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that's what I'd guess. Maybe even a raised section of a couple inches front and back. remember that mspaint drawing I posted a while back? What's a good thickness? 3-5mm?
Yep, this is virtually identical to the one that you drew back in the day...

One thing about the thickness: anything more than 1mm is putting the intercooler very close to hitting the strut setup and/or the engine hatch.

Mine is almost as thin as an aluminum can... less than 1/2 a mm to be certain. It is meant to be used with that fancy gold satellite heat shielding. Too pricey to use in a product that is meant to be sold. (I can imagine the complaints already... LOL)

The nice thing about the thicker shields others have done is that you won't hear any resonance / rattling / vibrations coming from the heat shield. Mine makes its presence known at certain RPM's.
 

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I have just had an Ally heat shield made in 1.5mm thick, should be more than enough to stop radiant heat and does not weigh to much ;-)

cheers

Boothy

That's probably about ideal... yours is probably rigid enough not to buzz at certain RPM's. Hopefully you have the motor mount inserts so that your engine doesn't flop around too much.
 

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2008 Lotus Exige-S 240
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Heat barrier

Picture of my ghetto version - http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f160/intercooler-heat-shield-radiant-heat-barrier-64460/ it does not resonate, I also added 1/8" rubber washers to insulate the shield from the mounting brackets. I have an RLS and honestly it already touched the clam lid sometimes (before installing motor mount inserts).. it has not gotten any worse.

The sheet aluminum was like <$5. I have nothing to cut it so I bought the size that I would use and bent it over my workbench. Yup. High tech. The gold reflect material however was almost $40 for a roll, and I used about 7/8th of it. Not sure it works any better with or without it.. however the sticky side is a header wrap kind of material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #485 · (Edited)
DashWare Video

This is a video created using ChaseCam's DashWare... I've been able to integrate the ChaseCam video, Traqmate data, and OBD-II data, and display the data as live gauges. The four gauges next to the tach and speedo are (from top right, clockwise): Spark Advance, Engine Coolant Temp, Intake Air Temp, and Mass Air Flow.

<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=5355761&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=5355761&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/5355761">DashWare Video Composite, Streets Of Willow Springs</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1964001">apk919</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

EDIT: Replaced the YouTube link with a Vimeo link... much better quality
 

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Incredible. That's what should have been available for our dash to begin with. It would be nice to be able to pick the info you want displayed. Your car is extremely quiet. Is it still the stock exhaust?
 

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Discussion Starter · #487 ·
Incredible. That's what should have been available for our dash to begin with. It would be nice to be able to pick the info you want displayed. Your car is extremely quiet. Is it still the stock exhaust?
I agree... sometimes I'm tempted to yank out the stock cluster and go for a programmable one... but so far I've resisted. And yes, stock exhaust.
 

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That's probably about ideal... yours is probably rigid enough not to buzz at certain RPM's. Hopefully you have the motor mount inserts so that your engine doesn't flop around too much.

Mine is very similar to EricH's in design,however my 45deg is at the rear to deflect heat from the supercharger, I stopped the leading edge just past the intercooler so I can still get to the oil filler with ease. Its also slightly wider by the looks of it, 580mm to be exact :)
Its great to see lots of minds coming up with similar ideas, shame things are so quiet this side of the pond.

Boothy
 

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Just thought I would drag this to the top again as I would like to try something similar to APK's design but as I am going to do it slightly different I thought I would get peoples thoughts.
I am going to keep my std side pods and rather than go into the duct that is connected to the car (and the ball ache of removing it etc) I am going to go into either side of the duct connected to the cooler.
I run the Forge intercooler (dont think you guys have it over here) which uses the same duct as the Lotus cup cooler, going into the sides will direct the air flow onto the cooler but will also allow my hose to take a slightly less restrictive route. The issue being that I will only be able to use a maximum 51mm (2") hose connector at this point.
My side vents (std type) will allow me to use up to 63mm id (2 1/2") hose located up tight at the top of the vent (this will stop me restricting cooling air to the engine bay to much).
So my question is am I better to use 63mm hose and put a silicone reducer where it enters the duct or just use 52mm hose all the way?
I am guessing better to use the bigger hose as it will collect more air and the venturi should speed up the flow onto the intercooler, my only worry is that the speeded up air could force back the air from the roof scoop?
Obviously this was prooven not the case on APK's car and my theory is that the air behind the cooler will be lower pressure anyway so it should all just go through the cooler, I just thought I would ask the collective before I start chopping :)

Boothy

p.s. I am also thinking that the roof air is venturied anyway so it probably would of gone the other way on APK's car if there was going to be a problem.
 

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So this was an interesting thread! What was the final outcome?
 

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He's on fire!
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The final outcome is available for sale on RLS's website...
 

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I know that but it just died abruptly!
 

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Is there any drawback to dremeling out the rear clam part a bit to offer a few more square inches of airflow from the scoop? I noticed that there's a lip on the rear clam where it mates to the roof that looks superfluous and I was going to remove it... I know it's not much, but given the constriction, it would seem every little bit would help.
 

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Is there any drawback to dremeling out the rear clam part a bit to offer a few more square inches of airflow from the scoop? I noticed that there's a lip on the rear clam where it mates to the roof that looks superfluous and I was going to remove it... I know it's not much, but given the constriction, it would seem every little bit would help.
There's no drawback, but its a drop of water in an ocean of a problem.
 

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