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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone,
So I took some time to search this forum and google before posted and I found this.

dstevens said:
Code:
Pin 2005 2008 Change
A1 29,P Bat Power
A2 206,B GND 206,B GND -
A3 25,G Fused Ign 29,P Bat Power A1
A4 110,NY Alternator A10
A5 25,G Gauge Power A3
A6 179,PK Alarm Light B7
A7 430,U CANH C1
A8 76,RY Rear Fog 76,RY
A9 86,UW Main Beam 86,UW Main Beam -
A10 110,NY Alternator 402,RO Illum C5
A11 51,GR Indicator 51,GR Indicator -
A12 45,GW Indicator 45,GW Indicator -
B1 113,BW Brake 113,BW Brake -
B2
B3 138,BY ABS 138,BY ABS -
B4 167,BP Seatbelt 167,BP Seatbelt -
B5
B6 98,RO Lights 98,R0 Lights -
B7 179,PK Alarm 430,U CANL C7
B8 118,GR Fuse C3 118,GR Backlight -
B9 105,RW Trip switch 105,RW Trip switch -
B10
B11 342,PW Doors 342,PW Doors -
B12 222,BP SRS 222,BP SRS -
C1 428,R CANH
C5 402,RO Illum
C7 430,U CANL


Can anyone confirm if this is the correct pinout to the bottom connector seen here: http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm270/VisualEchos/for sale/VEP_6950.jpg

I took my old unit out because it was not working and I am not having to get the unit powered back up to get the miles on the unit, I have a stable powersupply I use for eletroinic work and was planning on putting 12v gnd 12v on point 1,2,3 (Reading the top pin left to right [these have the male pins]). I'm hoping that will be enough to power the unit and show the miles on the screen to retrieve the current set of miles on the car.

Can anyone confirm this?
Thank you!!

Other useful links I've found but did not contain the information:
https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/06-ecu-pinout.jpg <-- for EMC not cluster side
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/173851-1/?qs=sNHRnkES17UGItBW6AZL/Q== on of the connectors
AiM MX2E - Technical Specifications <-- my current cluster but pinout has changed and unable to find pins for the harness
 

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If you look at the plug, the first and last pins on both rows are numbered. The connector on the board itself should be numbered as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you look at the plug, the first and last pins on both rows are numbered. The connector on the board itself should be numbered as well.
Thank you!! I don't see the 'C' pins but now that you've pointed it out I do see A 1-12 and B 1-12 on the board inside one of the black connectors.
From reading the schematic, It should be
Pin 1 = 12VDC
Pin 2 = GND

and that should power it up, correct?
Thanks for the pointers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Come on guy, just read the pinout as it’s self explanatory. A1 is battery power, A2 is ground, and A3 is fused ignition. If those are connected and you turn the key to on, the dash should power up. ECU stores a certain value for the mileage it has collected.
I'm not being lazy, just triple checking as my mileage is stored on this and don't want to make a misstep.
If I understand you correctly, +12vdc to Pin A1 which is the first pin on the right hand side top row.
0V GND to A2 which is one pin to the left of that.
+12vdc to A3 (One more to the left then A2), and that should boot the 1202LCD screen with the millage correct?
Thanks again for chiming in!

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I'm not being lazy, just triple checking as my mileage is stored on this and don't want to make a misstep.
If I understand you correctly, +12vdc to Pin A1 which is the first pin on the right hand side top row.
0V GND to A2 which is one pin to the left of that.
+12vdc to A3 (One more to the left then A2), and that should boot the 1202LCD screen with the millage correct?
Thanks again for chiming in!

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You’re way beyond my scope of work cracking that thing open. If you apply power to it, and it’s not working. Then it’s toast. If your car is pre 2010 then there is no law obligating you to keep track of miles. Just do away with that stock dash, grab you one of the plug and play ones, and transfer your miles over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You’re way beyond my scope of work cracking that thing open. If you apply power to it, and it’s not working. Then it’s toast. If your car is pre 2010 then there is no law obligating you to keep track of miles. Just do away with that stock dash, grab you one of the plug and play ones, and transfer your miles over.
Thank you, Umm no not yet just want to confirm before I push more then 20-50ma, I can control it from my PSU, Just need to confirm the lines are correct and I can open the Amps on my powersupply to get it to crank up. I assume with that screen and the rest it may only need about 100-200MA to get going but before I push it I want to double check.

