The Lotus Cars Community banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
913 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Two questions, when you guys work on your engine underneath where do you jack from? I've been using the jack points, I have two nice floor jacks, and I always lift it evenly from both sides (my thinking is the car is fiberglass and I dont want the body to flex and possibly crack any glass).

Secondly, I have never had the factory under engine tray, I fabricated one from a thin piece of sheet steel, but I made it solid, I was wondering if anyone could post a photo of the original on a 4 cylinder car so I could cut out the crank pulley area, or the areas to the left and right of it, if it is that way from the factory as to keep the original "breathing" of the engine from under the car.

I think the reason I didnt have a engine tray is most of the threaded inserts were shot upon buying the car, I have since obviously fixed them.
 

·
Wingless Wonder
1988 Esprit Turbo
Joined
·
6,083 Posts
Mark,


The jack points on the sills are OK to use, just keep the pressure even on both sides to minimize the creaking, as you have been doing.

Easier to just use a floor jack under the rear chassis hoop, then steady the car with jackstands under the sills IMO.





Regards the undertray, I thought I posted this engine-side pic a few months ago. My tray is currently off the car so if you want some different angles let me know.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,976 Posts
Two questions, when you guys work on your engine underneath where do you jack from? I've been using the jack points, I have two nice floor jacks, and I always lift it evenly from both sides (my thinking is the car is fiberglass and I dont want the body to flex and possibly crack any glass).

Secondly, I have never had the factory under engine tray, I fabricated one from a thin piece of sheet steel, but I made it solid, I was wondering if anyone could post a photo of the original on a 4 cylinder car so I could cut out the crank pulley area, or the areas to the left and right of it, if it is that way from the factory as to keep the original "breathing" of the engine from under the car.

I think the reason I didnt have a engine tray is most of the threaded inserts were shot upon buying the car, I have since obviously fixed them.
Think there is oen for sale on ebay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
913 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks for the picture Atwell, I didnt know if the crank pulley area is open or completely closed off underneath, the one I made is just a flat solid piece of sheet steel, but it is heavy enuf so it does not overly flex when I lift it to install it and remove it.

I saw the one for sale on ebay recently, as this is part I've been looking for, but it does not appear to be the long straight at the front, it must be for a different year.

My under tray photo:
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,030 Posts
I pulled my tray to recharge my R134 and remembered that Mark needed some pictures - Atwell's picture shows the nice gaskets to protect the gas tanks from moisture.

Not sure how critical, but Mark's panel doesn't quite stretch back to kick up about 30 degrees and seal off areas near the side sill vent air flow ports and the front of the oil pan

For low speeds (under 40 MPH), probably doesn't matter. But for long highway trips, seems like the side sill airflow will not reach the oil pan without some panel deflection in place.

I put a tape measure on the various point so Mark can cut his steel panel in the correct (approximate) areas. Not sure if that may cause his steel panel to resonate (without putting in stiffening ribs/indentations as seen in the fiberglass).

Overall width 48.55 "- left hole 9" tall from 6.75" to 24.25" slight rearward offset in 2nd hole - see pic



Full set of pictures at:


Lotus_88_esprit_undertray Photos by eberin | Photobucket
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
913 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the clear photo of the panel, im more than likely going to cut out the sections in my fabbed panel the next time I have to pull it. I was thinking I could just tack weld or rivet in support where it needs it to keep it from flapping if needed since it is steel and not plastic like the original.

I have not touched the Esprit since I did my timing belt, I have just been driving it as "maintenance free".

Im sure I will do something to it before long though.
 

·
Cal H
Joined
·
982 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
48 Posts
The auction ended last week and...
They are re-posted. Ten for $15 is about the same as local prices for similar at Fastenal or Farm & Fleet, so seems a fair price. These look a little different probably because they are for fiberglass rather than everything else.
Holes I am interested in are 12-13mm tho.

Thanks for responding and the link.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top