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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, a few questions on BOE 300/400 kits I haven’t been able to find in other threads:

- How much weight does BOE 300 add to the car compared to NA? And the 400? For those of you who came from NA, did you notice the weight?

- I’m not a fan of supercharger whine... sounds like the TVS blower doesn’t make much noise?

- Are people seeing heat soak issues in hot climates, e.g. track days in 100F+ weather with the 300 kit? (i.e. no intercooler)

- Sounds like an open diff is fine with the 300 kit? What about the 400?

- Are people happy with stock (NA) brake disks on track with the 300 kit? 400?

Thanks, and sorry if I’ve missed threads on these elsewhere!
 

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- How much weight does BOE 300 add to the car compared to NA? And the 400? For those of you who came from NA, did you notice the weight?

- I’m not a fan of supercharger whine... sounds like the TVS blower doesn’t make much noise?

- Are people seeing heat soak issues in hot climates, e.g. track days in 100F+ weather with the 300 kit? (i.e. no intercooler)

- Sounds like an open diff is fine with the 300 kit? What about the 400?

- Are people happy with stock (NA) brake disks on track with the 300 kit? 400?

Thanks, and sorry if I’ve missed threads on these elsewhere!
The 300 weight is minimal and placed toward the center of the car, not towards trunk. No one would notice anything but that the car is really fast.

I don't have 400 and didn't want the attendant intercooling & plumbing.

Love the very slight noise. Heat soak, can't answer but BOE would know.

Better pads help brakes in every car. I use Hawk and car stops very well.


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I probably get some heat soak with my Rev300 in the summer (Georgia can have 90+ days and let's not even talk about the humidity), but the performance is still better than NA. I am definitely faster now, so I am moving up to more aggressive brake pads. I went aftermarket for the brake disks right after getting the Elise, so I couldn't say about stock disks beyond that I would upgrade brakes before upgrading power.
 

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I'm always going to opt for an intercooler with forced induction. It's a no-brainer.

SC whine is my friend, so we'll have to disagree there.

I went with the 4-wheel AP Racing BBK kit before I added power. Stupid stopping power.

San
 

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The weight is a none issue, and as far as SC whine, I don’t hear any. What I do hear is the intake which sounds a bit like a whistle, but in no way annoying, I actually like it. I can’t comment on heat soak, did a couple of track days last year in 75 degree weather and didn’t notice any loss of power, what I did notice was how much easier the car was to drive with the added torque and that I arrived at the corners faster than when I was NA. The stock brakes with Ferodo DS 2500 do a good job, but keep in mind, our track is only 1.5 miles long with 19 turns, so no braking from 150 m/h.?
 
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Borrowed the club scales and here's the weight on my 2006 REV300 today with 160# in each seat and half a tank of fuel. PPE headers and ST-5 helped offset some of the SC weight along with many extras from previous owner.
 

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purveyor of lightness
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My history / weights / hp...

2007 MP62 (Greddy manifold, reflash) 19.39 lbs. more than stock (~230whp)
2009 TVS1320 (Greddy manifold, EFI) 28.77 lbs. more than stock (~280whp)
2011 TVS1320 (REV400 new manifold, side hex) 52.72 lbs. more than stock (~330whp)
2018 2.3 Whipple (REVX, front hex + water lines) 68.54 lbs. more than stock (~380whp)

Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks all—really appreciate the input. Keep it coming!

darkSol, good to hear from you! Super appreciate it all the weights you track. So looks like the BOE 300 kit is in the neighborhood of +30 lbs?

Are most of you running open diff on your SC’d cars?
 

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- Are people seeing heat soak issues in hot climates, e.g. track days in 100F+ weather with the 300 kit? (i.e. no intercooler)
You bet. Depending on the ambient temp you'll see heat soak. I'm in Illinois and typically run the Autobahn Country Club (not a member) in Joliet. July/Aug I will be down power on my 3rd run compared to my 2nd if it's really hot out. A fan, bags of ice, electric water pump are your friends between runs to cool down quickly.

I upgraded to the REV400 w/ Front HEX to help mitigate this.
 

