[DWebb]

I purchased these $39 rear brake pads at my local carquest. Sure hope they don't suck.

Bob (parts guy) says they're top of the line.

They are blue, but of course so are smurfs, and smurfs aint worth a crap, unless your talking about nipple smurf. Nipple smurf is pretty cool.
We used to get high.

Well I'll keep ya posted.

 

[DWebb]

Finally got around to replacing those brake pads tonight.

They fit with no problems. Didn't have to sand anything down. Nothin!

It went so well in fact I'm afraid something might be wrong.
In fact, if it had been even just a little bit of a pain in the ass I might feel as though I'd accomplished something.
Of all the cars that I've done brake jobs on, this one was, hands down, the easiest.

Haven't had time to burn them in yet, perhaps tomorrow.

L8r
Darrell

 

[Seb]

Those super cheap-o pads tend to chew the **** out of rotors.

 

[QuadCamSix]

Those super cheap-o pads tend to chew the **** out of rotors.

I thought it was the other way around. The high friction pads IE race pads chew up the rotors. Can someone clarify. I just bought the cheap pads too since they seem to work better when cold. Good for sudden stops when SUVs pull out in front of me.

 

[Seb]

EBC Race pads prolong rotor life, just to name one.

The Duralast Gold series pads are some of the worst I know about. You might as well be trying to stop the rotor with a lathe.

 

[DWebb]

Well, I have planned to upgrade from the factory rotors anyways.

Seems that I have "rights" all the way around. <--WTF? Lotus?:sad:

These pads are carquest premium pads not duralast.

You may be right Seb, They might suck ducks.

I hope you're wrong though, $300 bucks is too much for rear pads.

I'll be reporting back as soon as there is something to report.

Meanwhile if any of you have experience with these pads please let us know how they worked out for ya.-poke-

 

[DWebb]

So far so good

Ok, It's been 7 days.

Pads have made no noise.

Rotors appear to be clean and smooth.

Stops just fine.

'bout 300 miles so far so good.

Let ya know how they do after next spirited drive through hills.

 

[DWebb]

12K miles report

Ok, Well I've got 12 thousand miles on these $39 brake pads.
No noise.
No dusty residue.
No evidence of wear.
No damage to any of the rotors.
I used the park brake once to stop the car just to be sure they are working.

They work!
Driven hard and No problems!
They perform equal to stock in my opinion.
Good luck.

Darrell

 

[IamBatman]

good to know... part number?

 

[DWebb]

Part numbers courtesy of Arno and S&S museum

I picked these part numbers out of a thread by S&S museum and a dude named "Arno" Not really sure whose thread it was originally.

ELISE FRONT FMSI D174/109

FMSI D109 might be a bit thick on the front, but same backing plate.

ELISE REAR FMSI D491

Using these numbers They crossed over to whatever Carquest number I purchased and still have on my car now.

 

[cheungms]

Any new updates? Did your CarQuest contact state these were suitable for track driving use or no? Have you had any stints with autocrossing / spirited driving that you can report back with? I know it's the worst thing at the track to not have good brakes, but if I can get these for <1/7th the price...

 

[DWebb]

Any new updates? Did your CarQuest contact state these were suitable for track driving use or no? Have you had any stints with autocrossing / spirited driving that you can report back with? I know it's the worst thing at the track to not have good brakes, but if I can get these for <1/7th the price...

I've had no problems at all. I'm always a spirited driver.

Rotors still look great. I have not tracked the car with these brakes.

I say try them out, if they don't work out for ya, all you've lost is $40.

 

[pax]

I say try them out, if they don't work out for ya, all you've lost is $40.

Now -that's- the understatement of the decade.

 

[Apex_in_sno]

Try 3 ABS stops from 80 to 5 MPH in a row, let us all know how they work after that.
OH, bring a fire extinguisher, you'll need it...

 

[FIL]

Well, I have planned to upgrade from the factory rotors anyways.

