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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I got done replacing the wiring going to the blower motor and made the old harness into a high (position 3) speed only connection for now. I'm going to make a little box for the new resistor pack and mount it up high for easy changing later if need be. I had the A/C evac'd before I did the work and now that I'm done I had it refilled. The fan works fine and you can hear and feel the motor change when I hit the A/C button but it doesn't get cold and the compressor doesn't kick in. Looking in from the right rear past the A/C line connects I can see what I believe is the compressor and can see that it does not engage at all. The A/C tech never saw a difference in the line pressure when we tried it at the shop either. So I went through and played with all the wire connections, 1 for the temp sensor thing inside the blower box area, two to some sensor near the drier in the front A/C lines, checked all the fuses, and the A/C button lights up. We put in 1.2 lbs or whatever the manual said.

Any ideas what else to check? I haven't put all the grills etc back on in case I have to pull the front clam again which I really want to avoid. So I have some what easy access to that area.

I've read about a tertiary switch that monitors the line pressure. I think that may be it. I lights on the buttons so I don't think it's the relay pack thing in the dash. Any way to test the tertiary thing is good or not? Should I have the shop redo the evac/refill or can they measure actual pressure? Maybe change the pressure?
 

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You could try bypassing the Trinary switch which will determine if it is faulty.
Also, if the Trinary switch is working, the pressure may be either too high or too low.
Permitted operating range is between 29 - 464 psi.
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You could try bypassing the Trinary switch which will determine if it is faulty.
Also, if the Trinary switch is working, the pressure may be either too high or too low.
Permitted operated range is between 29 - 464 psi
Michael
Trinary, that's the word I was thinking of. That's the thing with 4 wires coming out of the bottom into two plugs and located on the A/C line near the dryer right? How would I bypass it? Plug the two plugs together? I've read about someone jumping the C4 fuse to test the compressor itself which I might try.
 

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I believe you bypass it by joining the Pink to the Black, but I am not sure.
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f101/c-will-not-come-need-help-advise-74579/
Michael
Trinary, that's the word I was thinking of. That's the thing with 4 wires coming out of the bottom into two plugs and located on the A/C line near the dryer right? How would I bypass it? Plug the two plugs together? I've read about someone jumping the C4 fuse to test the compressor itself which I might try.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I jumped the C4 from another fuse spot and the compressor came on and got cold, gonna try and bypass the trinary at its connector now.
 

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Be careful, I am not sure of the consequences.
You might also check all of your fuses especially C4 & F19.
The compressor is also controlled through the SPM.
I jumped the C4 from another fuse spot and the compressor came on and got cold, gonna try and bypass the trinary at its connector now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Checked all the fuses multiple times already, then checked again anyways. It works when I jump that fuse spot with power from the driving lights fuse at C5. Tried jumping the connectors to the temp sensor as well as the trinary thing with no luck. could tell on a couple of them that the idle changed but the compressor never turned on. I had looked at the link you posted which gave me the idea of trying the jumping C4 part. On his the buttons would not light up so I think ours are different. I'm still leaning towards it being that trinary sensor since I just had the system evac'd and refilled. I think I'll try going back to the A/C shop tomorrow and having them put in 1lb to see if it works then if they can bumping it up .1 at a time to see if there's a difference.
 

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The Trinary switch is controlled also by the ECU, so that ads another element.
Checked all the fuses multiple times already, then checked again anyways. It works when I jump that fuse spot with power from the driving lights fuse at C5. Tried jumping the connectors to the temp sensor as well as the trinary thing with no luck. could tell on a couple of them that the idle changed but the compressor never turned on. I had looked at the link you posted which gave me the idea of trying the jumping C4 part. On his the buttons would not light up so I think ours are different. I'm still leaning towards it being that trinary sensor since I just had the system evac'd and refilled. I think I'll try going back to the A/C shop tomorrow and having them put in 1lb to see if it works then if they can bumping it up .1 at a time to see if there's a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Went by the shop and had them take it down .1 and up .1 and nothing. I understand a static pressure a little bit more now though. Thinking a wiring schematic might help. Can we still download the manual for the $25 one month membership?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've been waiting over half an hour and no email verifying my account for that site yet. Thank you but it's kinda hard to read. I'll probably get access whenever the paypal payment goes through.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Figured out my problem last week. I had tried to test it with the front off, then got tired of waiting and put it back on but left the wheel liners off incase I had to remove the clam again. I finally got tired of trouble shooting and went to put the liners back on that were stacked up when I found that little box on the front right liner. Plugged it in and sure enough condensor and A/C work fine now. I had missed a couple little plugs there. Simple yet annoying. So in total I paid about $100 to fix the problem myself.
 

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Figured out my problem last week. I had tried to test it with the front off, then got tired of waiting and put it back on but left the wheel liners off incase I had to remove the clam again. I finally got tired of trouble shooting and went to put the liners back on that were stacked up when I found that little box on the front right liner. Plugged it in and sure enough condensor and A/C work fine now. I had missed a couple little plugs there. Simple yet annoying. So in total I paid about $100 to fix the problem myself.
Do you happen to remember what the box that you missed under the right wheel well looked like? Or exactly where it was? I'm in the same boat as I got rid of my bad resistor pack and had my AC refilled by a shop. My AC light comes on blue but the compressor does not start.

I haven't tried jumping the fuses as I'm not exactly sure how to so that.
 

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Do you happen to remember what the box that you missed under the right wheel well looked like? Or exactly where it was? I'm in the same boat as I got rid of my bad resistor pack and had my AC refilled by a shop. My AC light comes on blue but the compressor does not start.

I haven't tried jumping the fuses as I'm not exactly sure how to so that.
Here it is next to the fuse box.
Michael
 

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Thanks! I have those two plugged in. I'm leaning towards either the switch pack module or a/c relay switch being the issue. I have no leaks and everything worked before I did the resistor pack delete. I thought I had just missed something but have now read all of the diagrams and it looks like everything is plugged in correctly.
 

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Anyone ever resolved these exact same problems WITH the relay connected properly? I've been troubleshooting this AC for months now. Tried new relay (box with 2 plugs) and nothing. AC light is on, pressure is correct, but compressor won't kick on (well sometimes it will for only a few seconds). I'm one step from replacing the compressor, but that doesn't look easy and I simply don't have the garage space for removing the clam. Plus I doubt that's the problem this car has only 14k miles.

Help.
 

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AC compressor has been replaced, but I still have the problem. I tried looking for the Trinary switch and I think I found it, but everything looks ok?
 

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We have at least two threads running on this, but I will do the belt-and-braces thing here:

Sometimes when the AC is off, I push the AC button, it won't light and turn on the cold.

Sometimes when the AC is on, I push the AC button, it won't tun OFF the light and turn OFF the cold. When this happens, turning off the blower always kills the blue light and the cold.
 
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