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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hello

i own a Lotus Exige S240 MY2008 for almost 10 years
back in May, i lost compression in 1 cylinder. i decided the rebuilt the engine with Mahle pistons setting the CR to 9.0
i have a TVS1320 SSC kit and SSC ECU
Pistons Mahle CR 9.0
rods/valves/springs/ etc etc, all are new and are "stronger" parts
injectors 720cc from the SSC kit
chargecooler / 2bular custom exhaust

after my engine rebuilt, i have issues starting the car
i was flooding the engine/ having the sparks wet
i managed to start the car once, it ran beautifully for 20min , just to get it warm for me to check the levels (oil/coolant)

eversince, i have issues
the car starts but it dies immediatly
i can keep it alive with the throttle, but as soon as i lift my foot, the car stalls

at first , i thought my basemap was incorrect

after getting in touch with both SSC and Adaptronic, they all told me the car should start with my map

here is what i checked in order:
- spark plugs are new, they are getting spark
- i tested with others injectors (new), same behaviour
- injectors tested in WARI -> OK
- i fix a TMAP wiring problem, sending wrong Kpa values to the ECU
- i cleaned all connectors i could access, the only one not cleaned is the knock sensor
- i put a newer O2 sensor
- i tested the cam sensor unplugged

i don't have wet plugs anymore but the car stalls

i'm troubleshooting actually with adaptronic, we've narrow down the issue with my cam timing, i'm too advanced

Mark from adaptronic says :
That log shows that the cam is advanced about 45°. The file I gave you has VVT control disabled.
The ECU reports the cam angle being way advance even without the ECU's effort to control VVT.
So possible things that might be happening:
- Physical cam timing has moved, or
- VVT oil control valve is stuck, or
- VVT wiring may be grounded causing the OCV to open​

so here is what i did after taking out the cam cover today
- i performed this procedure of unlocking the pin on the VVT sprocket when installing on the cam: hand tight the bolt-> unlock pin with 20psi of air -> torque the bolt -> lock back the sprocket
https://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=299052
- my timing is correct and looking as in the pictures of BOE
https://www.boefab.com/blogs/tech/50212675-2zz-ge-cam-timing
- i've checked the VVT solenoid in WARI: Aux Out -> invert: i can hear it click

my problem is still there, the logs shows i'm too advanced ?

do you have any idea on what to check/test?
swap solenoids? (VVT solenoid will be a PITA, looks like i need to move the inlet manifold..)
new solenoids?


i'm lost to be honest ?
 

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I'd start by making sure your engine wiring harness is good/sensors work. If all of those sensors are reading properly and not grounded out, I'd move on to your ECU settings and make sure your sensors are all calibrated properly...ie if it's 78° outside, make sure your ECU sees 78° on your IAT temp. That should be the case for IAT, water temp, oil temp etc. Once your ECU is reading the sensors and the sensors are properly calibrated, I'd go through and look at the enrichment maps, VVT settings, idle settings, crank settings..

My biggest advice would be take it to a tuner. Someone that does it for a living. While you might struggle to find the problem, they might know immediately where to look. Having did it myself, I can tell you I would have saved a ton of time just taking it to a tuner first.
 

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We don't know where you are. Never understand why ppl don't list their locations.


My general advice would be to drive/ship car to BOE.


Yes, likely not helpful...
 

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I suggest working with SSC or taking the car somewhere knowledgeable. These things can be hard to get the right advice online, at this point it could be a number of things. Have you worked with Mike after testing the few items he gave you? Any new data in the ECU related to timing? I know BOE was suggested but not sure they work with that ECU but you can give them a call.
 

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check the idle air control valve

check fuel pressure with a test kit

test mass air flow meter

I had a similar issue with an engine swap. a piece of rubber plugged up the IAC valve. That was a bitch to find the problem.

The other issue I had was a counterfeit set of NGK plugs. This was a night mare that eventually ruined a new 1jz engine swap. ended up washing the cylinders and burning oil.
 

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Well, they are saying the cam timing is wrong I would check the static cam timing

IF vvt is disabled, I would remove the ability of it to change cam timing, remove lift bolt or replace with one that is shorter. Or unplug the electronics to it

otherwise, big vacuum leak?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
check the idle air control valve

check fuel pressure with a test kit

test mass air flow meter

I had a similar issue with an engine swap. a piece of rubber plugged up the IAC valve. That was a bitch to find the problem.

