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Premium Member
289 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was driving around yesterday (took hard top off for the first time*....only took about 30 minutes to figure that out) and my brakes started to feel super mushy. I carefully drove over to A1 and arrived about 4pm. They immediately checked the brakes and brake fluid. The brakes were ok but they noticed the fluid was even though they were busy repairing other cars they did a complete brake fluid flush and I was on my way in less than one hour. The price was amazing too, much less than I expected. Harry and his staff are simply wonderful. :clap:

*Driving topless was super cool, really felt like I was in a full-on race car.


Premium Member
11,897 Posts
Sounds like a good shop.

But, it's owner's responsibility to keep track of req'd maintenance. (I use a Word doc for each machine.)

Brake fluid looks "dirty" because rubber bits from seals get into the fluid.

BF is hygroscopic; absorbs water from atmosphere. Water is NG for seals.

I do the complete drain/refill annually.

How to Bleed Brakes (& clutch):

Note that many people disagree with my method, so judge for yourself.

Taught to me by semi-famous Toyota engineer, who built championship winning cars and bikes.

1. Get Sears brake bleed kit (canister, hoses, adaptors for bleed valves) and their hand vacuum pump. Kits there have both components. Inexpensive.

2. Pour a little b/f in canister, hook up hoses and use the tightest adaptor you can.

3. Pump vacuum to 20-25” with bleeder valve closed.

4. Tap caliper with small hammer or similar. This releases the air bubbles clinging to the caliper into the stream. WHATEVER method you use, DON’T skip this step.

5. Open bleed valve.

6. When vacuum is almost (but not completely) gone, close bleed valve.

7. Check level in master cylinder. Do this often.

8. Repeat as needed.


*Never got a firmer pedal using any other method.

*Requires only one person. Your wife/so will thank us both.

*You will not be pushing the piston in m/c into the rough area normally unused, thereby not prematurely wearing that seal. (Clutch m/cs are always used to full range.)

Note: On my Elise, I needn’t even remove the wheels.
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