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I've had a hum on my deck when songs switch between tracks on my usb stick and also if I turn the volume down all the way or pause the music. This is occurring before and after HID install though so it's related to the amp/deck I installed.

@lotuselise7 thanks for the link i ordered the same ones, as far as the hum on the radio... i didn't have any issues with any interference but my radio is HD- maybe that makes a difference?
 

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I've had a hum on my deck when songs switch between tracks on my usb stick and also if I turn the volume down all the way or pause the music. This is occurring before and after HID install though so it's related to the amp/deck I installed.
Weird mine clearly didnt do it before the HID install.
 

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maybe the hum has something to do with the placement of the ballast unit in relation to the lotus antenna? I think the antenna goes along the bottom of the windshield.... I put my ballast on the outer side of the headlight "pod" closer to the oil cooler. I'm not sure if that would do it or not.
 

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I think it may have to do with the ballast wiring? There may be some electrical interference or something caused by the ballast being powered up through whatever wiring harness is sent with the car.
 

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Does this setup require the HID dual in dual out harness as well as the Error Eliminator (Type 3 or 5)? They appear to be "optional"; not sure if these are necessary.

Has anybody replaced their yellow DRLs with other LEDs/bulbs to match? If so, from where and what intensity?
 

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I can confirm that immediately after the DDM 55w HID conversion the stereo has lots of interference. Not that it matters, i couldn't have heard it anyway.
 

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Just got them in the mail today. I would be upset if I just got these in the mail without knowing what to do, since it is only parts. No instructions were included and I dont even think they marked the color of the bulbs. But based on the instructions here it looks like it will be pretty easy. Anyone else in the area getting them and want to do a group install?

I have had to replace a few burnt out headlight bulbs on the car already, so I am getting pretty good getting the wheelliner and headlight cover off. FYI it is a good idea to replace the cheap plastic screws that hold on the wheeliner with stainless steel ones, since the plastic ones seem to get stripped easily.

Where are you guys putting the ballast?
 

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I can confirm that immediately after the DDM 55w HID conversion the stereo has lots of interference. Not that it matters, i couldn't have heard it anyway.
Can someone confirm if there is interference with CDs as well, or is it only with satellite and standard radio?
 

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Can someone confirm if there is interference with CDs as well, or is it only with satellite and standard radio?

Does the static occur only when the lights are on or does it also happen when they are off in cars that do not have daytime running lights?
 

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Where are you mounting the ballasts?

Do you mount the ballasts under the wheel well liner, or is there a better location?
 

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Do you mount the ballasts under the wheel well liner, or is there a better location?
I've mounted mine on the inner side of the shell with Scotch Heavy Duty mounting squares (double sided) from OSH.Cleaned area with alcohol and used separate pads to follow the contours of the shell. The original tape did not stick well! Next time I will mount it on the flat vertical surface next to the oil cooler.

I ordered the 5K,35W HID kit from ddmtuning, a little blue for me, but much brighter and it lights up the signs and cars on the right side. Wondering if 5K w/ 55W is the better choice? Any sugguestions?:bow:
 

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I've mounted mine on the inner side of the shell with Scotch Heavy Duty mounting squares (double sided) from OSH.Cleaned area with alcohol and used separate pads to follow the contours of the shell. The original tape did not stick well! Next time I will mount it on the flat vertical surface next to the oil cooler.

I ordered the 5K,35W HID kit from ddmtuning, a little blue for me, but much brighter and it lights up the signs and cars on the right side. Wondering if 5K w/ 55W is the better choice? Any sugguestions?:bow:
Got my kit from ddm also.

The 55W 5K are white and not blue. The higher the wattage, the less blue you get. I am impressed by the amount of light they put out in my garage after the install, but havent secured the ballasts and put the inner fender covers on yet,so I cant drive on the road yet.

The 55w kits have adapter that is about 2x1x1 and also a 3x5 X 1/2 ballast so I will see if I can get them to fit. I also notices the area by the oil cooler, coolant tubes. Would the heat from these lines cause any problems?
 

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Got my kit from ddm also.