The other issue I had was a counterfeit set of NGK plugs. This was a night mare that eventually ruined a new 1jz engine swap. ended up washing the cylinders and burning oil.
IACV is on the airbox , right?

i don't have that anymore, and no more MAF also

SSC ECU uses MAP and TPS

fuel pressure is good

as for the plugs, i swap between 2 sets without any changes...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'd start by making sure your engine wiring harness is good/sensors work. If all of those sensors are reading properly and not grounded out, I'd move on to your ECU settings and make sure your sensors are all calibrated properly...ie if it's 78° outside, make sure your ECU sees 78° on your IAT temp. That should be the case for IAT, water temp, oil temp etc. Once your ECU is reading the sensors and the sensors are properly calibrated, I'd go through and look at the enrichment maps, VVT settings, idle settings, crank settings..

My biggest advice would be take it to a tuner. Someone that does it for a living. While you might struggle to find the problem, they might know immediately where to look. Having did it myself, I can tell you I would have saved a ton of time just taking it to a tuner first.
VVT angle in the SSC ECU is calculated with the cam sensor and crankshaft sensor inputs

i made some tests with these sensors unplugged, logs sent to SSC

water temp reading is correct
TMAP is correct now, i had an issue before
may be either the cam sensor or the crankshaft sensor that are out/grounded/toasted
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, they are saying the cam timing is wrong I would check the static cam timing

IF vvt is disabled, I would remove the ability of it to change cam timing, remove lift bolt or replace with one that is shorter. Or unplug the electronics to it

otherwise, big vacuum leak?
in static, all the dots / chain links / TDC at the crank are aligned as per the Toyota manual
both cams facing the center
as i said, my engine / cams are looking exactly as in the pictures of BOE
https://www.boefab.com/blogs/tech/50212675-2zz-ge-cam-timing

lift bolts are new
 

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I did not have any luck using the air method to unlock the VVT. I removed the 5-sided bolts on the cover and unlocked it manually. You might try that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I did not have any luck using the air method to unlock the VVT. I removed the 5-sided bolts on the cover and unlocked it manually. You might try that.
i was able to unlock it with air pressure

what confuse me is the Toyota manual with retard hole and advance hole. :scratchhead:
as far as i remember, there is only way to unlock, counterclokwise, and you can lock it only clockwise.
the goal is this unlocking procedure is too avoid damaging the pin when torque the bolt
you unlock, torque the bolt and then lock it
 

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i was able to unlock it with air pressure
Yes, but the symptoms appear to be that the VVT is staying locked. I would go through the unlocking procedure again to double check. I found it to be educational to open it up to see how it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes, but the symptoms appear to be that the VVT is staying locked. I would go through the unlocking procedure again to double check. I found it to be educational to open it up to see how it works.
i agree with you, i might do that again, to double check
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes, but the symptoms appear to be that the VVT is staying locked. I would go through the unlocking procedure again to double check. I found it to be educational to open it up to see how it works.

hi

i did it yesterday, the PIN is moving freely, unlock it manually by opening the assembly.
i don't see any problem with it
but still, having the same problem :frown2:

timing is ok
https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1242870
 

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Are your injector timing settings right? If you're using a stock base map with 720 injectors your injector table will be way off. I had problems with some RC550 injector timings which caused the car to run like garbage. Switched to Bosch injectors and it was night and day better.

Not really a timing issue, but if your ECU is not getting the gas or getting too much gas than it thinks it is, maybe a contributing factor. Does it "hunt" at idle or does it not even start up?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Are your injector timing settings right? If you're using a stock base map with 720 injectors your injector table will be way off. I had problems with some RC550 injector timings which caused the car to run like garbage. Switched to Bosch injectors and it was night and day better.

Not really a timing issue, but if your ECU is not getting the gas or getting too much gas than it thinks it is, maybe a contributing factor. Does it "hunt" at idle or does it not even start up?
the engine starts but rough idle if not stalling quickly

yes, i have a correct remap for my injectors, the car ran for several thousands kms with this map.
the only modification from last year is the CR from 11.5 down to 9.0

i initially thought that was causing the problem but both SSC and adaptronic say my car should run with this map

i think i'll start from scratch, again, and take out the timing cover to triple check the chain at the crank
:facepalm
 

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the engine starts but rough idle if not stalling quickly

yes, i have a correct remap for my injectors, the car ran for several thousands kms with this map.
the only modification from last year is the CR from 11.5 down to 9.0

i initially thought that was causing the problem but both SSC and adaptronic say my car should run with this map

i think i'll start from scratch, again, and take out the timing cover to triple check the chain at the crank
:facepalm
Just to make sure I understand this. You dropped compression from 11.5 to 9.0 and didn't change the tune/fuel maps? While that may run I have to imagine that is not correct.
 
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