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Thing is all the mods are kind of cumulative. IOW, do what you can it all makes it better.
You might try propping the heater door open. I think that was the single thing that did the most to increase airflow, has zero downsides, is totally reversible
I made the fancy cover because I have the equipment, but good tape and poly sheet would probably be just as effective.
 

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Oh yeah, and if I forget to open the windows while I'm at work , yow. But I don't have traffic on the way home
 

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Thing is all the mods are kind of cumulative. IOW, do what you can it all makes it better.
You might try propping the heater door open. I think that was the single thing that did the most to increase airflow, has zero downsides, is totally reversible
I made the fancy cover because I have the equipment, but good tape and poly sheet would probably be just as effective.
Have a picture/instructions on how to do this or can you point me to the best thread that details it? I'm all ears!
 

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There is an explanation here, the pic may be unclear, but open your access covers and I think you can see it,

The rod you see right under the opening for the hose is what actuates the heater[floor] flap
The rotating barrel that selects face/defroster is further towards the back of the car inside the diverter assembly, with a rod the comes forward to actuate this flap.
IF you pop the little fastener off of it and then the arm does nothing, but as I found out, it can jam. So I made a little sheet metal arm to screw it to, that it just harmlessly rotates back and forth but does nothing.
I used a drill bit in a dremel and some patience to drill a hole in the end of the floor flap arm, and put a small screw and nut on it so it jams open against the diverter box assmbly

If you take off your access panels, I think you can see what is going on. The rod that opens the floor flap pushes toward the front of the car to open it
 

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sorry to be obtuse but you are saying that heater door buried underneath the access panels obstructs the flow of air and that disconnecting the rod that actuates this flap/door will leave it 'more' open (provided you keep the rod from jamming the door) than any of the positions available via the barrel adjuster set by the face/feet/defroster switch?
 

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Not exactly

what you want is the heater door open all the time.

you can disconnect it in about 2 minutes, but it needs to be propped open.

So let me explain a little.

The diverter assembly above the passengers knees, has two things in it

one is a barrel that is run by a servo that diverts as follows:

defrost
off
face


in the center 'off' position, a rod or bar that is attached to the barrel actuates a door or flap that opens.
Imagine a clock
12 o'clock is the defrost position
6 o'clock is the face position
9 o'clock is the heat position

the hour hand on a clock is sticking 'forward' at 9 o'clock, but is the same distance 'back' at both 12 and 6 o'clock

So that hour hand is connected to the rod that you can see sticking forward, so that it pushes out only at 9 o'clock

If you take the convoluted hose off of the diverter assembly[ the top end of the hose] and stick your fingers in the hole, you can feel the heater flap open and close.

There are a number of ways to keep it open. Glue tape whathaveyou

The way I described involves nothing more complicated than a hand drill.
I am pretty sure it can be done in an hour
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
FWIW removing those covers won't solve all your AC woes. It helps with airflow a bit but if you live where it is really hot the a/c just wasn't designed to keep up. I live in Florida and at this time of the year the A/C only helps for about 15-20 minutes and then it is sweating time. Besides the heat and humidity the car itself heats up - the door sills become super hot to the touch and radiate heat. I am hoping to get my windows tinted in the new few weeks - that should help as well.
i've had my side windows tinted since i got the car and the ac has been fine until recently. i'm going to chalk it up to something about the ac unit has just gotten old and i need to replace something. i'm going to try and get things done that doesn't require a clam removal first. i'm thinking remove the both panels and tint my windshield. i figure i can leave the back window alone since it doesn't get much sun.
 

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i've had my side windows tinted since i got the car and the ac has been fine until recently. i'm going to chalk it up to something about the ac unit has just gotten old and i need to replace something. i'm going to try and get things done that doesn't require a clam removal first. i'm thinking remove the both panels and tint my windshield. i figure i can leave the back window alone since it doesn't get much sun.
Have you checked your refrigerant level. If you can't remember when the last time it was done, you probably need to evacuate the system and refill. I have found the system only can cool 20deg from outside temp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Have you checked your refrigerant level. If you can't remember when the last time it was done, you probably need to evacuate the system and refill. I have found the system only can cool 20deg from outside temp.
I actually had it done when I first noticed my ac seemingly not cooling at all. It is better now but doesn't seem to cool when idle. After some more driving yesterday, I noticed that it would cool during idle occasionally. So perhaps my issue is that it is freezing up but it is a whole lot faster than it used to be.
 

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I still recommend getting those Service Bulletins addressed. They're known issues...
 

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Darren: I'm not an attorney... Suggest contacting your nearest Dealer and ask them.
 
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