If it's done the same as the Exige clams it's bonded in with some rubber sticky material. I would assume it's the same and you can't just unbolt it.This is a long shot, but does anyone know how to remove the radiator exit grills on 2011 models? On the 2011 Elises, they are mesh and it seems they are mounted in a different manner compared to the earlier cars.
Thanks man. It looks like this is something that isn't worth pursuing unless I need to take the clam off for a legitimate reason. I may just wait until I replace the radiator, which is something I have on my to-do list for the next year. Bummer though.Are you ready for this?
A couple of months ago I broke down and committed to having the "driving lights" put on my 2011 Elise R by my Lotus dealer who always does great work. The mechanic made the assumption that it couldn't be any different than the older models.
Au contraire mon fraire!
The clam had to come off. I did note that the mesh had screws holding it in place but had to be accessed from the inside and they were glued as well.
Well the lights are installed and my wallet is a little lighter than anticipated but isn't that the way we roll? lol
Wish you luck!
Figures. They glue the frames, why not the grills.From British Racing Group:
"I spoke with Lotus. You will need to remove the entire front clam. The grill must be removed from the underside and then reapplied with adhesive unlike the earlier cars which could have the plastic grills removed once the access panels are taken out. This is a 2 day process due to the drying required on the adhesive."
Lotus. Making things harder to do rather than easier.
I removed part of the license plate close out on the rear clam to modify the hold down arrangement. The close out is bonded to the clam with the rubbery black goo they use everywhere, including all the mesh on my 2011 Elise SC. I cut the rubber with a very sharp blade to separate the parts, then used a Dremel with a small (about 1/2" diameter) sanding drum to remove most of the remainder from the fiberglass. The sandpaper rolled it off pretty easily. Some Prep-Sol on a terry cloth rag removed the last traces from the fiberglass. (Prep-Sol is a degreaser used before painting.)Reviving a dead thread. I have a similar issue on one of the grates to the OP. Does anyone know the best way to release the glue that holds the mesh to the fiberglass? Solvents tend to be a bad thing for fiberglass and the Non-VOC paint so I am thinking that there is another method for the (black) glue removal.