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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a used Evora S and it's already having issues with A/C. Here's symptoms:

Carfax showed A/C service 2 months before I bought it.

When test driving, A/C blew hot air.

Dealership recharged A/C when purchased and it worked fine for 5 months until now.

Was driving on a long spirited drive and air started to steadily get warmer. On my way home with traffic lights and slower driving, air cooled down again.

Car sat for 2 weeks, drove 45 minutes, let car sit for 1 hr, drove another 45 minutes, air blew hot entire time in all types of driving.

It seems to be a leak, but any other suggestions?
 

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Definitely a leak somewhere. I'd fill with a UV dye and then give it a few days before checking. Start at the condenser.
 

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Posts like this are kinda useless in that you can't really diagnose a car based on something not working. Kinda like a check engine light. Could be anything till you find out.

Based on information you have given first thing you need to find out is if you still have pressure in your system or did it all leak out.

Till you find that out, is the compressor engaging? Do the cooling fans come on? Is the mixing working properly where you can go from hot to cool?
 

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Scott M
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I don't mean to high-jack someone else's thread, but does a bit of weeping on a black knob/valve(?) line behind the front right wheel indicate an obvious AC issue looming?
 

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A relevant thread which you may find helpful with your concern.
 

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I don't mean to high-jack someone else's thread, but does a bit of weeping on a black knob/valve(?) line behind the front right wheel indicate an obvious AC issue looming?
If you mean one of the service port Schrader valves, then yes. The seal on the core is probably bad. Luckily, you can replace the valve cores without having to purge the system if you use a valve core removal/install kit like a Mastercool. Not sure what size cores our cars use, so it might be best to get an assortment.
 

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If you mean one of the service port Schrader valves, then yes. The seal on the core is probably bad. Luckily, you can replace the valve cores without having to purge the system if you use a valve core removal/install kit like a Mastercool. Not sure what size cores our cars use, so it might be best to get an assortment.
How would you R&R the valve core without all the refrigerant escaping? Just curious.
 

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How would you R&R the valve core without all the refrigerant escaping? Just curious.
Those Mastercool valve core kits have a quick-disconnect fitting, then a ball valve, and then a sealed sliding shaft that holds the core. So the whole gadget is under pressure while you're taking the core out, and then it seals off the line, allowing you to extract the bad core and put a new one in, and then you reverse the process. A very small amount of refrigerant is lost, and it introduces a very small amount of air to the system, but it shouldn't be more than the receiver/drier could handle.

Very neat invention. Wish they were around years ago when I had to do that on my MR2.

 

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Those Mastercool valve core kits have a quick-disconnect fitting, then a ball valve, and then a sealed sliding shaft that holds the core. So the whole gadget is under pressure while you're taking the core out, and then it seals off the line, allowing you to extract the bad core and put a new one in, and then you reverse the process. A very small amount of refrigerant is lost, and it introduces a very small amount of air to the system, but it shouldn't be more than the receiver/drier could handle.

Very neat invention. Wish they were around years ago when I had to do that on my MR2.

Ok, that's pretty neat.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will take it in on Monday and they will tell me. I think its worth documenting for current owners and prospective buyers. If I knew the AC failure was so prevelant, I may have made a different choice.
 

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I will take it in on Monday and they will tell me. I think its worth documenting for current owners and prospective buyers. If I knew the AC failure was so prevelant, I may have made a different choice.
Aside from the condenser joint service bulletin, I don't think the A/C system in these cars are more or less prone to problems vs everything else. Most of the leaks come from the condenser, as it's the most frontward component, and it tends to catch rocks and road debris. But that's the same in 99% of vehicles on the road today.

Hopefully it's something minor, and it'll get taken care of and you can enjoy the car to its fullest.
 

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The first thing that failed on my wife's 2003 Accord - rock in the condenser core.... It has a screen in front of it now.....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Aside from the condenser joint service bulletin, I don't think the A/C system in these cars are more or less prone to problems vs everything else. Most of the leaks come from the condenser, as it's the most frontward component, and it tends to catch rocks and road debris. But that's the same in 99% of vehicles on the road today.

Hopefully it's something minor, and it'll get taken care of and you can enjoy the car to its fullest.
Unless I'm off on my research isn't the condensor a 12 hour job? Not covered by Lotus?
 

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Unless I'm off on my research isn't the condensor a 12 hour job? Not covered by Lotus?
3.2 hours in the official labor time book. Not including the time to remove/refit the under tray and cowling. But it does include the time to evac and recharge.

And not likely covered by Lotus (very few things are ever covered on a used vehicle that's out of warranty). I believe some early cars had the condensers replaced under warranty, but that was for build defects.
 

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I experienced a similar thing when I purchased my 2014 S. Turns out the shop that serviced the a/c over charged the unit and it would not cool. long shot but it took the Lotus dealer to figure this out.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update. Shop ran leak test with dye. The refrigerant was very low but not empty. All other parts worked as they should. There was no visible leaking that they could see with the dye, so they asked me to keep it and bring it back next week to see if the dye produces anything over the week.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update 2, car blew more hot air by this morning when I took it back. They re-ran the test. Noticed that the dye showed up in large quantities around the valves. Ironically the person who asked that question earlier thinking they high jacked the thread actually had the answer. I bring it back next week to be certain. In the meantime I need to shore up the mesh while the condensor is still good.
 

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Scott M
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Update 2, car blew more hot air by this morning when I took it back. They re-ran the test. Noticed that the dye showed up in large quantities around the valves. Ironically the person who asked that question earlier thinking they high jacked the thread actually had the answer. I bring it back next week to be certain. In the meantime I need to shore up the mesh while the condensor is still good.
Haha. I take zero credit for any answers.😉
It’s just coincidence mine is leaking in the same place. Nice to hear you know the problem. Would love to know hours and /or repair expenses when you’re done. Always helps to have a relevant reference point for what I could be facing.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Valves were 3 dollars a piece. The labor to figure it all out, I'm praying only a couple of shop hours.
 
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