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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have experience with removing their Elise or Exige AC system? Planning on tackling this in the near future- figured that I would see if anyone had hints before I embarked. Didn't see any threads other than future owners deciding to order the option or not, impacts on resale value... etc

If it turns out that no one has any hints, I'll put together a procedure from my experience...:shrug:
 

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Rerouting the serpentine belt system seems like the biggest challenge. The other stuff is just time consuming labor.Obviously removing the front clam to remove the Evap and condenser.
 

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LPL removed mine.
I seem to recall having to buy a different serpentine belt.
Was trying to get the eng temp down with the ProAlloy water to air intercooler
(went from 3 stacked radiators to 2) but didn't seem to help much.
Further tricks have helped eng temps more than a/c delete.
Of course the weight reduction is a plus for a track car and mine is still heavier than most others I compete against in LCS.
 

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Mine has both AC and heat removed. Where are you located?
 

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Mine has both AC and heat removed. Where are you located?
Why delete heater? For weight savings? I removed ducting on mine and run the heater on track for additional engine cooling. No heating to cabin or anywhere that matters, but does drop engine temps a few degrees.

Also living at the beach in SoCal, I do need heat, but rarely A/C.
However, car hasn't been on the street yet this year (other than testing around the shop) and around 20 days on tracks ... but not yet admitting it is a track only car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks all.

Front components are actually already out - so you guys hit it right on the head, I am mostly interested in the new belt setup. Wondering if there is any need for an additional idler - or just a new belt. Does anyone have or can you check the belt PN that you are running on an AC delete setup?

I'm located in Indy right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
PN from LotusGarage for non-AC accesory belt: A120E6418S
PN for accessory belt w/ AC: A120E6416S

I'm confident that Lotus isn't in the business of making their own or custom serpentine belts, so the actual part must have some existing Gates or Goodyear or Continental part number printed on the back.

Is anyone that runs AC delete willing to check this out? edit: I should mention that a different belt will be used between supercharged and non-supercharged cars...

Also, this looks to be how the belt is wrapped in the non-A/C version:

 

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You might want to check with your local auto parts store to see about getting a belt for a Celica without A/C. Also, you could check with Toyota if a different tensioner is needed, but I have a feeling once the A/C compressor is removed it is just a matter of obtaining the different length belt and getting the correct routing for it. At lest it should be easy to remove all the A/C components seeing as your car is already apart.
 

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You need to know the number of ribs and the length of the belt. Armed with that, any parts store will hand you a belt. To get the number of ribs, count them on your existing belt. To get the length, run a piece of string around the accessories (minus the A/C) tightly and measure it. You need to take into account the tensioner.

Skip
 

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Why delete heater? For weight savings? I removed ducting on mine and run the heater on track for additional engine cooling. No heating to cabin or anywhere that matters, but does drop engine temps a few degrees.

Also living at the beach in SoCal, I do need heat, but rarely A/C.
However, car hasn't been on the street yet this year (other than testing around the shop) and around 20 days on tracks ... but not yet admitting it is a track only car.
First for the weight is 1619# I don't think there are any out there lighter than mine.

I wear a driving suit which provides plenty of thermal protection in the Fall.
No need for a heater. I'm using the air duct ports for gauge placement instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Dan - There don't seem to be multiple tensioner part numbers for the 2ZZ, so I believe you are right in that all I need is a shorter belt.

I am going to go out on a limb and say that Toyota never offered an AC-less Celica with a 2ZZ engine (at least in the states), and given that - the local parts store won't be of any use without a little more effort.

Skip - I can do the measurement, no problem. I've done this before with a few non-factory belt routings. However accounting for the tensioner is a bit of a question, and I would rather not be off by a few mm's when I would hope someone could check in the engine bay and read off the part number!

DPM... 1600lb is great for an S2! Street legal in Illinois? I don't miss the emissions testing, personally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Bender- perfect.

For everyone's reference (also in case the pic goes away some day)

Goodyear Gatorback
PART NUMBER - METRIC PART NO. - NO RIBS - EFFECTIVE LENGTH - OUTSIDE LENGTH
----4060560 -------6PK1420 ---------6--------------56------------------56.75----

price~$20
 

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Thanks Bender- perfect.

For everyone's reference (also in case the pic goes away some day)

Goodyear Gatorback
PART NUMBER - METRIC PART NO. - NO RIBS - EFFECTIVE LENGTH - OUTSIDE LENGTH
----4060560 -------6PK1420 ---------6--------------56------------------56.75----

price~$20
Yea no problem at all, If you want to take the condenser out you will have fab up a small bracket to make up the height difference. I just left everything forward of these connections in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
For the compressor removal, nothing needs to be done other than the belt - you're right.

For the condenser (under the rad) you need to get the radiator and fans back in the right place. Sounds like Bender made new brackets, while I modified what I had.

I too left the lines that run through the sill in. I don't see any practical way to remove without removing the sill or cutting the ends off the tubing.

I like that battery location, Bender. Any heat issues there, though?
 

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Agree, was referring to the picture Bender posted, looks like he circled the bracket securing the AC hoses coming from the compressor to the condenser. Ah, never mind, he was referring to the parts he left in the car.

BTW, the hoses come out fairly easy, particularly if the dash is disassembled and sills removed on the passenger side. They are lightweight, not much to worry about.
 

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bender....is that belt size for AC delete with stock blower pulley or smaller?
The belt size I posted is w/o a blower. My car is turbocharged, I should have mentioned that


For the compressor removal, nothing needs to be done other than the belt - you're right.

For the condenser (under the rad) you need to get the radiator and fans back in the right place. Sounds like Bender made new brackets, while I modified what I had.

I too left the lines that run through the sill in. I don't see any practical way to remove without removing the sill or cutting the ends off the tubing.

I like that battery location, Bender. Any heat issues there, though?
The pic I posted I stole from Phil (I think it's his car), I did do a similar mod putting the battery on the left and my oil cooler on the right. Here are a couple pics

Vehicle Car Auto part Technology Electrical wiring
Motor vehicle Auto part Yellow Vehicle Automotive design

As far as heat goes you've at least got fresh air coming in so I think it will be good, but since the mod I've only got like 100 miles so I don't really know how it is long term, but you do get to cut out a good amount of wire
Wire Auto part Fuel line
 

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Do you have the Fan Control Module (SKU: B117M0038F or equivalent) and the receiver dryer (SKU: A117P0060F or equivalent) from your A/C delete? I'm interested in those parts. Please send PM.
 
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