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Discussion Starter #1
For those of you who are running factory front 2 pot calipers in the rear(all four corners) what pads are you using on the street? I’m currently using hawk hps pads all around but will need a pad with lesser friction coefficient. Curious to know what other people use and if there is a recommendation for a rear pad if I keep my hawk hps pads in the front.


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In my experience, pad compounds alone did not balance the brakes sufficiently with the same calipers all round. That being said, I'm only on track.

I would be sure to thoroughly test the ABS performance under several different conditions.

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I have that setup and use CL Brakes RC6 on front, RC5+ on rear … I was going to get the brake bias kit from BOE, but found this setup to be great on the track (and around town except for the screeching, squealing crazy noise :))
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I’m still running the factory 1 pot sliders in the rear and haven’t upgraded yet. I’m still interested in anyone who has this setup dialed in for street use too without using any bias bar/cage. I don’t want to lock up the rears or throw off the abs while street driving which will be the majority.


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I am running same pads all corners to be certain that the friction is the same. Using prop valve to reduce the rear braking. My temp front and rear are close the same. Running heavier front disc. The rear caliper uses smaller piston than oem 2 pods, but same design.

I stopped to use RC brake pads after 1.5 years. I was using performance friction before, but I did not like them since the friction is too low. I liked the RC but wear too much, and it sound that they are too much metallic, transferring too much heat to the caliper piston. And since my pistons are made in aluminum, the transfer heat too much heat to the brake oil, motul RBF660. I tried at the end of last summer hawk DTC60 with good result. I will see next summer. I am using HPS+ on street.
 

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This is std product and in USA you can buy wilwood stuff. You need only one, installed between the master and the abs module. On rear only. You need to be certain to avoid air insertion into the abs. Once installed, you can flow the oil from the caliper to the master by pushing the pistons into the caliper. More oil is welcome to reduce any risk of air into the abs.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I see that and damn your car build is next level amazing!

From the diagram is the rear line 22 or 23? I see your valve looks to be mounted on the passenger side. Was that the easiest or for better mounting purposes? Seems to me that the easiest would be on the drivers side right after the booster.




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I see that and damn your car build is next level amazing!

From the diagram is the rear line 22 or 23? I see your valve looks to be mounted on the passenger side. Was that the easiest or for better mounting purposes? Seems to me that the easiest would be on the drivers side right after the booster.




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Driver side is better for you. My ABS is located on the right side, and yours on the left.
 

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Oops, for the line, probably line 22. Look on the manual to confirm, on the master description.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Oops, for the line, probably line 22. Look on the manual to confirm, on the master description.
I’ll confirm the rear line with some further research. Thank you for your input! Your advise has guided me on the right path with my brake upgrade plans!


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Just to be more precise. The abs module is splitter into 2 sections, front and rear. By tracking the rear line, you will find the closest line from the master. It is the line to cut. By memory, the lotus flare are double flare in bulb shape. The prop will come with npt thread 1/8. You will need an adapter, typically inverted flare 3/8 in America. This means that you will need to flare some tube. Don’t remove the tube from the abs, use this one to connect to the prop valve. You will need to flare if your adapter is inverted. The other tube will need to be flare to suit flare on both end, m10 or m12 on master, bulb type, and inverted for the prop.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just to be more precise. The abs module is splitter into 2 sections, front and rear. By tracking the rear line, you will find the closest line from the master. It is the line to cut. By memory, the lotus flare are double flare in bulb shape. The prop will come with npt thread 1/8. You will need an adapter, typically inverted flare 3/8 in America. This means that you will need to flare some tube. Don’t remove the tube from the abs, use this one to connect to the prop valve. You will need to flare if your adapter is inverted. The other tube will need to be flare to suit flare on both end, m10 or m12 on master, bulb type, and inverted for the prop.
Thanks for the added info. I have the tools to make this happen along with some spare brake line. I’m no stranger to running new line and flaring ends. This should be a walk in the park.


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well, you can check here or check ebay. Seems like front caliper "deals" are harder to come by since the advent of this modification. When everyone agrees that the same caliper setup all around is too rear biased, it makes sense to start looking at the price diff between used 2 pot fronts and new , more properly sized calipers for the rear.
 

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Brandon, an important consideration is also what tires/sizes you are using as well. The stock non-LSS 175 front tires are pretty puny. If you go to a 205 sticky tire, that will allow the use of a more aggressive rear brake with little adverse effect.

I ran CL8's on the front and CL6 on the rear. It was fine. Your pedal travel will be longer than with the stock sliders, FWIW.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Related question, where can I get some front calipers for the rear?
This is how I got mine...

Go to eBay.co.uk

Currently, I see a 2 separate listings for a pair with rotors. Look to be from earlier years but look to be same specs. Maybe message them to see if they’ll sell just the calipers?


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@jds62f Makes sense. I will probably end up getting AP Racing calipers up front and move the front to the rear or just upgrading to an Exige first.
 

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@jds62f Makes sense. I will probably end up getting AP Racing calipers up front and move the front to the rear or just upgrading to an Exige first.
What is your application? (Why). There are race cars pushing double stock power that still have the 2 pot fronts.

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