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I'd estimate the rev300 kit at around 48lbs? My shipping info said the shipped package was 61lbs (incl all packaging) so maybe a bit more. I don't think i can sense the additional weight.
I don't track the car so no comment on diffs or heatsoak, but i was really surprised by the noise. I had hoped for only a subtle whine, and i don't like the sound of the Mp62's crazy whine I've heard on youtube at all. my rev300 is much louder than i was lead to believe it was going to be (I'm on the factory exhaust though) but i really like it. it blends with the engine noise and isn't too loud that it overpowers it. I suspect with a loud exhaust it would be much less noticeable. Often the loudest noise is the whistling itg intake, which i hated at first, but now i also quite like also! The car sounds really exotic when i'm just cruising and blip the throttle for a down change coming into an intersection, you get the mild flare of revs mixed with just the right amount of whine....it sounds like nothing else in those situations.
Supposedly the rev300 is meant to resist heat soak more than a factory intercooled mp62.
 

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With the REV300 full heat operating temps tend to be 100-120F over ambient at 10psi.
Non-intercooled MP62s typically run 7psi boost and about the same temps.

The difference with the REV300 (TVS1320) is that it's more efficient resulting in an additional 3PSI boost pressure without additional temperature over the MP62.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sege, thanks for the thoughts on the noise! I’ve come to learn there’s good noise and bad noise after playing with sound damping and exhaust.

Mwehness, that makes sense, thx.
 

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re-reading my post, i should clarify: It's much louder than i was lead to believe because reading some older posts on hear a few people said it was barely audible at all. It's clearly audible on my car, but doesn't overwhelm the rest of the engine noise at all. Its good! :)
 

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The TVS whine is less than the MP62 whine IMHO and only noticeable at WOT. The power is SO much better you have no idea until you drive it. I just feels like a bigger motor behind you, no lag etc. etc. As far as Diff goes, all things are possible. I like the Quaife diff and I think it is better all around than the open. However, you can certainly do track days with open, no worries. Maybe some one legging out of tight corners and on autoX course. Our stiffer front swaybar helps plant the inside rear. Ultimately, you can do a diff if you want to down the road. I would recommend if you decide to do it, you do the clutch and the flywheel at the same time since the transmission is out it is a quick job. I recommend the ACT HD-SS and our flywheel. Clutch feels like stock, no chatter, and holds way better. Lighter flywheel helps offset the rotating mass of the blower to maintain throttle response.
 

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@fzust When you say the TVS whine is only noticeable at WOT is that on a car with a louder than factory exhaust? I'm on the factory exhaust so i guess as quiet as you can get and i can clearly hear the charger at part and light throttle. Just wondering if my rev300 is louder than normal? and if so, if that's anything to be concerned about?
 

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@fzust When you say the TVS whine is only noticeable at WOT is that on a car with a louder than factory exhaust? I'm on the factory exhaust so i guess as quiet as you can get and i can clearly hear the charger at part and light throttle. Just wondering if my rev300 is louder than normal? and if so, if that's anything to be concerned about?
I guess I don't really think about it that hard. I have the ITG CAI on it so that is noisier than the stock airbox. You shouldn't hear metal on metal chirping or anything like that. My exhaust is a larini Group B so pretty comparable to stock at light load. I guess I would say if I can hear it, it isn't crazy loud or annoying, Like a riced out BOV or some such. For the OP, if you're super-sensitive to such things, don't do it. If you want to minimize it, keep the stock airbox, but it really isn't a big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Great thanks for all the input—super helpful.

Another one.. I’m getting the 300. Are you folks with the 300 or 400 benfitting from a taller final drive in the transmission? As I understand them:

1. OEM ratio- 4.5:1
2. 5% longer ratio- 4.3:1
3. 15% longer ratio- 3.9:1

Maybe #2 or #3 good with more torque/power for mixed street and track use?
 

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purveyor of lightness
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Great thanks for all the input—super helpful.

Another one.. I’m getting the 300. Are you folks with the 300 or 400 benfitting from a taller final drive in the transmission? As I understand them:

1. OEM ratio- 4.5:1
2. 5% longer ratio- 4.3:1
3. 15% longer ratio- 3.9:1

Maybe #2 or #3 good with more torque/power for mixed street and track use?
I have @fzust (BWR's) nuclear transmission with the MR2 Spyder 4.312 final drive, REM process and a Quaife LSD. It is nothing but amazing :) I also have the BOE RevX so it was basically a necessity... 300lb/ft of torque... :sneaky:
 

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Great thanks for all the input—super helpful.

Another one.. I’m getting the 300. Are you folks with the 300 or 400 benfitting from a taller final drive in the transmission? As I understand them:

1. OEM ratio- 4.5:1
2. 5% longer ratio- 4.3:1
3. 15% longer ratio- 3.9:1

Maybe #2 or #3 good with more torque/power for mixed street and track use?
I don't think it's worth changing final drive. Yes, a little better gas mileage and lower revs on hwy. But, slower acceleration.
 
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