[sleekgt]

Interesting that no one on this thread has mentioned the issue of coolant type with aluminum radiators.[snip]

[snip] most recommend against using random tap water to mix with it.
[snip]
I would certainly have concerns about using other than high quality aluminum friendly antifreeze in aluminum radiators and isolate the radiator from other metals.

Randy

My mechanic says they use an aluminum friendly coolant (phosphate free) although I don't know whether they use tap or distilled. ?

I know Lotus cars are different, but I admit the seemingly fragile stereotype is still strong for me.

In my 'normal' cars, I've used tap water and keep the cars a minimum of 14 years - never had a corrosion cooling issue or leaking radiator. My 14 year old 92 Mustang was sold with its original radiator 190K miles; the 22 year old 91 Mustang got rodded at 18 years (120K miles).

Both were daily drivers like my Esprit.

The radiator repair guy (for my backup factory original brass/copper radiator) said my copper radiator looks like new on the outside - never repaired before. But it was 70% clogged - as if the coolant was never changed (I confirmed this with at least one previous owner). The car was 23 years old when I bought it and zero coolant leak.

I have the repaired radiator on standby. Going to fabricate or buy a shroud that allow upgrade to Spal fans when that day comes. I'm hoping for at least 50K miles out of this new aluminum radiator.

 

[bharper]

Best to always use distilled water because of the mineral content of regular tap water(calcium is the worst) and that distilled water is deionized (air out of it). The calcium will build up where you do not want it, and ionized water is more active on eating up stuff.

Distilled water is less that a dollar a gallon at walmart, I am going to buy probably 15 gallons or so to both flush the remaining existing engine coolant (already drained), and the chargecooler coolant, and then to mix with the new antifreeze. You should do the total flush, and also never mix antifreeze types, but after a flush you can change to whatever type you want (that is aluminum safe, and use something lotus recommends).

Should also always use distilled water if you have to add any water to a battery.

Brian

 

[sleekgt]

[snip]
Should also always use distilled water if you have to add any water to a battery.

Brian

That's about the only thing that didn't change over the decades.

But then I got a red top Optima sealed battery in the Esprit so I'm good :coolnana:

 

[Vulcan Grey]

Best to always use distilled water because of the mineral content of regular tap water(calcium is the worst) and that distilled water is deionized (air out of it). The calcium will build up where you do not want it, and ionized water is more active on eating up stuff.

Distilled water is less that a dollar a gallon at walmart, I am going to buy probably 15 gallons or so to both flush the remaining existing engine coolant (already drained), and the chargecooler coolant, and then to mix with the new antifreeze. You should do the total flush, and also never mix antifreeze types, but after a flush you can change to whatever type you want (that is aluminum safe, and use something lotus recommends).

Should also always use distilled water if you have to add any water to a battery.

Brian

Actually deionized water and distilled water are not the same. Pure distilled water will usually have a ph of 7. Deionized water will usually be more acidic since it absorbs carbon dioxide and creates carbonic acid.

The corrosion inhibitors in coolant will probably take care of this, but it is probably cheaper and better to just stick to distilled water.

Deionized water isn't deionized because the "air is out of it", deionized means that electrically charged ions and salts from dissolved minerals have been removed.

 

[bharper]

I based that assumption on my 6 1/2 gallon ultrasonic cleaner. With it, the water is supposed to be deionized after about 30-45 minutes of running, and bubbles quit being formed. I thought it was like free oxygen, but certainly stand corrected. Normally when I change the tank water, it is suggested to let it run that long to deionize before putting in parts for cleaning.

Brian

 

[sleekgt]

Rerouting partial thread back here on 1/16/2014

To recap:
1/13/2014

I forgot to update that radiator thread: the vendor replaced the radiator with a new unit (but I did have to pay labor to have it R&R).

If the replacement cracks again in 20 months, I have the original radiator/fan assembly (rodded out and cleaned) on standby.

(see rest of thread here):

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f164/aluminum-radiator-fans-198978/#post2764482

1/15/2014

The part that's killing me - the mechanic says the Elise/Exige all use aluminum aftermarket radiators *similar* to mine - without incident.

