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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, got the Exige lowered by .75" the other day, and after my alignment, negative camber is at...

-.95/-1.05 Front
-1.45/-1.50 Rear

I know the front is ok because I've read about people removing the camber shims to get some more negative camber. I can attest to the car turning MUCH BETTER, and pushing quite a bit less in the corners. I'm also looking forward to more even tire wear (it wears the outside of the fronts presently).

It's the rear I have a question about. I know it's supposed to be -2.5°, which is a full degree more than I have now. The car is 100% STREET driven, feels great, drives like a dream, and I'm sure less negative camber will again, help my tire wear (rears wear the insides with factory settings).

I guess I'm asking if my rear settings are ok for a street-driven car. Any thoughts on the matter would be greatly appreciated.

I've already had a few people ask me why I would even drop the car for street use, and I have to say it's 100% for aesthetic reasons. With my current drop, and my shorter sidewalls, car looks so much more pleasing [to me], and should have come from the factory this way. Incidenally, I don't have any issues driving the car on the street, just with big-angle driveway ramps, and the car drives exactly the way it did before, it's just lower (what I wanted).

A snapshot of the car dropped.


Flyin' Low. by VisualEchos, on Flickr
 

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You'll be fine with the rear settings. My '06 Exige runs with about -1.75 +/- in the rears and -0.9 +/- in front. The fronts wear slightly faster on the inside of the tread but not enough to destroy tire life. The wear rate on the inside tread of the rear tires is noticeable and could shorten tire life if not managed. At 15,000 (the half-life that I estimated for the street tires on my car), I addressed the uneven wear rate by having the tire shop swap the front and rear tires from side-to-side (to maintain required proper directional rotation for the tires on my car) and rebalance them. The tires are now nearing about 3/4 of their life (24,000 miles) and are showing even wear across the rear tread surface.

I went with moderate negative camber, instead of say -1.5 front and -2.5 rear, because my car gets a lot of street use, and I wanted improved handling without totally killing tire wear and life. It is a compromise set-up but one that works...at least for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your response! My fronts always wear the outsides (maybe because I never use the brakes when turning *grin), so I'm hoping this will even things out.

My rears clearly wear the insides with -2.5°, so I'm hoping that the +1° will make that less. The only reason I even care is that I'm considering Cup Car slicks. Yes, yes, I am insane :D.
 

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:huh: :confused:

Oh...
+1

I frankly don't think you should be putting slicks on a street car and then using an alignment that is intended to optimize tire wear... :wallbang:

You wanna guess what's going to happen if you push that car into a corner with too little rear camber?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
+1

I frankly don't think you should be putting slicks on a street car and then using an alignment that is intended to optimize tire wear... :wallbang:

You wanna guess what's going to happen if you push that car into a corner with too little rear camber?
Maybe I should clarify that this car is my photography muse, and more importantly, I'm not an idiot. A slave to the shot maybe, but I won't be pushing anything. And I don't see anything wrong with making the tires wear evenly.

Now, got something to add? If not, then c-ya :up:.
 

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Maybe I should clarify that this car is my photography muse, and more importantly, I'm not an idiot. A slave to the shot maybe, but I won't be pushing anything. And I don't see anything wrong with making the tires wear evenly.

Now, got something to add? If not, then c-ya :up:.
Look, you're a very good photographer...

But you don't know sh!t about suspension setup.

Some day you'll swerve to avoid something... and wind up in a bad place.

Have fun... :shrug:

And don't ask for advice if you're going to abuse someone who's taken the time out to give you some.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Look, you're a very good photographer...

But you don't know sh!t about suspension setup.

Some day you'll swerve to avoid something... and wind up in a bad place.

Have fun... :shrug:

And don't ask for advice if you're going to abuse someone who's taken the time out to give you some.
I respect that you're a racer, but with all due respect, I can drive, and don't feel like I'll wind up in a bad place. Yes, it has been years since I attended the Bob Bondurant school of driving, but I think I can remember to respect the equipment enough to keep myself out of trouble.

It might pain you to know it, but I rarely even get over 45 mph in the car, as I'm usually driving to a shoot. Slicks are a bad idea, I know that, and honestly, most of my photography is so dark, I wouldn't be able to tell anyway, so the R888's are probably the better choice, but hey, I can dream.

My apologies if I ruffled your feathers.
 

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If you don't want honest advice - don't ask.

If you just want someone to tell you you're a genius and much wiser at chassis set-up then the guys in Hethel... ok

You're a genius - I'm sure your set-up will be PERFECT :bow: :clap:
 

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You know, if you set your rear toe to zero, you'll get *much* better wear on the rears... especially as they're winching it up onto the flatbed...
 

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Never been on a flatbed, and never going to be. That part is for racers, and boy-racers, and I'm neither.
:bow:

You should have bought a replica Ferrari or Cobra or something... you'd get much more bang for the buck out of your photos...

-poke-

:D
 
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