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shay2nak
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is that the stock IC? looks pretty tall.
 

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shay2nak
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check out this pic of an Exige S whose rear clam was fettled... Looks to me you guys can go even further to open it up... maybe where i circled and maybe on the inside of the opening there's a few more mm to grind away?
 

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shay2nak
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Andy are you going to order the RLS intercooler? Just wondering if you did and if so, it would be interesting to run the same tests on it.
 

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shay2nak
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wow nice work. I guess there's an added bonus by having the catch cans installed.

also, the shift point graph...where you show the RLS arriving at the given speed faster. That's because your engine has more HP, correct?
 

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shay2nak
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thanks, catch can yes, but note vented to atmostphere type was used here. The other type which claims to catch most of the oil still passes the hot gas back into the intake channel. On speed arrival: yes that would be the inference.
ah, I have the the cans that run the line back into the intake. I wonder if it would make any difference. I suspect the hot oil would make much more difference that just hot air??

what's the X-axis on the gear graph? time? what's each division?
 

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shay2nak
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the fans have to be on constantly right?
 

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shay2nak
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Finally fettled da mail slot today and cut down the bottom edge of the thick gasket. Amazing to see the difference. The rear passenger bolt was a bitch to tighten. Was easy to remove it...WTF.

But so far the following appears to help considerably with engine bay temps and air charge temps:

1. Opened mail slot
2. Sealed IC Shroud
3. RLS IC
4. Bumper removal with VonHep
5. Heat wrap exhaust pipe from header to muffler

For track I plan to drop in a ceramic coated no-Cat pipe.
don't forget about...

6. Remove the grill from each side intake.
 

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shay2nak
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What passenger bolt? You mean for the hard top?
yeah, the bolt for the hardtop right behind the passenger seat.
 

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shay2nak
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Exhaust duct?
 

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shay2nak
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Been away for a week. Glad to see this! Nice work Andy! :up:

IAT was still 157 with the additional piping?! I wonder what normal street driving would yeild, but 95 is damn hot to be running the car out even out on the street.

Canyon driving will yield high 90s IAT and with accel bursts IAT will be around 100-110. It would be nice to have IAT be around <90. Coolant temp is around 182.

I'm pretty sure putting a heatshield between the engine and intercooler will help also.
 

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shay2nak
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damn that is a huge difference. I still think you should dump the stock IC. That thing is such a featherweight a lit match underneath it would cause it to heatsoak. rotfl
 

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shay2nak
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...and remember you guys (Thomas & Andy) are both running different intercoolers.

Every little bit helps... the thing is, with all of the ducts in the world, if you are sitting in traffic with no airflow your intercooler is heating up. Fans help there where no ducting can. Of course, the better the ducts flow, the faster you will cool your intercooler after you are stuck in traffic and get moving.
That's where I believe a heatshield will help. A lot of air is flowing through the intercooler now, but it's still sitting in an environment which is hot. Mainly heat from under the intercooler. What was your IAT like on that drive?

I logged an hour of street driving today, and IAT temps were ridiculously lower that those logged for even a tight, twisty road course. Average IAT was 92F, and maximum was 117F... not worth worrying about at all.

EDIT: Ambient temps were about 76F today
I get the about the same temps with just a fettled S roof. Typically 95-97. I was thinking they would be lower, but 92 is still not bad actually. I was hoping to see around 10* reduction. I hooked up my OBD to my TSX and that has a constant IAT of 87.
 

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shay2nak
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I didn't know you guys are already using heatshields. What does Brent's intercooler look like?
 

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shay2nak
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that's what I'd guess. Maybe even a raised section of a couple inches front and back. remember that mspaint drawing I posted a while back? What's a good thickness? 3-5mm?
 

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shay2nak
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All i know is that the RLS intercooler with 3 inlet shroud and heatshield have shown by my monitoring to operate at lower IAT than stock and recovers quite fast after hard accelerations. And I gained +10whp/+10wtq when I first installed the intercooler and doesn't heatsoak nearly as bad as the stock unit.
 

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shay2nak
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Again, nobody is saying the RLS IC is bad or that it will hurt you. But there's other things that need to be changed before you'll see an improvement from the RLS IC. Just dropping in an RLS IC without doing any other mods first will be like putting a fart can on the car and saying how much more HP you can feel.
I beg to differ. I could actually feel the added torque from the RLS intercooler. Look at this dyno of before/after RLS intercooler. Ignore the 2 higher HP curves. Look at the RED one (after) and the BLUE one (before). Same dyno, same preperations, etc. I posted my findings like 3 or 4 pages ago when this thread came back to life. This was with the original Gotham tune.
 

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shay2nak
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And did your dyno runs have air flowing over the IC? If so, then it doesn't have anything to do with what we are discussing.

I also find it very difficult to believe you could "feel" a 3% increase in torque. 3% is easily within the margin of error for most calculations not done on a dyno, butt dyno's not withstanding. I know some fellas that can swear they feel the torque increase with their Type-R stickers, too... but we all know how that goes. But maybe your butt-dyno is more sensetive than most people, so I'll give you the benefit of the doubt on that one.

At the end of the day thermodynamics are thermodynamics. You can't change them. If you want to burn money on stuff, I'm totally fine with that. I completely support your right to throw money at problems left and right. Spend $15,000 on 2lbs of weight reduction and 1hp increase. Lord knows I've wasted money on many-a-car chasing rainbows and the need to believe that you didn't just spend $3000 for little to no improvement is strong. I've been there. I understand. This is like trying to argue with an audiophile about how wooden knobs and $10,000 power conditioners make the sound "richer" and "fuller."

I just have a problem when others entice people to waste their time and money on something that is simply not possible through all known laws of physics and thermodynamics. Lets stick to the known sciences and not woo-woo magical beans and psychic airflow.

I've said what I have to say here on this subject and I don't want this to turn into a flame war, so I stand by my statements and believe they stand on their own merits at this point. The rest is up to the reader.
No, but we had a small fan blowing onto the intercooler each time I went to the dyno. Engine lid propped and a fan sitting in front of the trunk blowing at the back of the IC. You may not believe it, but I could feel the difference. I can also feel the weight difference in the car when I fill it up with gas. Not a full tank, but 5 or 6 gallons each time. 10whp in this car is almost like 20whp in a regular car because of its light weight.
 
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