Thanks for chiming in again, Hopefully someone else here can confirm before I have to hook it up.

Got it, I purchased an Aim replacement because mine was failing
LOTAC055871$ 1,491.00 LOTUS DIGITAL-DASH 'AIM'
LOTAC055681$ 80.00LINK HARNESS - AIM IP PACK

I thought there was a requirement I sent them a picture but maybe that's only for clusters that are actually working.
Thanks Ill contact them and see if I can just sign an affidavit to get it going.
 

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Thank you, Umm no not yet just want to confirm before I push more then 20-50ma, I can control it from my PSU, Just need to confirm the lines are correct and I can open the Amps on my powersupply to get it to crank up. I assume with that screen and the rest it may only need about 100-200MA to get going but before I push it I want to double check.

Thanks for chiming in again, Hopefully someone else here can confirm before I have to hook it up.

Got it, I purchased an Aim replacement because mine was failing
LOTAC055871$ 1,491.00 LOTUS DIGITAL-DASH 'AIM'
LOTAC055681$ 80.00LINK HARNESS - AIM IP PACK

I thought there was a requirement I sent them a picture but maybe that's only for clusters that are actually working.
Thanks Ill contact them and see if I can just sign an affidavit to get it going.
Atlanta Speedometer does repair clusters. Maybe they could just pull your mileage if you have no success or get it repaired and sell it.
 

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I'am a little bit late! Sorry....

You have to put +12V on A1 and A3. GND on A2. This is correct, I've done it like 1 month ago.

I think you need about 300 mA, it drain quite much current for the backlighting and all.

Do you still have your cluster disassembled? I would be more than happy, if you could make 3-4 measurements for me! I would like to know if we can reach TP5, TP6, TP11 und TP12 from the backside, and if TP5 is GND and TP6 VCC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'am a little bit late! Sorry....

You have to put +12V on A1 and A3. GND on A2. This is correct, I've done it like 1 month ago.

I think you need about 300 mA, it drain quite much current for the backlighting and all.

Do you still have your cluster disassembled? I would be more than happy, if you could make 3-4 measurements for me! I would like to know if we can reach TP5, TP6, TP11 und TP12 from the backside, and if TP5 is GND and TP6 VCC.
Not a problem I am seeing this now Alcantor. Yes, I have it disasm. I can take the measurements for you. Ill be on here early this week to report back! Thanks for the info Alcantor!! mucho grass =]
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I was able to locate TP 5,11,12 but not 6. All found TP is accessible from the back via a solder pad but I don't have a continuity tester on me to confirm 100% but it looks very promising after checking back and forth a few times visually, I shined a right light behind the PCB and used the shadow to confirm the pad in the back.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'am a little bit late! Sorry....

You have to put +12V on A1 and A3. GND on A2. This is correct, I've done it like 1 month ago.

I think you need about 300 mA, it drain quite much current for the backlighting and all.

Do you still have your cluster disassembled? I would be more than happy, if you could make 3-4 measurements for me! I would like to know if we can reach TP5, TP6, TP11 und TP12 from the backside, and if TP5 is GND and TP6 VCC.
See above. :)
 

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My big plan is to retrofit a 2008 black instrument cluster, the variable traction control, the cup260 map and add flexfuel to my 2007 car.

I could already re-program a black instrument cluster to display KMH instead of MPH on the LCD and change the odometer. But if I do ever re-intall the white dashboard after a while, I wanted to know how to program the white dashboard too.

That is why I needed those points. I didn't have time to test them yet, I was very busy. I have a scratch on the glass of my black instrument cluster and I need to polish it, then I need to order the KMH gauge face.
 

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I've made the assumption that my 2007 white cluster would have the same board as yours, but when I've disassembled it on Sunday to test the points, I had the bad surprise to discover another board:confused:

Thank you anyway for your help! But for now I will leave it as is.

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Anyways, if someone read this and have a good picture of the other side of this board, please PM me! Because I really don't like to pull the needles out....
 
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