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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Got a beep today when I locked the car. Both doors, trunklid are secured and light is in down position. Front access panels seem to be on firmly. Is there a wire or sensor inside the doors/access panels that needs to be re-connected? What else should I check next?

I don't seem to be getting a fault code. I can lock/unlock and un-immobilize and drive the car just fine, not sure what's going on. When I lock the car the immobilizer blinks, then when the long beep goes off the light goes solid red. When I unlock the car it goes out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Was just playing with it some more, if I just let it do it's continous beep once the car is locked it will go off in about 30 seconds and then all seems fine. I didn't let it stay locked long enough to see if the alarm will randomly go off. The interior light turns on when I open either door.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It was already to the downward position.

On a side-note I have a LED bulb in the center light, it's been there over a year and I haven't had this problem before but I read in this thread that someone else had a LED which was working fine then when they replaced it, fixed the same problem.

Anyone know what type of bulb it is, I'm not sure if I kept the OEM one.

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f129/alarm-help-needed-65296/
 

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How many seconds between you switching off the engine and activating on the key fob?

On my 2006 Elise, I have similar symptoms if I activate the alarm within a few secs(~5-8 secs). When I wait longer, it's fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How many seconds between you switching off the engine and activating on the key fob?

On my 2006 Elise, I have similar symptoms if I activate the alarm within a few secs(~5-8 secs). When I wait longer, it's fine.
Do you mean how many seconds do I wait to arm/lock the car once I shut off the engine? I never really counted, usually I just lock it immediately after getting out. I'm guessing there's a loose wire/connector somewhere or the LED in my interior light is causing the issue. It lights up fine but it may be the wrong voltage, not sure why it would act up all of a sudden it's been in there a long time.
 

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The beeping should actually be a certain number of beeps and/or flashes of the dash light indicating the error that is being detected by the alarm. There are several threads on LT that describe the codes. If I had time, I'd search for a couple of them...
 

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Do you mean how many seconds do I wait to arm/lock the car once I shut off the engine? I never really counted, usually I just lock it immediately after getting out. I'm guessing there's a loose wire/connector somewhere or the LED in my interior light is causing the issue. It lights up fine but it may be the wrong voltage, not sure why it would act up all of a sudden it's been in there a long time.
Yes, # of secs you waited to arm once you shut off the engine.

When you get a chance, try the shut-off/arm procedure with varying wait times. In my case, I can always repeat the continuous beeps (long followed by short beeps, about 5 cycles IIRC) if the wait time is a few secs, the beeping goes away like yours did and the light flashes in a sequence pattern - can't remember the exact sequence now but the manual do describe the pattern as an error/intrusion. If I wait a bit longer, no beeps and light flashes in its normal mode.

I learned to not arm the car too soon TADTS
 

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If you are saying you have an LED in the interior light, that is the probably the problem, the system needs to see at least 28 ohms. I understand you have had it installed for a while but, who knows :shrug:.
Cheers,
Michael
 

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Weak battery I believe, try it with your car jumped to a running car
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If you are saying you have an LED in the interior light that is the problem, the system needs to see at least 28 ohms.
Cheers,
Michael
Don't have a voltmeter handy but the LED has been there over a year without issue. All of a sudden started acting up. I will try a 168 OEM style non LED bulb and see if that fixes it.

The thing that worries me is that when the thing buzzes and goes off I'm not getting any sort of fault code series of blinks that tells me what's wrong. When the buzzing is happening the red LED in the cluster is solid red. I may try and take a video of the whole process and post it up.
 

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There is only a flashing security light fault indication after an alarm, not before, try the incandescent bulb.
Michael
Don't have a voltmeter handy but the LED has been there over a year without issue. All of a sudden started acting up. I will try a 168 OEM style non LED bulb and see if that fixes it.

The thing that worries me is that when the thing buzzes and goes off I'm not getting any sort of fault code series of blinks that tells me what's wrong. When the buzzing is happening the red LED in the cluster is solid red. I may try and take a video of the whole process and post it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Weak battery I believe, try it with your car jumped to a running car
Hrmm, let me plug it into my battery tender all night and see if it does it with a charged battery plus a non LED interior bulb. I'll report back, thanks guys.
 

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Do one thing at a time so that you can determine the outcome. If the car starts OK, then there is sufficient voltage for the alarm.
Michael
Hrmm, let me plug it into my battery tender all night and see if it does it with a charged battery plus a non LED interior bulb. I'll report back, thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Changed back to stock bulb no dice. Checked under front access panel found pressure sensor not put in place by shop that did my brake fluid
 
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