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Alright, the reason why I'm posting this one is because all the engine knocking stories are for a 2005 and up with the Toyota engine. Since mine is a 2001, I have the S2 but with the rover engine and a 5 speed transmission. the engine is going threw oil (either burning it up or leaking). Then starts to knock, I but more oil in it then the knocking goes really down, but almost a whisper and barley hear it while Idling. Oily residue on the back bumper all way up too the tail lights, if that helps at all. But I can't find any oil spots on the ground when it sits for a while, I took a quick look at the engine (just got mine so still learning the car) but I'm not seeing any wet spots from the top. I would like to just fix it myself if its a quick fix so any help is many thanks!
 

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Most likely burning it from bad rings or piston, but could be valve stem seals. Do a compression and leak down test. If they are in spec the I would suspect a rod knock from the crank bearings. Hard to tell without hearing it. Good luck.


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Alright, the reason why I'm posting this one is because all the engine knocking stories are for a 2005 and up with the Toyota engine. Since mine is a 2001, I have the S2 but with the rover engine and a 5 speed transmission. the engine is going threw oil (either burning it up or leaking). Then starts to knock, I but more oil in it then the knocking goes really down, but almost a whisper and barley hear it while Idling. Oily residue on the back bumper all way up too the tail lights, if that helps at all. But I can't find any oil spots on the ground when it sits for a while, I took a quick look at the engine (just got mine so still learning the car) but I'm not seeing any wet spots from the top. I would like to just fix it myself if its a quick fix so any help is many thanks!

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It sounds like you bearings may be 'done'/kaput/"nicht so gut".
Did you run it down by 2-3 liters below full?

You could try 50W and see if that sows the consumption of oil.
 

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Keep in mind (with any engine), once the oil control rings are shot on the pistons, the engine starts internally bleeding oil quickly. This has the effect of reducing overall oil pressure (even if your guage is not telling you so). Other bearings, such as big and small end rod, crank, etc.. will be getting less lubrication and lead to knocks.
 

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Keep in mind (with any engine), once the oil control rings are shot on the pistons, the engine starts internally bleeding oil quickly. This has the effect of reducing overall oil pressure (even if your guage is not telling you so).
1) How does the oil ring lead to loss of pressure?
2) How does the gauge say one pressure and the actual pressure be different?


Other bearings, such as big and small end rod, crank, etc.. will be getting less lubrication and lead to knocks.
These knock are also present if the engine was starved from oil and the bearings destroyed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
when it got bad, I stopped the car and checked oil and it wasn't even on the stick, instantly got 3 quarts of mobile 1, 15-50W if i'm right, the car care center looked it up on post, and my manual doesn't say anything. It took 2 1/2 quarts then right in the center where it needed to be then the last 1/2 stuck it at the top of the good line, not a drop over. Then knocking now is so faint, i need to concentrate for it to hear it. Going to change oil today, and give it the normal tune up (spark plugs, air filt, etc.) Thanks for the help and hope it's nothing too bad.
 

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hey, I tried to sign up to SELOC and i haven't seen an email yet to confirm the profile, won't let me retry the sign up or anything
 

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Sounds like a major failure is immenent. Start looking at a rebuild now before you have major failure and can not save the engine. Sorry for the bad news but once she starts knocking it is time for a major fix. Do it before it fails and you can save most major internal components!
 

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"Knock" is likely a rod bearing which was likely caused by low oil... which most likely came from the lack of valve seals which allowed the oil to blow out the tail pipe and put all the soot and oily rear of the car.

As another poster recommended, get thee to a shop (tow) ASAP, rod knock if allowed to continue will lead to major failure.

Cheers,
Kiyoshi
 
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