The 55W 5K are white and not blue. The higher the wattage, the less blue you get. I am impressed by the amount of light they put out in my garage after the install, but havent secured the ballasts and put the inner fender covers on yet,so I cant drive on the road yet.

The 55w kits have adapter that is about 2x1x1 and also a 3x5 X 1/2 ballast so I will see if I can get them to fit. I also notices the area by the oil cooler, coolant tubes. Would the heat from these lines cause any problems?
Dunno: Read most of the posts and no comments on the heat. My thoughts ... gravity and the larger surface mounting area would not be a problem next to the cooler... and less interference for the u shaped antenna wire mounted in the clam shell!

PS: Could you tell if your HID's are too bright on the side and is it a pure white? Getting too old to see at night!!:crazyeyes
 

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PS: Could you tell if your HID's are too bright on the side and is it a pure white? Getting too old to see at night!!:crazyeyes[/B]
They are brighter on the passenger side since they are European type lights and the beam pattern on them flairs up to the right. There is a shutter inside of the low beam housing and you can raise it to cut off the the flair but it is better to leave it down so that you let more light out. Here is a drawing of what the beam pattern looks like.

....../ ....../ with shuuters down

........ ......... with shutters up


Note that the lights overlap each other in real life so the flair on the drivers side is on the right hand side and also helps light up the middle of the road. If you were driving in the UK, you would need to have the passenger side shutter up so that you wouldnt blind oncoming traffic.

I adjusted my lights as best as I could too, but I got a blister since they burnt my hand when I was trying to adjust them since the housing gets hot.

Pull up to a wall as close as possible, and mark where the light is. Then back up 25 feet and the light beam should be about 2 or 3 inchers lower than where it was originally.

I believe they are a true white if you get 5000k or lower 55 watts. I dont see any blue like I do with my neighbors Lexus.
 

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Got a question about the lens cover. So I have removed the plastinc fender panel (two expanding screw-in fittings and the one bolt+washer) and got the headlamp assembly out (three 17mm hex nuts + washer and one 8mm nylock nut with washer). I replaced the parking lamp with a white led lamp. However, I do not see how to get the lens cover off. There are a couple of what look like T3 torx screws that might be promising, but I didn't want to mess with them in case that screws up the headlight aiming. Could someone let me know how you remove the lens cover itself?
 

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Got it figured out. Didn't need to do any more than I had. Installed the HIDs and new LED parking lamps.



If anyone else has issues performing this mod, let me know and I'll give you detailed instructions or walk you through it.
 

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I don't have pictures of the step by step, but I can give you the instructions, it's pretty straightforward. These instructions are for a 2007 Exige. Your mileage may vary. The instructions are long but only because they are detailed. This is a very easy installation.

Estimated time: 30 to 60 minutes.
Total cost: About $60

Tools:
17mm box-end wrench or socket
8mm socket
Short, medium phillips-head screwdriver
Sharp knife
(Optional) polarity tester/multimeter
1 pair of latex (or other clean) gloves
3mm hex key or t-handle wrench
Isopropyl alcohol
A clean rag

Parts:
1x DDM Tuning HID kit, 55w, with H7 bulb (check your manual, but I believe all 07+ Exige and Elise use H7 for this) Kit contains two bulbs, igniters and ballasts. Cost around $50.

2x 12v LED bulbs, type 194/168/W5W, blade package. The package I bought has 10 in it. You shouldn't pay more than about $6.

~16" Scotch heavy-duty double-sided mounting tape (white, foam type.)


2x ATO 15 amp fuses (typically these are the blue ones.)

Steps:

This will describe the installation for the driver's side headlamp. The passenger side is identical but screw positions are mirrored.

