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Like most cars, the resistor pack failed on my 2005 elise. I did a lot of reading on how to take the front end apart and replace the pack. Aside from the huge amount of time I really did not want to take it apart because once you open the ac system you may have trouble getting it back together leak free and no matter how good you are, anything that is taken apart and put back together is not as good as it was before. Another concern was if I had a leak or another failure I would be right back in it again.
I decided to take the direct approach, I cut a hole in the pan to access the resistor pack, removed the old one and made a small aluminum plate to fill the hole in the blower. Since I was going non-stock anyway I purchased and blower resistor at AutoZone, Part RU1076. Cost $19.99. Once installed I fabricated small plate and attached it to cover the access hole. I’m not saying this is the “right” way to fix it but it’s the only way I could figure out to do it in 2.5 hours for 20 bucks.
I’m posting pictures because the hardest part of this job was figuring out exactly where to make the hole. If anyone needs more info I’m happy to provide it. [email protected]
 

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Is this part of the Aluminum frame? Or is this a removable underbody panel? Im guessing part of the frame due to having to cut it and just not remove it.
 

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It is not a removable part.
It is part of the chassis that is in between the front suspension, a bad place to cut pieces out
 

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Guys that part of the chassis LOOKS super structural, but it is NOT. It's hollow very thin aluminum and removing a small part like this does nothing to the overall structure of the car.
 

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The part you circled is the front suspension mounting area. arguably the most structurally loaded area.

And with all due respect Kevin, the entire chassis is maybe .06 wall thickness, there is little that is actually not 'thin'

The area the heater sits in is defined by horizontal boxes which take the suspension loads. Those boxes are held in place in part by the sheet metal areas between them

Early on people cut out the area with the recirc vents, which is also hackery, but it is already perforated, so I think not structural in that area.

If you cannot find a reason to pull the clam, like replacing the stock radiator or fixing the AC, this is the way to go:

Again, do not cut unnecessary holes in the car.
 

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I'm with Exigeus on this one. Note the section that was cut is twin skin. This sheet connects the boxed in areas of the suspension and adds stiffness. If I saw a car with this mod, I would classify it as a salvage car as it is a piece that can never be returned to stock.
 

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I would never ever cut that part of the car...when I replaced that resistor it in my Elise, took the entire front off and relocated the resistor next to the fuse box.
 

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I just replaced my resistor pack and took the front clam off to do it. While I was at it I replaced the oem radiator, AC condenser (rock hit it and had a small leak) the evaporator/dryer and replaced the brake lines with SS.

Main point, I would never have cut the metal pan under the car. The engineered chassis takes into consideration all the metal pan pieces for load and stiffness calculations.

Additionally, you put the resistor pack back in the same place that is known to be exposed to moisture and fail. Not sure that was a good solution.

You would have been better off taking your time to remove the front clam (not hard) and replacing the resistor pack according to manufacturer directions. All that is required to reconnect the AC lines are new green AC o-rings which are readily available at any automotive store.
 

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The part you circled is the front suspension mounting area. arguably the most structurally loaded area.

And with all due respect Kevin, the entire chassis is maybe .06 wall thickness, there is little that is actually not 'thin'

The area the heater sits in is defined by horizontal boxes which take the suspension loads. Those boxes are held in place in part by the sheet metal areas between them

Early on people cut out the area with the recirc vents, which is also hackery, but it is already perforated, so I think not structural in that area.

If you cannot find a reason to pull the clam, like replacing the stock radiator or fixing the AC, this is the way to go:

Again, do not cut unnecessary holes in the car.
That's a great method and a wonderful tutorial. If the resistor pack on my Elise ever goes, I'm definitely going that route.

Thanks for posting it.
 

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I actually
That's a great method and a wonderful tutorial. If the resistor pack on my Elise ever goes, I'm definitely going that route.

Thanks for posting it.
I actually advise to do more significant work while you are in there but if you are short on time.....

 
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