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Todd,
You mention it in post #5, but here is a photo.
Michael
Mike

I live just across the state line from Jacksonville FL on I-95, I looked for the module next to the main fuse box under the passenger side service panel and did not see it ? I thought it was attached to the passenger side front wheel liner sitting on a little shelf ?

I am afraid to do more bypassing to tell the truth, I was nervous about jumping that 7.5 amp C4 fuse but I needed the compressor to run to see the pressures. No other owners close by, nearest is in Jax and I would not want to ask him to take a part off his car just to try on mine, now on the other hand if you want to drop your spare in the mail to me I would not mind it :)

Todd
 

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With a low side pressure of 44 psig you have the system overcharged. The evaporator temperature at that pressure is limited to about 50 ºF. You won't get good cooling at that temperature. You'll need to go to an A/C shop that can do environmentally responsible refrigerant recovery to get the charge correct now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Dropped off theLotus is at the dealership just after 9 this morning, they are fixing the a/c doing a general service and who knows maybe it will blow colder than it ever has before.

Todd :)
 

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Lets us know the cause of the problem.
Michael
Dropped off theLotus is at the dealership just after 9 this morning, they are fixing the a/c doing a general service and who knows maybe it will blow colder than it ever has before.

Todd :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Happy day's are here again, well almost. Got the call from the dealership today that car is now ready for pick up. I am on the way down in the morning to get it, he told me that a switch relay was the problem, (not the a/c relay module) , it provides power to the two push button switches as well as some other stuff like the lights and alarm on the car, anyhow it is replaced now, a/c recharged , pedal return spring which they found broken fixed, and my shifter which had a problem with the little reverse thingy fixed, a recall to drill some holes underneath taken care of, a oil change and inspection and a detail all for the low low price of $385.00 american.......

Yay for me.

Todd :)
 

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Yep...they are probably referring to the "Switch Pack Module", under the dash top, behind the instruments. Glad your good to go.
Michael
Happy day's are here again, well almost. Got the call from the dealership today that car is now ready for pick up. I am on the way down in the morning to get it, he told me that a switch relay was the problem, (not the a/c relay module) , it provides power to the two push button switches as well as some other stuff like the lights and alarm on the car, anyhow it is replaced now, a/c recharged , pedal return spring which they found broken fixed, and my shifter which had a problem with the little reverse thingy fixed, a recall to drill some holes underneath taken care of, a oil change and inspection and a detail all for the low low price of $385.00 american.......

Yay for me.

Todd :)
 

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Cool!

Literally, Cool!

I'm glad to read it worked out well. :coolnana:
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Mike are you an ex-lotus mechanic or something, you got the answers down...lol

I found some "fat mat / dyna mat" tucked away in my shop that I was using for a sound deadener on an old 911 that I have, would that work to insulate the firewall you think, or should I go to Lowes/Home Depot for some of that stuff like you used. The fat mat is aluminum foil backed with rubber on the other side and is self sticky, it is about 1/4 inch thick.

What do you think ?

Todd :)

Our dealer up here in Jax is World Imports he has quite a few cars in stock too, and is taking Evo orders already.
 

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Todd,
No, I am just an enthusiast with an insatiable desire to understand. I was an electrical design engineer who was also involved with security.
I think it is more important to insulate the sills, where all those hot pipes reside, than the front firewall. Dyna Mat's intended use is acoustical, not temperature insulation. If you intended to insulate I would purchase the correct material.
Cheers,
Michael

Mike are you an ex-lotus mechanic or something, you got the answers down...lol

I found some "fat mat / dyna mat" tucked away in my shop that I was using for a sound deadener on an old 911 that I have, would that work to insulate the firewall you think, or should I go to Lowes/Home Depot for some of that stuff like you used. The fat mat is aluminum foil backed with rubber on the other side and is self sticky, it is about 1/4 inch thick.

What do you think ?

Todd :)

Our dealer up here in Jax is World Imports he has quite a few cars in stock too, and is taking Evo orders already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Hi Mike

Ok, I will save the dyna/fat mat for another project and hit up either Lowes/Home Depot for the stuff today, will post back on the drive home for my a/c readings.