But what's not clear is if the MOUNTING method (rubber isolated - not possible with stock Esprit fiberglass tray) has something to do with it.

And since I'm one of the few running an aluminum radiator AND 1K miles/month of daily driving - I think my scenario is unknown territory for durability.

I'm going over to the shop right now to check out the status (lunchtime and only 3 miles from my work)

Just got back - test kit was ordered late in day so arriving tomorrow. The Elise uses similar radiator from same vendor without incident, so concentrating on eliminating head gasket-related cause.

If it turns out to be another radiator failure, that'll be a big disappointment.

 

[sleekgt]

2nd aluminum radiator failed 7 months after 1st unit failed after 20 months

Just got the word - my head gasket is OK - the 2nd radiator installed in June 2013 (after the Oct 2011 radiator leaked) is ALSO leaking.

I am going to have it R&R with the original copper factory unit (circa 1988 with 30K miles - rodded and boiled out a few months ago (2013)). It will also use the original fans/shroud.

No more aluminum radiators from this vendor. I will ask for a refund as the durability of the product does not warrant the premium I paid.

Regardless of refund, I will detail the issues I've had with my experience so that others can draw their own conclusions if they choose to consider one.

Given the amount of money I've spent for a professional mechanic to R&R the radiator for a 3rd time in 4 years, this aluminum radiator modification from OEM has been a very expensive lesson for me.

 

[maxvelocity]

I just use water out the RO unit in the kitchen. It is fast and easy

 

[jtrealty]

The main thing is you do not want to use hard water. The minerals will coat the insides and reduce heat transfer. In areas where the water is hard they sell pre-mixed anti-freeze so you do not need to add water. A little more expensive than mixing it yourself but convenient.
David Teitelbaum

 

[MRDANGERUS]

Yikes!
After reading all of the above, I lost my desire to install an aluminum radiator.
Besides that, Aluminum corrodes, too! Instead, cheapest 6061 alloy is used.
Corrosion resistant Alloys, like 5052, 5086 and 5083 are more expensive, which makes them unattractive to most radiator manufacturers.

 

[sleekgt]

Yikes!
After reading all of the above, I lost my desire to install an aluminum radiator.
Besides that, Aluminum corrodes, too! Instead, cheapest 6061 alloy is used.
Corrosion resistant Alloys, like 5052, 5086 and 5083 are more expensive, which makes them unattractive to most radiator manufacturers.

I've heard stories in 2021 that say my case was an isolated one.

But my issue wasn't corrosion - it was cracking as mentioned in the thread - so FWIW.

I'm running an OEM boiled and rodded radiator in my 87 since 2016 so I'm good for now.

 

[Catsailr27]

I've heard stories in 2021 that say my case was an isolated one.

But my issue wasn't corrosion - it was cracking as mentioned in the thread - so FWIW.

I'm running an OEM boiled and rodded radiator in my 87 since 2016 so I'm good for now.

If the mounting method differs from the Elise maybe that is the issue? Mine was switched out 10 years ago to aluminum no issues since. Also Elise owners just use the recommended fluid or it's updated version.

Was it same manufacturer with both leaking radiators?

 

[sleekgt]

If the mounting method differs from the Elise maybe that is the issue? Mine was switched out 10 years ago to aluminum no issues since. Also Elise owners just use the recommended fluid or it's updated version.

Was it same manufacturer with both leaking radiators?

Yes - the manufacturer replaced the original leaking one. But in the thread, it too leaked after 7 months.

My theory is the mounting method (aluminum tabs/bung) on side tanks are hard-mounted in fiberglass tray. I think the flexing of the tanks is cracking.
The OEM brass radiator has a frame around the tanks/tubes - my take is that is much more resilient.

 

[Catsailr27]

The Elise radiator is hard mounted as well and one video pointed out the mount was flexable not sure mine was done before buying car. There are a number of quality radiator makers but I have read about some who did have issues. Here's how it's mounted with the Elise.