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So my abs unit(SKU: A120J6000F) supposedly needs to be replaced. A tech told me that the o-rings can fail and bleed fluid into the abs computer. Used to be that the light would come on occasionally, but now comes on and stays on after a few brake pumps.

Question 1: Can it be rebuilt or is an entire replacement necessary?

Question 2: Whats the likely hood of the abs light being something else?

Note that all wires/plugs/connections have been checked and are ok.

Saw a post about the part# matching that of a volvo abs unit, but have had no luck finding one. Any pointers would be helpful.

This also seems to be a fairly common issue across the globe with these units failing... :shrug:
 

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Mine failed. I checked the connectors on the wheels, and they were fine. Brought it into the shop, and they pulled the code and looked at the module. They said to replace the module, so I did. It had the same symptoms as you did, as it did occasionally come on at first. Then it stayed on, after driving for a bit (not when I pumped the brakes though).
 

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So you had to replace the entire module as well and not just the top or bottom of the unit?

Thanks for the response!
 

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They just replaced the part you have listed. (ABS Control Module/Computer/Whatever you want to call it.) You can have the dealer or someone with the right tool to pull the code as well, if you want to see what it says. It's not an ODB2 Reader though, it's something else.
 

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I'm not sure there's any way for fluid to get from inside the solenoid body (bottom metal part with all the tubes) into the electrical / computer system (top plastic part) unless someone has driven a screwdriver through the whole thing. :) The valve bodies that stick up out of the solenoid block seem pretty welded in there, I don't remember seeing any o-rings for them.

The O-ring that can (and in my case did) fail was the one sealing the top computer to the bottom block - for whatever reason the front clam / windshield drains right onto (or near enough to) the back of the module and if the seal fails water gets into the electronics and produces this:



( Link: http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f259/awesome-abs-module-failure-140969/ )

Those coils are supposed to come out with the top module; they're soldered to the circuit board inside.. 7 of the 8 ripped out completely. The traces on the circuit board didn't look much better.

I'm sure it failed slowly over time for the original owner(s), by the time I got it the ABS unit was completely dead and unable to communicate with the dealer's scan tool. Found a member selling a complete unit in the For Sale section and replaced the top half (after prying off the rusted out coils and cleaning up the solenoid stems). Working fine since.. Sadly if your clam isn't already conveniently broken right above the unit, you need to remove the clam to take it apart to look inside as there isn't enough room..

The only electrical connection between the 2 halves is the 2 pins in the red connector that run the motor. So I'd guess if it's an intermittent issue replacing the top half would fix it.. The come up every so often around here..
 

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Must be the season, my seals failed this summer, replaced but now ABS light on permanently. Haven't gotten around to scanning, but pretty sure I know the result... How expensive is the new unit?
 

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I believe you don't need to take the whole front clam off from what I was told. You could take off the top access panel, and loosen a few bolts from that side of the clam, and replace it. That's what I was told, when it was replaced at the shop.
 

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That could work if the clam will flex enough.. The stems of the solenoids stick up about 1.125", so you'd need at least that much clearance above the unit to lift + remove the electronic part. Just be careful, the lip directly above it is extremely thin and cracks if you look at it funny... :) Mounted a little farther over and you could pull it without touching the clam.

Did some searching but couldn't find any online for sale.. :( New seems to be around $1k?

Shot of bottom of the electronic module (from my '05 anyway):


Shot of "good" solenoid body stems - it's metal-to-metal at the bottom of them, no seal that I can see unless it's inside the body..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Great information guys! I'll have to look into this further when I have some time.

Thanks for the posts!!!
 
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