Todd
 

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Todd,
I just want you to be aware that installing the fabric over the insulation takes care, precision and involves a few tricks. It is easy to screw up, ask me how I know :eek:. I made up a paper template for the whole inside sill area. BTW, my vent temps, after a few miles are in the low 40's and eventually settles in the very low 50's, while the ambient outside is abut 90'
Michael
Hi Mike
Ok, I will save the dyna/fat mat for another project and hit up either Lowes/Home Depot for the stuff today, will post back on the drive home for my a/c readings.
Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
Got my car back.

Hello Mike,

Ok stopped at Home Depot and purchased one roll of the insulation from the Duct isle, it is 12 inches wide and 15 feet long for around $20.00

Temp in Jacksonville is 95 degrees with a heat index of 102 degrees today.

Wife and I drove our new Ford pickup to dealer, a/c in the Ford with just over 1 K miles was 44 degrees never varied. (measured with digital cooking thermometer)

I picked up my car at the dealer and took wifes digital cooking thermometer with me. I cranked up the car for the drive home about 45 minutes on I-95 and here is what I got.

On start up, engine cold, a/c set temp control on full cold, fan on 3 and selector on the center vent position, recirc button lit it was 53 degrees.

Engine warmed up on drive home, at 80 MPH on I-95 same settings as above temp went up to 63-64 degrees and stayed there at some points it would go up as high as 68 degrees then come back down, when I got off the interstate and sat at the stop sign at the bottom of the ramp the temp dropped down to 58 degrees but then went back up to 63 for the couple of miles of street driving to my house.

Overall this situation SUCKS, if it would just stay at 53 I would be dancing in the street, the heat from the firewall and side sills is amazing, plus the windshield. I have my HARD TOP installed and I dont take it off (ever).

If you turn off the a/c there is alot of heat coming out of the vents even sitting dead still, I think that this is causing some of the problem.

I have opened the box and verified the flaps shut, did that last summer, also moved the temp sensor arm a short distance from the fins on the condensor thingy it had been touching them.

After reading numerous postings I do not believe that doing the electronic thermostat will help me, after the stuff I did last summer I do not believe I have any ice up problem.

Todd

PS...sorry for the longish posting :wallbang:
 

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Todd, I experienced the same as you before I did all my mods, I strongly suggest you do them all. Just came back from a ride, temp. was 90' and the vent started out at 45' and then stabilized at 52'.
Michael
Hello Mike,

Ok stopped at Home Depot and purchased one roll of the insulation from the Duct isle, it is 12 inches wide and 15 feet long for around $20.00

Temp in Jacksonville is 95 degrees with a heat index of 102 degrees today.

Wife and I drove our new Ford pickup to dealer, a/c in the Ford with just over 1 K miles was 44 degrees never varied. (measured with digital cooking thermometer)

I picked up my car at the dealer and took wifes digital cooking thermometer with me. I cranked up the car for the drive home about 45 minutes on I-95 and here is what I got.

On start up, engine cold, a/c set temp control on full cold, fan on 3 and selector on the center vent position, recirc button lit it was 53 degrees.

Engine warmed up on drive home, at 80 MPH on I-95 same settings as above temp went up to 63-64 degrees and stayed there at some points it would go up as high as 68 degrees then come back down, when I got off the interstate and sat at the stop sign at the bottom of the ramp the temp dropped down to 58 degrees but then went back up to 63 for the couple of miles of street driving to my house.

Overall this situation SUCKS, if it would just stay at 53 I would be dancing in the street, the heat from the firewall and side sills is amazing, plus the windshield. I have my HARD TOP installed and I dont take it off (ever).

If you turn off the a/c there is alot of heat coming out of the vents even sitting dead still, I think that this is causing some of the problem.

I have opened the box and verified the flaps shut, did that last summer, also moved the temp sensor arm a short distance from the fins on the condensor thingy it had been touching them.

After reading numerous postings I do not believe that doing the electronic thermostat will help me, after the stuff I did last summer I do not believe I have any ice up problem.

Todd

PS...sorry for the longish posting :wallbang:
 
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