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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all
I am looking a purchasing a 2006 Elise that has 15k miles. A local lotus shop (not a dealer) did a PPI. They commented that the 3 gear syncro was sticky and suggested a gear box flush. Does any one have any thoughts on this. Unfortunately the vehicle is cross country from me and I have not personally driven it.
 

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07 Exige S
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Since you just throwing it out there. If everything else checks out or is indicative of a solid unit. I would prob continue considering it. I have done a ton of modifications to help shifting, to include better fluids. I still think the syncros are just not great in these cars. I learn how fast each gear wants to be engaged and I accept it as a mechanical limitation. I simply shift slower in some gears.. good fluids and better, more solid action will certainly be noticeable improvements and as the addage goes you can spend as much and make the action as good as you want. I would flush it yourself if mechanically inclined or have your local persons get on it. will give you time to decide what fluids etc you want. I loved the MT-90, Synchomesh coctail immensely, but I just go with Motus 300 something now. Either are worlds better than the oem stuff most likely in there right now. Oh yeah, and it's very easy to do... You could get it done first time you have it on ramps with shear panel off. ( Just make certain you have the fill plug off before opening the drain plug...)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Since you just throwing it out there. If everything else checks out or is indicative of a solid unit. I would prob continue considering it. I have done a ton of modifications to help shifting, to include better fluids. I still think the syncros are just not great in these cars. I learn how fast each gear wants to be engaged and I accept it as a mechanical limitation. I simply shift slower in some gears.. good fluids and better, more solid action will certainly be noticeable improvements and as the addage goes you can spend as much and make the action as good as you want. I would flush it yourself if mechanically inclined or have your local persons get on it. will give you time to decide what fluids etc you want. I loved the MT-90, Synchomesh coctail immensely, but I just go with Motus 300 something now. Either are worlds better than the oem stuff most likely in there right now. Oh yeah, and it's very easy to do... You could get it done first time you have it on ramps with shear panel off. ( Just make certain you have the fill plug off before opening the drain plug...)
Thank you for your reply. The rest of the car checks out fine.
 

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See #5

Note to new Elise & Exige Owners:

1. These cars have large (i.e. dangerous) blind spots. Multivex mirrors are NLA, but RLS (Really Light Stuff) offers very good tape-on replacements.

2. The horns are way too weak (quiet). There’s an inverse relationship: smaller the car, louder the horn needs to be.

Get something such as a Stebel Nautilus.

Stebel: “HONK! LOOK OUT!”

Remove the stock horn; replace with louder.

(I drive with my finger on the horn button in any traffic. Iffy situations, my headlights are on.

Stay to the left of traffic, i.e. avoid passing on the right if you can.

Stop way behind trucks, SUVs, etc. Some have blindspots >50’. )

3. The early cars came with misaimed and dim headlights. If you drive at night, convert to HIDs. While better than stock halogen bulbs are available, HIDs throw more light. Stay around 5000k. As of this writing LEDs are not as good.

4. Ensure your car has had the work required by the recall for oil line fittings done. You could lose an engine and/or spin in your own oil.

5. Transmission:

The best transmission lube I’ve found is Redline MT-90 plus a little Power Punch Extreme Gear Oil Additive. (Note that it takes two changes to get rid of the previous lube.)

a) Early cars have wobbly shift towers. Look up Stan’s Mod (bolt and spacer; http://www.billswebspace.com/ShifterReinforcement.pdf) and

And, use:
Re-Enforcer long thru bolts that terminate under car and tie down the tower:
https://www.inokinetic.com/lotus/re-enforcer?category=Transmission

These (lube, mods) make a huge change in shifting.

6. As per some engine builders on these sites, wait AT LEAST 20 -35 minutes aftercoolant has reached full operating temp before engaging cam switchover.

For street cars, consider removing one or both oil coolers. Some cover them. Oil doesn’t get hot enough on street, leading to cam wiping.

I use Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel oil. 85k miles and fine, but one is not a useful example.

7. Rear toe-links can loosen and break with disastrous results. You can check tq periodically, or use Nordlock washers. Best is conversion to better engineered brace, such as BOE’s InoKinetic’s for two examples.

8. While under the car with panel off, look around for hoses and wires chafing their way to failure. That’s how this was found:

9. The stock radiators are prone to leaking where the end caps meet the metal part. Keep an eye on this. Most of us use single-pass all-aluminum radiators.

10. When your wheel well liner comes loose, skip the lame plastic rivet and use Well-Nuts instead.

11. Life will be better if you disable the auto-arming alarm function on the earlier cars. You won’t have to press a button to start the car. Instructions:

Remote Key Fob, Immobilizer & Misc Alarm Programming

12. These cars cannot be left off a Battery Tender for weeks at a time. Unless dead batteries are a particular joy of yours. Buy one right away. There are numerous threads here about which ppl use and like.

You NEED a digital multimeter (voltmeter) to work on modern cars. Handy around house too. Get one this week.

13, Some on this site are a bit obsessed with hockey pucks for lifting the car. Don’t use these. Too hard and slippery, generally, and too small a surface area. Use a piece of wood, as your hero does.

14. If you are fooling with sparkplugs, remember to slather those tubes in dielectric grease (prevents shorts).

15. Visit the Uber Thread

**Elise/Exige Uberpost READ THIS. Everything you need...

16. Most parts on the car are made by Toyota and others, so buying things like a/c compressors, engine parts, etc. is wildly expensive when purchased thru Lotus.
Toyota dealers, auto parts stores are way less expensive.

17. The soft high-grip tires on most of our cars lose much of that grip when temperatures drop below 50 F. I know of too many ppl who spun their cars when not remembering this. I use hi-performance all-seasons.

Note that many summer tires cannot even be stored in temps below 20 F.

-----

Plus, “How to bleed brakes”:

How to Bleed Brakes


How to Search:

For future reference: Don't use the search on this site. Simply use Google and end the search text with "site:lotustalk.com". E.g.
Transmission Fluid change what bolt site:lotustalk.com
no space betweensite:lotustalk.com
 

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My pleasure. Good luck.
 

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IMHO, the 2006 is one of the best years to get if you want a car to do some things later. The ECU is the newer style with DBW, which Fastworks has a bit better control on for later supercharging. The bumperettes in later versions aren't there. Sticky synchro doesn't bother me too much unless that 15k miles is ALL track, it probably gets resolved with fluid. If not, transmissions can be fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
IMHO, the 2006 is one of the best years to get if you want a car to do some things later. The ECU is the newer style with DBW, which Fastworks has a bit better control on for later supercharging. The bumperettes in later versions aren't there. Sticky synchro doesn't bother me too much unless that 15k miles is ALL track, it probably gets resolved with fluid. If not, transmissions can be fixed.
Thank you for the reply
 
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