[hifiandmtb]

As discussed elsewhere, I've given up trying to replace the oil cooler lines on my MY04 111R as there are several issues (difficult-to-remove RHS hose, suspect RHS cooler) that mean I've decided to move onto:

• plan "b" (fit Moroso sump & temp gauge, monitor oil temps (not a track car!))

• possibly plan "c" (fit water/oil solution (like Laminova or Mocal)) if oil temps are excessive

I've currently installed a bypass hose on the sandwich plate but I'd like to temporarily remove the sandwich plate altogether whilst I gather more oil temp data (I will be doing this at the same time as fitting the Moroso sump - I haven't driven the car at all since fitting the bypass hose).

However, I'll obviously need to fit a new fitting bolt to the engine to allow the filter to screw straight onto the block (credit to SobeLotus for this pic):

Can anyone advise me what the Toyota part number for this fitting might be? What size is the bolt/nut shown in that pic that I need to unscrew...or does the filter adaptor just screw onto what's already there?

 

[hifiandmtb]

61 views & no comments? I'm guessing this is a question no-one's asked before...

 

[toywrc]

you can get part numbers from toyodiy.. heres what you might need ..ToyoDIY.com

 

[CHRISN]

I am replacing my stock setup with an a2a oil cooler and puller fan located in one of the side scoop areas.
I converted everything to -10 an and purchased a greedy adapter plate in order to install spa dual temp/psi gauge.

 

[Brent Bauman]

I have the part number at my shop, I can post it later.

 

[Sammy Sandbag]

Part# 90904‑04002 UNION (FOR OIL FILTER)

 

[hifiandmtb]

Rockin' stuff, Sammy Sandbag! Thanks a million!

 

[Monkeywrench]

If you don't run track days you should be fine with no oil cooler just like all of the Toyota models with 2ZZ engines. That Toyota part will do the trick. Running synthetic oil will give you a bigger safety factor temperature wise too.

 

[Keeper]

I'm going to do this for now at least.

What does it take to remove the sandwich plate? It looks like it's held in by one large bolt. Can I just unbolt the plate, let it drain, then zip tie it out of the way? Or, do the lines need to come off to get it off?

What's the torque required for the new fitting?

I'll probably switch to a Mocal setup over the winter.

 

[hifiandmtb]

I think it would be possible to tie it all back without removing the hoses, but I'd just unbolt the hoses from the sandwich plate & tie the hoses back individually.

Now I've bypassed the coolers, installed a Moroso pan & an oil temperature gauge I've made the following oil temperature observations:

Took the 111R for a quick spin down to Stanwell Tops & back to check the oil temperature gauge functionality.

The water temp was normalised in the first five minutes - by the end of Maianbar Drive (6km from home). The oil temperature gauge hadn't moved at all yet, so I was getting worried. But no need - oil takes w-a-y longer to get up to temperature than water...it wasn't until I was at the bottom of Waterfall hill (20km & 15 minutes from home) that the oil temperature matched the water (87 degrees). Be careful people - let your engine warm up properly before exercising it!

The oil & water temps were almost perfectly matched for the rest of the trip - if I gave it a little (say, 5,000rpm up a hill for 20 seconds) oil rose to around 95 degrees & then quickly returned to the high-eighties (again, matching the water temperature).

I'll be keen to see how high oil rises on a hot day when you are thrashing it, but I can't see oil temps being an issue if the cooling system is functioning correctly. I may not need to do anything more at all re: oil unless I'm tracking the car (highly unlikely at this stage).

 

[Monkeywrench]

^ correct. Just remove the stock plate and you can use the Toyota fitting in its place. There is no difference in the Toyota vs Lotus 2ZZ block.

 

[Keeper]

I have bypassed my Oil Coolers for now. You may try what I did at your own risk. I don't usually track the car but will get a oil cooler solution in place before I do.

1. Removed oil filter
2. Removed oil lines from sandwich plate
3. Removed sandwich plate by unscrewing union (I think I used a 1" socket?) in center then prying off.
4. Removed union in the pic below with a 30mm socket
5. Remove one of the oil line unions from the sandwich plate
6. Removed the washer from the sandwich plate side of the oil line-to-sandwich plate union. It has a plastic gasket retaining it but it will slide over the threads.
7. Drain as much oil from the oil lines as practical. (I may blow oil out of the system with a compressor later. Has anyone tried to evacuate oil from the system?)
8. Connect the two oil lines with the oil line-to-sandwich plate union and zip tie out of the way.
9. Install 90904-04002 (see pic in next post) and torque to spec (I believe it's 21ft-lbs but that seemed tight to me so you should confirm.)
10. Reinstall the oil filter.
11. Check and fill oil.
12. Run car
13. Check for leaks
14. Check and fill oil.

 

[Keeper]

Pic of 90904-04002:

 

[Keeper]

I have bypassed coolers for now. I'll be installing oil temp and pressure gauges in the short term and will address the oil cooling in the long term and before the next track event.

I have updated my last two posts with details on what I did.

Thanks . . .

 

[Westrock]

Pic of 90904-04002:

How do you tighten that thing? Is there something to be seen from looking at it from the end (straight on)? I'm assuming its hollow in the center to allow to flow through it

 

[Keeper]

It's a rather large allen key. 8mm I think.

 

[hifiandmtb]

10mm. Well, I think it's 10mm as my 8mm is too small.

 

[Westrock]

Oh ok, so its actually more like a plug? I thought it oil still came down the middle. Gotcha, makes more sense now.

 

[Keeper]

The oil does come down the middle. The "pipe" is hex shaped.

Now I'm thinking it was 12mm . . .

 

[Westrock]

The oil does come down the middle. The "pipe" is hex shaped.

Thats genius really!