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It was awesome!! 1st gear was useless, 2nd gear started to get some grip, and third gear just kept pulling. Ran out of road at that point. I think there are some guys on here with swaps, too. If you find a good donor motor, it really isn't a bad way to go for crazy power without stressing the internals too bad. Matt spoke highly about the tunability of that motor, especially if de-cat is an option


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Woodsport needs to get his facts right, RX350 and IS350 do not use the same engine. IS w/ direct injection starts at 305 Hp but then is also designed for long. mount.
 

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Not quite sure what dyno they are running...and yes as Julian states some of their info is incorrect. The FSE comes in the DI cars (lexus mostly) and the FE in the non-DI cars like ours. In talking with Phil, looking at my results and many others on the forum, these motors put down between 240-248 on average for baseline WHP numbers, nowhere near the 270 he mentions, unless they are all confused and really talking about the FSE the whole time.


I am getting close but I don't think I'll clip 325 crank without fastworks. As it sits my best so far has been 278 whp, so with 12% loss 311 crank or with 15% 320 crank. I need to get back on the dyno for a final, latest number as that was a few months back, but don't expect to see more than 1-2 hp gain where I'm at now.
 

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to be fair IRT the MR2 guys-they are running a standalone (my guess is AEM) which means they do have more play with the motor, and I think 325+ is easy if you have more leeway with the tune, which we won't until the fastworks.
 

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I did a 2gr swap in my MR2. I normally just lurk here to see what kind of stuff you guys are coming up with that could take advantage of, but since the subject of swapped MR2s came up I thought I'd chime in. Also I have no personal knowledge of Paul Woods work but have heard good things.

Most MR2 swap guys are running stock Toyota ECUs, not standalones. The 2006-2007 Rav4 is popular because it was available without an immobilizer and the wiring harness is more conducive to the MR2 engine bay. There's a few with piggybacks like the Emanage, and I can only think of two currently running with standalones (Link and Vipec,) but I'm sure there's more being built and others that just aren't active on the forums.

I believe Paul's dyno compensates for flywheel horsepower, that seems to be common in the UK. My MR2 installation dynoed 254.2 HP with 227.7 ft-lbs at the wheels on a Dyno Dynamics "heartbreaker" with intake, headers, 3" exhaust with a high flow cat on the stock Toyota ECU. Other guys are getting about 285 HP on Dynojets with similar setups.
 

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Nik, are you talking an SW20 MR2? How difficult is a 2gr swap vs. a 3mz?

Sorry for hijacking the thread... :facepalm
 

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Nik, are you talking an SW20 MR2? How difficult is a 2gr swap vs. a 3mz?

Sorry for hijacking the thread... :facepalm
Well that depends how you go about the swap and what your end goal is. My experience with the 1/3mz swap comes from driving and working on the MR2 Biohazard Chump Car.

If you're throwing money at it, I think the 2gr can be easier. You can buy a full kit from Gouky with all the mounts and adapters and really nice headers, then have MR220v do your wiring harness and just bolt it in and go. I didn't use the kit because I like tinkering and figuring stuff out so I lost that advantage. The wiring is theoretically easier on the mz engines. I think there's mounts available for the mz engines, but on those you can easily hack something together with a piece of angle iron too. There's headers for the solara guys but I think those require some modification, so we built our own. The coolant flow is reversed on the 1/3mz in relation to the 3/5s so you have to cross the pipes over or just run the coolant reversed and have the rad fans on all the time, because racecar. You also have to clearance the block of the 2gr for the slave cylinder, and diff housing of the e153. There's also a hole that needs to be helicoiled to get an extra bolt in the bellhousing. Minor things really. The mz series came with the e153 so it just bolts on. Or you can use the s54 to save weight and just have it be a consumable item, because racecar.

So if you want a bolt in factory like swap I think the 2gr is easier at this point in time, given the swap parts available. If going for a shadetree solution the mz series is simpler to adapt and get running, but you'll spend a lot more time if you're trying to attain the same factory like quality.
 

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I'm not looking for factory quality, as you said, because racecar. I'm just looking for an option if I run into cooling issues with the turbo or blow the seals in it. An N/A car is probably a more reliable endurance racer than a forced induction unit but given current chump car rules a 3s-gte to 3mz swap is a no money add but a 5f-se to 3mz would put me well into penalty laps if not in the exception class.
 

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If you're interested in it for your chump car, talk to Troy, he built the Biohazard car as the first v6 swapped mr2 for chumpcar and its come a long way since then, with a lot of growing pains along the way. I know Bill Strong's v6 chumpcar was built following a similar formula. There's a lot of information over at mr2oc as a result.

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