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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Car is still available for the right price and to the right buyer who can care for it and maintain it.
Should be maintained like other "race cars" (1/2 day per week of maintenance if driven (hard) regularly)
I will PM you.
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Wheels are custom made, one off.
3-piece wheels made to order by Kodiak High performance racing rims, aluminum forged wheels

They are Kodiak Racing, but one-offs. The owner of Kodiak (Daryl Redlin) liked my project. We sent him drawings and a hub adapter and nut to work with. He did the engineering/CNC programming in his spare time over a period of two years.

Front 235/40 ZR-17
Rear 315/35 ZR-17
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Such a beauty! I wanted this car so bad in high school!! You've done so much... Hope it goes to someone who will continue the progression :)
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Since your car is so customized, will you provide tech support to the new owner?
Yes, by phone. Car comes with a copious documentation, notes, diagrams.
 

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<sigh> this 'extreme' Esprit is probably the only car that makes me regret living in California.

Many other states (NJ, TX, NY, IN) don't require smog inspections for cars older than 20 years.

California would never allow this Esprit on a public road legally and would surely seize the car if it were caught out on the road doing what it does best. :facepalm
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
<sigh> this 'extreme' Esprit is probably the only car that makes me regret living in California.

Many other states (NJ, TX, NY, IN) don't require smog inspections for cars older than 20 years.

California would never allow this Esprit on a public road legally and would surely seize the car if it were caught out on the road doing what it does best. :facepalm
Eddie, this car meets SMOG and is currently plated and driven on public roads in CA.
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I too would be interested in your serpentine belt conversion......

Nice project!

Jeff
What I did, I'm afraid, it won't be of much use to other owners. They'll need to come up with their own solution and here's why.

1. I no longer have a vacuum pump, nor a P/S pump as later cars used in that location.
2. I've deleted the AC as well, meaning I no longer need three belts. I only have the water pump and the alternator.
3. The alternator has been relocated lower for better access and it's pulley aligned with the water pump pulley to allow for a single belt.
4. I bought a universal serpentine belt pulley from Jones racing but had to have a custom mounting hub machined for it.
I verified all of the pulley alignments with a Gates laser alignment tool.

My system works, but I'd like to improve it. I still have to run far more belt tension than I'm comfortable with due to the limited wrap around the crank pulley. The remedy for this would be to add a small idler pulley inboard and above the cam belt tensioner pulley to greater wrap around the crank pulley, but there's no room to work out the precise location and mounting of the pulley with the motor in the car. So unless I have to remove the engine for some other reason, it's not going to happen. Running a lot of belt tension it doesn't slip, but that's not the proper solution.

Anyone wishing to convert to a serpentine arrangement retaining all of the original accessories would have to follow a similar procedure.
Points to consider:
1. The water pump is fixed and there's little room to change its pulley alignment rearwards. So I would start there with a universal serpentine water pump pulley (available in various diameters) from Jones Racing. Your machinist will need to machine the center bore of the pulley to the OE bore and remove some material from the ID of the pulley for it to seat properly on the pump hub. Jones provides a set of thin shims for fine adjustment but I didn't use them.
2. Use the water pump to set the belt longitudinal position, swap the pulleys of the vacuum pump/PS, AC compressor and alternator to serpentine pulleys. Alloy universal pulleys and shims are available from Jones Racing, steel OE pulleys are available from a variety of sources. The vacuum pump may need to use a crank pulley with a center adapter.
3. Align all of the pulleys with a Gates laser alignment tool maintaining the alignment within the tolerance specified in the instructions as a function of the distance between the pulleys. The alignment will be achieved by moving the accessories forward or back until they align with the water pump pulley.
4. The last step is to machine a crank pulley hub align the crank pulley with the water pump.
Once all of the pulleys are aligned then the belt length routing and need or not for a tensioner pulley can be worked out.

I'm not sure whether it can be done with the motor in the car, depending on whether an idler pulley is needed or not. The first routing I would attempt would be from the water pump pulley around the vacuum pump from the outside, as in the OE arrangement, then over the top of the crank pulley, then down around the AC compressor. Beyond that, it may be necessary to move the location of the AC compressor and alternator up or down and add one or two idler pulleys. A modern OE arrangement would use a spring loaded belt tensioner but that's not absolutely necessary. The belt can be tension with the vacuum pump and/or alternator.

You must have forgotten how much has changed in my engine compartment. All of my solutions were custom, based on previous decisions. Nothing is directly transferable to a stock car.

Bottom line is the motor probably has to come out or at least the gearbox so the engine can be lifted and moved back to provide more room to work, and it would best be done in the shop doing the machining, otherwise there's going to be a lot of time wasted with back and forth trial and error fitting.
 
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