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Tyger said:
OK boys, instead of just pointing everyone to the old thread, here's a reprint of what I wrote last spring:

If you want to do it, the best thing is to download the Cobra Bridge installation manual which is in a sticky thread at the top of the Electrical forum, but here's the basic method.
1 Go through the "emergency" procedure to disarm/mobilise mentioned on page 33 of your Elise owner's manual, but detailed on page 36 (not p. 18, as mine says). Begin with step 3 (do not do steps 1 & 2 on pg. 36). When this is done successfully the alarm system lamp will come on and stay lit.
2 Press the "A" (large) button on the fob for 5 seconds; the lamp will blink ONE long flash (putting you in the Mode Table). But keep going.
3 Turn the key to Off, and then immediately back to On. The lamp will make TWO long blinks, indicating you are now in the Functions Table.
4 The lamp will then quickly begin to flash one flash at a time. Press the A button. It will flash quickly twice at a time. Keep pressing the A button till the lamp blinks seven quick flashes at a time. This is the function you want to choose.
5 Press the "B" (small) button to store this function.
6 Turn the key to Off. Wait at least ten seconds.
7 Your immobiliser will now only come on in conjunction with the active alarm and door locking.

For the benefit of those who are trying to disable the immobiliser. If I skip steps 1 & 2 the tell tale doesn't stay on at the end of entering the alarm code. If I include steps 1 & 2 the tell tale does stay on.

Try the above procedure a few times first to ensure that you're doing it correctly. If it still doesn't work, try skipping steps 1 & 2 to see if that helps. Let me know if you learn anything new, so I can include it in this post for others to use.
 

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I got this problem today. My FOB refused to unlock the car and had my top on. Eventually I hit the small FOB button not really knowing what to do, and it set off the alarm. It couldn't have been the FOB battery because I had swapped to my #2 FOB last month. The only thing I remember doing today was playing with the FOB buttons while the keys were in my pocket. Thinking like an enginner, I figured that perhaps I had somehow messed up the FOB's state . So, I removed the battery, put it back in, hit the large button and voila! Door unlocked, everything's back to normal. In a previous message on this thread, Dave had the same problem and solution. So, if this happens to you, try this first.
 

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Tyger said:
Make sure after you finish entering the code that you end up in the ON position.
I did. Repeatedly. I then repeated the entire procedure without skipping steps 1 and 2 and it worked the first time using the identical procedure.
 

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I replaced my fob battery with a new duracell CR2032. Didn't work. No red light, no response. Tried another new duracell. Still no response. Put the old panasonic back in, works fine. The new duracells test just over 3 volts, while the old panasonic is under. Repeated several times, same results.

Any ideas?
 

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Having read umpteen threads on the fob issues, someone should post and answer to this question:

"How do you disconnect the whole mess?"

Sat in my car for an hour yesterday with a brand new fob and still couldn't get it programmed.

Does anyone know how this thing actually works? I'm theorizing that the training sequence causes the alarm to memorize whatever code has been factory set in the alarm fob(?), not vice versa (it's difficult to think that the fob actually has a receiver, but is a transmitter only). So, after you enter the training mode, pressing the larger button simply generates the fobs code so the alarm circuit can read it.

We watched yesterday as the alarm repeatedly failed to recognize the new fob, but continued to work with the old fob (which was supposed to be erased from memory once into the training mode).

A better question might be: Where's the software engineer that wrote the code for this blasted thing so we can all gang up on him?
 
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