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on my 2005 Elise When i turn the Air on Nothin comes out of the vents If i Push the A/c button the comprsser turns on but still no air please help
 

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I have no experience with it on an elise, but I'd be chasing after the wires with a multi/volt meter, starting with wherever it's most accesable..
May not be the easiest route, but it's promised to pin down the area where the problem arises.
 

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Did you have the drainage holes drilled in the floor? the AC resistor pack sits in an area where condensation can accumulate and fry the pack. There was a service bulletin on it.

Tom
 

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Lotus dealer is currently dealing with this on my car. Fans kick on in 1, 2 mode but in selection 3 it goes off. They replaced the switch and that didn't fix it, they found it to be a resistor pack and so that is currently on order.
 

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The resistor pack replacement is a dice and splice job. Lotus won't replace the entire harness and makes the techs splice into the old one (watched a tech doing it while he complained the entire time). It's much better to have the HVAC floor holes drilled to avoid the resistor pack failure to begin with...
 

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I'm going through this right now. Yesterday I turned the AC on and nothing happened.... no blower at all. What is the easiest way to get to the resister pack? I just got the car and don't have a workshop manual yet!
 

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Okay, the blower motor has a regulator on it you have to pull the clam, behind the carbon crash structure, the unit is in the bottom of the hole. It's a little silver box about 4" x 2"

<a href="http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/cinesnow/?action=view&current=Picture2-1.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/cinesnow/Picture2-1.png" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 

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The first place you want to start is in the fuse panel marked "C1"

<a href="http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/cinesnow/?action=view&current=Picture5.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/cinesnow/Picture5.png" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

According the diagram, putting the key to the first or any other position will send power to the rheostat (fan speed swich) on the third page.

<a href="http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/cinesnow/?action=view&current=Picture3.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/cinesnow/Picture3.png" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/cinesnow/?action=view&current=Picture2-2.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/cinesnow/Picture2-2.png" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

have your volt meter, and a flashlight handy as well as a good looking massage therapist =) pull the fuse for C1, It's under the dash, there's 3 or 4 little boxes with caps on them, it's one of the black 2 one's with a cap on them (from memory)

Pull C1, then turn the key to position 1 or 2, and verify that there is 12v.
From there, if you have power, if you are still no bueno - you can jump the fan with an external 12v. source (another battery) in the C1 port. Just make sure the fan speed swich is on.

If it STILL dosen't jump, go buy a 6-pack & get ready to pull your clam, you'll have to call lotus to order the regulator which is in the worst possible place in the car =( . . .
 

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I guess before you jump down the rabbit hole, make sure your'e fuse isn't blown? Iv'e seen these symptoms a few times, the result is always the same.

Best of luck, Marc
 

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A couple of small corrections...

Okay, the blower motor has a regulator on it you have to pull the clam, behind the carbon crash structure,
It's not a "regulator", it's a resistor pack. It's not on the motor, but in the bottom of the chassis. It uses resistors to drop the voltage to lower levels to run the fan motor at a lower speed.

And most importantly, it's not a carbon crash structure. People often confuse that - it's simply a fiberglass crash structure that is made using black fiberglass 9or at least painted black. Beside the confusion caused by the black color, Lotus also developed a similar carbon fiber crash structure that is used on Aston Martins (Lotus makes it for them) - it's similar in appearance and works on the same theories as the fiberglass ones used in our cars.

will send power to the rheostat (fan speed switch) on the third page.
The fan speed switch is not a rheostat. A rheostat varies the resistance depending on how much you turn it (think volume control). The fan speed switch is simply a four position switch (off counts as a position). Each switch position feeds the full 12 Volts to a separate input of the resistor pack (that's located at the bottom of the chassis behind the crash structure). The resistor pack reduces the voltage to three specific values to provide three different fan speeds.


By the way, the new resistor pack is improved. The original one is mounted at the bottom of the chassis (on the top side of the bottom). Water collects down there and when it gets deep enough, it "floods" the resistor pack and causes corrosion and causes it to fail. The new improved resistor pack is better sealed so that water cannot get into it (at least no easily) and it doesn't corrode as easily. But you still need to drill the four drain holes into the bottom of the chassis according to the Factory Service Bulletin.
 

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That hurt more than calling the base Bilstein's "touring shocks" - haha
My apologies, I knew I typo-d rheostat for swich after I wrote it & read it back.

Tim, Good Call. :D
 

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Alright, thanks for the help guys. There is no voltage on C1, but there is on C3 so that is fine. I'll try to add 12V directly (don't have a battery handy though) and make sure the fan comes on as it is supposed to.

All signs point to the resistor pack so far though so that is probably where I'll end up. A nice little project ahead of me.
 

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One small correction Tim, the resistor pack reduces the voltage to two lower levels, speed 1 & 2 . The highest speed, 3, is at 12V and not reduced :)
The resistor pack reduces the voltage to three specific values to provide three different fan speeds.
 

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That hurt more than calling the base Bilstein's "touring shocks" - haha
My apologies, I knew I typo-d rheostat for swich after I wrote it & read it back.

Tim, Good Call. :D
rotfl Still have to thwack you for even mentioning it... :thwack:

One small correction Tim, the resistor pack reduces the voltage to two lower levels, speed 1 & 2 . The highest speed, 3, is at 12V and not reduced :)
Doh... I know that... :eek:

I hate it when I do stupid things like that. :bow:
 
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