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2015 Evora
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Hi all. New to the Lotus marque having only having purchased a Evora a few weeks ago I unfortunately had the clutch hydraulic system fail within the first two weeks of ownership. I didn't see any mention of this issue in any of my pre-purchase investigations but once you search "Evora Clutch" it shows its ugly head. Anyway I am not grumpy at all about this but thought I would share a couple of points that may help a "DIY Mechanic" that would do the work them selves. There is quite a bit of talk about the fluid temp getting to hot and the fluid breaking down after a relatively short period and possibly affecting the master cylinder. My car is a 2015 car with the plastic Master Cylinder and heat insulated fluid line

To combat this I have
1: Used DOT 5.1 Fluid (NOT 5.0) which has a much higher boiling point
2: Put an extension on the slave cylinder with a "push button valve" on the end of it so the system can be blead very easily and often. It is a PIG to blead without this. This does require a bit of modification to the S/C but you can get the general idea from the picture below. You cant see the valve on the end of the rubber tube. You have to drill and tap a larger thread into where the bleed nipple usually is to allow this extension to be connected
3: Insulate the above extension

1260736

4: Discovered that getting the S/C bolted back on its a PIG of a job. I ended up making a long stud that I lighted screwed into the gearbox and then placed the S/C over this stud. This held the S/C in the right place which allowed me to get the 2nd bolt in easily. Once that bolt was in I removed the stud by hand and put in the second S/C bolt.
5: I removed the front clam which is really easy (Im sure its covered elsewhere) and replaced the plastic M/C with the Wilwood one from GRP. The plastic M/C is not a serviceable item so I cut it open to see why it wasn't pumping fluid and nothing really stood out. There was a fair bit of crud in there which looks like fluid that had broken down but the seal itself and M/C walls looked fine. Unsure on that one. Replacement of the M/C is easy however in my case the fluid line that came with the kit was for a left hand drive car which was unfortunately about 100mm to short for a Right Hand Drive car. This wouldn't have been a issue except I was trying to do it in the middle of 4 weeks of "National Isolation" in New Zealand due to Corona Virus and I couldn't leave home.

Im not allowed out of the house so I haven't yet drive it but it all seams to work fine with normal feel etc but the one thing I cant check is if there is any fluid temperature problems that I have introduced with these modifications. Will update post once I have tested it. Lotus. Lots of Testing usually significant. Mark
 

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Welcome to the forum and congrats on your purchase!

Sorry to hear that you already had issues. There's tons of info on clutch/ master issues on the forum. It appears that normal yearly fluid flush/bleeds helps quite a bit to avoid issues. Many of us use Castrol SRF React with a wet boiling point of 518°F and a dry boiling point of 590°F.

I do like the bleed extension you added. A similar extension was discussed a while ago with a speed bleeder on the end, but none of us could come up with an easily available hose that would fit ( basically remove bleeder and have an extension that would screw back in place- they are available for other, more common vehicles). I don't recall anyone discussing modifying the slave to mount one. So, props to you. And, thanks for the write up!

Hope you have better luck and many trouble free miles going forward!! (y)
 

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Hmm, I hadn't considered drilling out the existing bleeder hole to mount a larger banjo bolt, but I'm glad to see it works. I have a spare slave cylinder sitting on my bench that I could retrofit and swap in during my next flush.

Glad to hear you sorted out the hydraulics early on in your ownership. Welcome, and thanks for the contribution.
 

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2015 Evora
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Discussion Starter #4
Photo of "Push Button Valve" I was going to place it somewhere that I didn't have to remove the undertray to use it but decided it would be a bit more protected here. Exhaust is not as close as it looks
1260738
 

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The bleeder is a great idea.
When I put in a new master cylinder I didnt pre bleed it first and it was the biggest PITA to get bled. Especially by yourself. This would have helped!
 

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Nicely done. I have something similar on a Triumph spitfire because you have to dismantle most of the interior to get to the clutch slave cylinder. I'm tempted to do something similar on my Evora 400. Thanks for posting.
 

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Hi MarkJohnAsh,

I just purchased a ''new'' Evora S 2015 from the dealership.
It's a 2015 model (5 years old) with only 80km (50 miles). There is no warranty available.

I drove the car about 500km (310miles) and I noticed some type of clutch burning smell and/or rubber smell coming from the top driver side vent heat extractor hose. (Driver side: if you are in America/Canada... so left side).
Before driving the vehicle again, I am planning to change all fluid (incl
Hi all. New to the Lotus marque having only having purchased a Evora a few weeks ago I unfortunately had the clutch hydraulic system fail within the first two weeks of ownership. I didn't see any mention of this issue in any of my pre-purchase investigations but once you search "Evora Clutch" it shows its ugly head. Anyway I am not grumpy at all about this but thought I would share a couple of points that may help a "DIY Mechanic" that would do the work them selves. There is quite a bit of talk about the fluid temp getting to hot and the fluid breaking down after a relatively short period and possibly affecting the master cylinder. My car is a 2015 car with the plastic Master Cylinder and heat insulated fluid line

To combat this I have
1: Used DOT 5.1 Fluid (NOT 5.0) which has a much higher boiling point
2: Put an extension on the slave cylinder with a "push button valve" on the end of it so the system can be blead very easily and often. It is a PIG to blead without this. This does require a bit of modification to the S/C but you can get the general idea from the picture below. You cant see the valve on the end of the rubber tube. You have to drill and tap a larger thread into where the bleed nipple usually is to allow this extension to be connected
3: Insulate the above extension

View attachment 1260736
4: Discovered that getting the S/C bolted back on its a PIG of a job. I ended up making a long stud that I lighted screwed into the gearbox and then placed the S/C over this stud. This held the S/C in the right place which allowed me to get the 2nd bolt in easily. Once that bolt was in I removed the stud by hand and put in the second S/C bolt.
5: I removed the front clam which is really easy (Im sure its covered elsewhere) and replaced the plastic M/C with the Wilwood one from GRP. The plastic M/C is not a serviceable item so I cut it open to see why it wasn't pumping fluid and nothing really stood out. There was a fair bit of crud in there which looks like fluid that had broken down but the seal itself and M/C walls looked fine. Unsure on that one. Replacement of the M/C is easy however in my case the fluid line that came with the kit was for a left hand drive car which was unfortunately about 100mm to short for a Right Hand Drive car. This wouldn't have been a issue except I was trying to do it in the middle of 4 weeks of "National Isolation" in New Zealand due to Corona Virus and I couldn't leave home.

Im not allowed out of the house so I haven't yet drive it but it all seams to work fine with normal feel etc but the one thing I cant check is if there is any fluid temperature problems that I have introduced with these modifications. Will update post once I have tested it. Lotus. Lots of Testing usually significant. Mark
uding brakes/clutch fluid) since the car has been sitting in a garage for 5 years. (Do you have any idea what this burning smell could be?)

I was wondering if it's worth to upgrade the clutch system? Do you have any more issues with you clutch or do you have any other recommendations? Can you post a few more pictures of your work. That would be helpful!

Thanks you in advance,

Pascal
 

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The stock clutch should be plenty durable. There really should be no reason to change it, especially with only 50 miles on it. Just flush the fluid, use a good quality, high temp fluid like Castrol SRF or Motul RBF 600 and it should be fine.

You may also want to put some DEI fire wrap over the clutch slave cylinder line if there isn't already a piece there.
 
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