula (aka clam removal tool) that it doesn't fly out and hit the clam elsewhere.
I'm totally stumped with the headlights. I have the bolts out (2007 Exige S) and removed the clam bolt underneath. However, I cannot remove the light from the car. I just cannot disconnect the large plug tucked in front. Even if I do I don't see how it will come out as the wiring still connects to other areas. I assume, this must be disconnected to remove the clam as the there must be a connection attached to the chassis. Ugghh
 
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