First we remove the fender panel:
1. Turn your wheel all the way to the right.
2. There is a fender cover in front of the wheel. You will be removing it.
3. Locate the phillips-head screw and washer at the front of the wheel well near the top of the tire. Remove it and set it aside. Make sure the screw clip (into which the screw went) remains on the plastic behind the panel when you remove it in step 6.
4. Turn the wheel all the way to the left.
5. At the bottom of that fender panel will be two phillips-head expanding bayonet fasteners. They will be about 3 inches apart. Remove them and set them aside.
5a. If you unscrew them and they don't come out, you will need a very small flat-blade screwdriver or a fine auger to work them out. These plastic parts can be easily stripped when put in. It's not a big deal, but it's a pain to remove them. There are three pieces: the screw, the fastener collar (into which the screw is countersunk), and a washer. You will need to pry the screw out of the fastener by wedging the screwdriver/auger between the fastener and the screw around the edge of the screw (NOT between the fastener and the washer). You may slightly damage the fastener in the process but that shouldn't be a problem.
6. Remove the panel by sliding the bottom edge toward the back of the car, then pulling the whole panel down. Set it aside.

Next we unmount the headlamp assembly:
1. There are three 17mm thin hex nuts with washers - two at the bottom of the assembly, one about 2/3rds of the way up. Remove these and set them aside.
1a. The lower inboard (toward the center of the car) one may be hard to see. Be careful not to drop it, as it may fall between the oil cooler and another fender panel. If it does, you will need to remove additional panels to get to it. You cannot re-mount the assembly without all three nuts.
2. Locate the 8mm nylock nut on a threaded post about 2/3rd of the way up the assembly, on the outboard side. Remove it and its washer and set it aside.
3. The headlamp assembly will now be loose and you can push it forward (not up) to remove it. The assembly will still be attached by two sets of wires. It will not come completely free of the car, but it doesn't need to. Just get it free of the mounting posts. Be careful not to damage the rubber gasket surrounding the lens.

(Optional) Install the LED parking lights:
1. At the top of the assembly is a 2-prong plug attached to the parking lamp fixture. Disconnect it. It has a locking tab which you can depress from the car side.
2. Remove the parking lamp fixture by rotating it 45 degrees.
3. Remove the blade type bulb by pulling it straight out.
4. Place the LED blade bulb into the fixture.
5. Test the bulb fitting. LED bulbs are polarized, but the fixture (and bulbs) are not marked). Reconnect the fixture to the plug, turn on your car and activate your parking lights. If the bulb does not light, remove it, turn it over, and put it back in.
6. Disconnect the fixture from the plug and put it back in the assembly.
7. Don't forget to turn off your car :)

Install uprated fuses:
1. The headlamp fuses are located in the main fuse box at the front of the car under the front right hood panel. Remove the panel using the 3mm hex wrench and replace the fuses (#17 and #18 on mine, refer to your manual for the correct locations.) They should be 10A fuses before you replace them.
2. Replace the body panel.

Prepare the HID kit:
Refer to the following diagram for the remainder of the installation:


1. Locate the grommets (#4) on the kit. Cut them off using a sharp knife. Be careful not to cut any of the wires. In particular the wires going to the lamps are high voltage (23kv), do not damage the insulation.
2. Separate the wires which go to the igniters (#6) from the ones which go to the lamps (#5).
3. The car-side power (#7) should just be blade ends. If it is not (as the kit pictures, mine came with just blade ends though) you will need to remove them from their housing (if any) or get your own blade ends. With this kit that should not be necessary however.