You are willing to upgrade rotors but too cheap to buy decent pads? that doesn't really make much senseanic:

 

[DWebb]

Try 3 ABS stops from 80 to 5 MPH in a row, let us all know how they work after that.
OH, bring a fire extinguisher, you'll need it...

I've performed multiple < like 5 consecutive > abs stops from speed <70mph> to burn them in. No sweat, the hotter they got the better they stopped...:shrug: what's your point?

FIL
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWebb View Post
Well, I have planned to upgrade from the factory rotors anyways.
You are willing to upgrade rotors but too cheap to buy decent pads? that doesn't really make much sense



I have not upgraded rotors. I just can't see spending $400 extra for a daily driver with stock rotors rarely tracked. That's what would not make sense.

I'll spend for more expensive pads when I get better rotors.

These pads have worked for me quite well for nearly a year and there is plenty of pad remaining, in fact they hardly look worn at all. They stop every bit as good as stock and they cost $39.

I only started this post to let guys know there is a practical alternative to spending half a grand on two of the tinyest brake pads I've ever seen.

I'll answer questions if you have them.
I'll report how they're doing or if I experience any failure.

You got a problem with that ? It's called penis envy, see a therapist....or a surgeon, no matter to me. -poke-

 

[agirls]

Where do rear brake pads cost $500?

 

[rpalomo]

sorry DWEBB- people here sometimes dont understand why you posted. Thanks for the post and thanks for sharing. Glad that you found something that works and is very cheap. If I decide to try it I will refer back to this thread for part numbers etc..

please continue to share any other findings

 

[AW07LE]

Hey guys, I just installed the Carquest rear pads mentioned. Here are some pictures. I got mine for $62. Guess prices went up since last year..


DWebb, is this what the box looked like? Want to make sure I got the right ones.

Installed:

And I needed front pads, but I had Carquest cross-reference the numbers and this is how the front pads look...looks wrong to me. Maybe I should see how the D109's are?

I don't want to install the fronts just yet because of this:

Looks like my front driver pad went to crap and slightly damaged the top part of the rotor all the way around. Do I need a replacement rotor or can I get them machined?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm new to brakes on this car. Thanks!

 

[DWebb]

I have not needed to do my fronts yet. Perhaps you would need the D109. The box says non-asbestos but that doesn't mean they are semi-metallic. It would be a shame to put an organic pad on that rotor.

If I remember correctly I believe the article from S&S museum stated that one of the front sets was too thick and had to be worked on to get it in.
It would make sense to me that an organic pad would be thicker than a Semi-metallic. Probably, if it drops right in it may be Ok, but if it looks like it needs to be sanded down just to get it in I wouldn't mess with it. Get the other one.



As far as your rotor goes, if the inside has no damage, well put it this way. I've seen people run new pads on much worse with no consequence. I've also seen those same people drive with their brakes metal to metal for so long that the metal fell out on the road and the caliper piston popped out enough that the fluid fell out and when I got to them they had quite a mess.

I'd say that if you are really in a bind you could run it that way temporarily. It would be ill-advised to say the least. You are the only one responsible for whatever happens if you choose to take a vehicle with defective brakes on public streets. <------ my disclaimer, nuff sed

I wouldn't agree with machining the rotor as they are pretty thin to begin with.

If it were me, I'd be taking this opportunity to upgrade to better rotors. Then an expensive pad could do you some good. I believe that putting an expensive pad on a stock rotor is a waste.

Rotor can only take so much heat.
Tire only has so much grip.
ABS sees to it that even if you do get a better pad you won't get any more out of it than what the tire will allow.

If you get better rotors they will dissipate more heat more rapidly and that can eliminate brake fade when you are really abusing them as in track day. Not to mention they weight less. Can't say enough for reducing un-sprung weight.

At that point, go ahead and kick down for the best pads you can get.

Short answer: replace the rotor.



BTW, my rear pads are still doing great and showing almost no signs of wear and the rotors still look great.
Goes from 130 to 70 startlingly quick.