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Plug Whisperer
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Discussion Starter #1
Wiping intake cams is common-place on the Lotus 2ZZ-GE 4 cylinder.

There are many theories as to why this is the case. The aftermarket cams rarely, if ever wipe, as they're much harder than the stock Toyota cams.

This BOE intake cam is the stock grind but much harder than the stock cam. If you're worried about wiping an intake cam or just want to replace the stock cam for preventative maintenance, this is your answer.

No new tune needed. This cam will marry to used rockers as long as the rocker has NOT been damaged from a cam in the wiping stages. Always replace damaged rockers.

Always LIBERALLY apply quality assembly lube to a new cam shaft journals AND lobes. We recommend Redline Assembly Lube or a product of similar quality.


BOE Intake Cam
 

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Cool beans!

Any data on how much harder this is than stock?
Is this a stock toyota cam that has been hardened or a completely new piece?
How many miles have these been tested? I am curious how the life of the rocker is affected by the harder cam.
 

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Got Parts?
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Good stuff Phil, can't wait to try it out on my cam eating machine.
 

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Plug Whisperer
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Discussion Starter #4
It's a new cam all together. Same cam manufacturer and blanks that are used in the majority of the aftermarket 2ZZ cams that generally don't wipe...

We did Rockwell testing several years ago, which showed them to be considerably harder than stock...

Not sure of a good way to test since you can't really -make the car wipe a cam-... You're improving your chances of not wiping an intake cam with this part....

Hope that helps,

Phil
 

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Phil --

Dumb question: Now that you have hardened the camshaft, do we now need to be concerned with the hardness of the rockers, or are the stock Toyota rockers hard enough that that should not be an issue?

Thanks!

-- Mike
 

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It's a new cam all together. Same cam manufacturer and blanks that are used in the majority of the aftermarket 2ZZ cams that generally don't wipe...

We did Rockwell testing several years ago, which showed them to be considerably harder than stock...

Not sure of a good way to test since you can't really -make the car wipe a cam-... You're improving your chances of not wiping an intake cam with this part....

Hope that helps,

Phil
I take it that you do not have that rockwell data? Can you provide what the hardness is of this new cam?
 

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Plug Whisperer
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Discussion Starter #7
Phil --

Dumb question: Now that you have hardened the camshaft, do we now need to be concerned with the hardness of the rockers, or are the stock Toyota rockers hard enough that that should not be an issue?

Thanks!

-- Mike
Mike- Not a dumb question. The hardness of this cam is the same as the other aftermarket cams that we (the whole community, we) have had very good results with. Again, same cam makers, same process, just a stock grind so that it's compatible with the stock tune, valve lash, etc... It's a plug and play deal. I still recommend lash clearances that are over factory intake spec. We target 12-14 thou on the intake. Factory spec is typically 6-8 thou and 10 at high point. That is too tight, in my view...


I take it that you do not have that rockwell data? Can you provide what the hardness is of this new cam?

I probably do some place. Years back we rockwelled all the major cams, including stock, the lash caps, and the rocker sliders.

The lash caps and rocker sliders were harder than diamonds in an ice storm. The stock cams were 10 HRC points (going off memory) softer than aftermarket, the sliders were something like 30 HRC points more than the aftermarket cams... I'm certain that Jim or I posted this on the forums here at some point... Again, this is probably like 4 years ago...

We tried various treatments to the sliders and the cams to prolong the life. Tried cryo, coatings, etc... interestingly enough, all that science failed and forced cam wiping quickly... the marriage is a fragile one to be sure... Again, we posted about all that way back when, I just don't have the data in front of me since it really only told us what didn't work...

-Phil
 

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Success

I have wiped too many cams in my Rev 400 Elise. A good while ago I had had enough and did a few things that I hoped would help. Well I had the cam cover off last week and the cams for the first time ever were absolutely perfect after about ten thousand miles. Here is what I did and you can debate what has worked.
1) I removed my front oil coolers and now run a Laminova
2) I run a bit of ZDDP in the oil
3) I removed the double Ferrea valve springs and now run MWR single springs
4) I have MWR stage 3 cams but as mine is a daily and track car I wanted OEM drivability and economy so I had my local cam manufacturer machine the lower lift lobes to OEM specs. A bit of an experiment but it works perfectly with a really smooth changeover at 5400 RPM and 16 psi of boost. So the best of both worlds.
5) I run 14 thou lash on the inlets

I think think that the harder cam that Phil is offering will be a great solution to this vexing problem.
 

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I know what it is, and what it does, but someone more specific with their answer probably needs to chime in. Nothing like new OE cam vs wiped cam vs new after-market cam pix either, presentation is everything...
I replaced my intake cam and rocker pads last weekend due to cam wiping with the help of another LT member. BOE's cam is working great thus far. I'll post some pictures of before/after tomorrow.

For as wide-spread of an issue this is, when we actually went to install this we had some issues putting it in and resorted to the toyota celica forums for guidance. If there is interest, Cyow5 and I could share our thoughts on this- from first diagnosis to install to performance afterwards.
 

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I have a cam install guide here . https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1030/5025/files/cam_and_rockers_pdf.pdf?1731335237688745869
It might be helpful for future installers.
I want to add that remove the tensioner is nowhere near as simple as depicted in that PDF for us. The belt tensioner bracket is in the way, so have you figured out a way around that? We tried every breaker bar I had and could not get the tensioner off, so I just took a dremel and a sanding drum to the backside of the bracket. It only needed a mm or so and then we could pull the tensioner out to reset it. I think we might've been able to unbolt the engine mounts and lift it enough to get my impact gun in there, so is that how others have done it?

Other than that tensioner issue, the process really is pretty straightforward.
 

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Not sure what would account for the difference. From my feeble memory. I removed the serpentine drive belt. Unbolt the drive belt tensioner (compressed shock absorber thing). The belt tensioner bracket now moves freely. It moves enough out the way to remove the timing chain tensioner. or not . It's a Lotus after all.

I want to add that remove the tensioner is nowhere near as simple as depicted in that PDF for us. The belt tensioner bracket is in the way, so have you figured out a way around that? We tried every breaker bar I had and could not get the tensioner off, so I just took a dremel and a sanding drum to the backside of the bracket. It only needed a mm or so and then we could pull the tensioner out to reset it. I think we might've been able to unbolt the engine mounts and lift it enough to get my impact gun in there, so is that how others have done it?

Other than that tensioner issue, the process really is pretty straightforward.
 

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Not sure what would account for the difference. From my feeble memory. I removed the serpentine drive belt. Unbolt the drive belt tensioner (compressed shock absorber thing). The belt tensioner bracket now moves freely. It moves enough out the way to remove the timing chain tensioner. or not . It's a Lotus after all.

That sounds like what we should've tried, haha.
@SkyeO


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I think you guys are over thinking it. If you take off the belt tensioner shock thing and press down on the swinging arm, the tensioner comes straight off. Easy pesy.
 
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