Install the HID kit:
(If you haven't already, disconnect the parking lamp plug from its fixture.)
1. The top light is the light you will be changing. There is a 3" circular hole plug with a tab on it below the parking lamp. Pull on the tab and set the plug aside.
2. Inside is the lamp with two wires coming out. The wires go into a plastic housing containing two blade-type sockets. Carefully pull the housing (with its sockets) off the bulb.
3. There is a metal clip securing the bulb in its socket. The clip should be pushed in (toward the front of the assembly) then down so it clears the tab on which it was affixed. It will swing back. You can now pull the bulb out. If you intend to keep and re-use the bulb, wear latex gloves (or other clean gloves) while handling it. Oil from your skin will drastically shorten the life of the bulb.
3a. Optionally you may remove the clip entirely, but this is not necessary.
4. Wearing gloves, unscrew the protective plastic from the lamps (#3). Remove the lamps from their holder. Remove the white plastic ring (if any) from the base of the lamp. You should just have the metal flange at the base of the lamp with two wires coming out of it now.
5. Carefully insert the bulb into the socket in the headlamp assembly. There is a small metal tab which ensures it can only fit in one direction.
6. Thread the lamp power leads (#5) through the retainer clip you swung off in step 3. You may now remove the gloves.
7. Re-affix the clip. The bulb should now be secure and there should be two leads with weathertight connectors (one male, one female) coming out of it.
8. Attach the car-side power (#7) blades to the original blade socket you removed from the bulb in step 2.
8a. You will need to determine the polarity of the wires, as they are not marked. Hook the red wire from #7 to the positive side. If you have no means of determining polarity, you may need to reverse these leads in step 10.
9. Connect the igniter-side power (#6) to the socket on the igniter (#1). Also connect the lamp power (#5) to the corresponding connectors coming out of the ballast (#2). They have clips to ensure they stay connected, do not break them.
10. Test the assembly. Turn your car on and if necessary turn on your headlamps (mine come on automatically.) Ensure the light is functioning. If it is not, turn off your car and reverse the car-side power leads (#7). Re-try the test. Be sure when testing that you do not quickly turn the car on and off, as this shortens the life of HIDs.
11. Disconnect the igniter-side power (#6) and the lamp power (#5).

Reassembly:
1. The 3" hole plug you removed in step 1 above will need to be modified to allow the wires to pass through. I used the sharp knife to cut two crosses in two of the bottom sections of the plug (it is ribbed into sections.) Pass the wires from the lamp and the car-side power through these holes. Note that the plastic holder for the blade connectors (car side power, #7) remains inside of the assembly. You will need to temporarily disconnect car-side power (#7) to run the wires through the plug.
2. Put the hole plug back in. Be sure it is sealed all around.
3. Reattach the parking-lamp plug.
4. Slide the entire assembly back into the car. Be sure the rubber trim around the lens cover is secure. It is easy to pull this lose. Go slow.
5. You now need to prepare a mounting surface for the igniter and ballast. There is a large flat surface just outboard of the oil cooler in front of the tire. Clean this with alcohol and the clean rag. The igniter (#1) will go there, toward the top of the surface.
6. For the ballast (#2) there is a section of the clam where the headlamp assembly resides which is suitable. It is on the outboard side of the assembly and has tall ribs on it. The middle one is just large enough to hold the ballast in it. Clean this with alcohol.
7. Satisfy yourself that the igniter and ballast placement will let you hook up all the necessary wires before proceeding.
8. Clean the bottom of the igniter and ballast with alcohol.
9. Cut two strips of mounting tape and attach them to the bottom of the igniter.
10. Attach the igniter to the surface prepared in step #5, toward the top. The plugs should be facing back toward the tire. Make sure it is solidly attached. You should not be able to pry it off easily.
11. Cut a small strip of mounting tape and attach it to the bottom of the ballast.
12. Attach the igniter to the area selected in step #7. Make sure it is solidly attached.
13. Connect the igniter-side power (#6) to the igniter (#1). Connect the lamp-side power (#5) to the ballast (#2).
14. Test your lights one more time.
15. If your wires are hanging loose, use zip ties or twist ties to affix them to the side-marker wiring harness which should be right there.
16. Re-affix the 3 17mm hex nuts with washers, and the 8mm nylock hex nut. Do not over tighten. If you wish to re-aim your lights, now is the time to do it.
17. Slide the fender panel up into the wheel well. The tab at the top should slide above the top fender panel, and the bottom should come up and rest on the lip at the bottom of the wheel well.
18. Press the bayonet fittings with washers into the two holes at the bottom of the fender panel and then put their screws back in. The screws may not really 'tighten' because it's a cheap plastic fitting. Ensure the screw is flush with the fastener.
19. Turn the wheel all the way to the left and put the last screw and washer back in.
20. One last time, verify your light is working correct.

Repeat this procedure for the other side.

Now you have the lights the car should have come with in the first place :)
 
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