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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have an 06 Elise with DLR. Do you think I could drive on just the battery?
Alternator is not working. Not sure it it is alternator or wiring. Has a relocated alternator for aftermarket supercharger.
Car is about an hour away for home.
Could have it towed or could stick a fully charged battery in it and try to drive it home.

Getting it towed is a pain due to the lack of good placed to tie it down to the average tow truck.

How far do you think i could drive on the battery?

Thanks
Joe
 

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Not an hour, but maybe if you disconnected DRLs. If your alternator went south, your battery may be weak.


Why do you think the alternator isn't working? Did you test anything w/a multimeter?

Could be bad connection at terminal, or secondary connection not far from there (on some cars).

I can tell you how to check or search for SirLotus posts about this.
 

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i get about 70 mins max out of my total loss system. but... i also have nothing electronic, other than the 'points' a coil, tach, and... thats it! id think in a production car you'd get about 45 min max if your careful with anything electric. fyi - thats with an oddest 680. if you have a regular battery you'd get much more, and you could get a quick jump pack to carry too.... or just another batter fully charged and swap it along the way... its nothing high tech there.
 

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German Reimport
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Is the belt still on? Otherwise I would assume it's only going to be a few minutes before thermal engine death. But the battery will probably last to that point.
 

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I have been in that situation... Mine is also an "06 Elise with relocated alternator for the SC. You don't go far. Once it went completely out, I went about 15 more miles. After that, a 15 minute charge off a tow truck on my Optima red-top got me about 10 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Went and got the car on Friday. Started the car, put a volt meter on the battery, and it was not being charged. Drove for about 25 minutes before the battery completely went dead. (It was daytime and the only electrical draw aside from the engine was the daylight running lights.) I had taken a battery out of a VW Touareg (large battery) (pain to get to, under the driver’s seat) so I would have a spare if the one in the lotus went dead. So I put the Touareg battery in and drove the rest of the way home, which was another 30 minutes.

Turns out it was broken wires on the alternator connector. Two of the 3 wires were broken off; maybe due to heat or being stretched. Car has BWR SC with the alternator relocated to the right rear of the engine down by the exhaust. Tried to buy the plug at Toyota; but they didn't have it. Took the connector apart and soldered the wires into the pins and put the connector back together. Put the wires and the alternator connector in DEI Fire Sleeve. Started the car up and the alternator is now charging the battery fine.

Couple if side items:
BWR SC Kit - I purchased the car with the BWR SC already installed so didn't know anything about the modifications done with the install. BWR was very helpful and emailed me their install directions, the same day I asked for them. The kit calls for extending the alternator wires by splicing in some wire provided with the kit. Would have been better if the kit came with the extra wire with male and female alternator plugs on the wire so you could just unplug the alternator and plug in the extension wire, without making all the crimps and heat shrinking the wire etc. Same thing for extending the injector wires…….having extension wires with plugs on it would go a long way. My car has version one of the kit. I believe Version 2 may not relocate the alternator to the exhaust header area.

Toyota – Going to a dealership today and there systems are designed to look up everything by VIN number. When you go to the Toyota dealer and say you are looking for a part for your Lotus…..you better have the Toyota part number!

CEL– As the battery was starting to get completely drained, the ECU starting shutting systems down. Radio went off, ABS light came on, Airbag light came on, engine finally started sputtering and CEL came on. Then Engine finally turned off when the battery was completely drained. Once I finished fixing the alternator connector and got the car running again the CEL stayed on for about an hour. I noticed that while the CEL on the ECU dumbs down the tune a bit. The car was not quite as fast and as snappy as normal. After the CEL went off the ECU tune was back to normal.

Battery light on – When I purchased the car, a month ago, the battery light was on. Previous owner said it has been like that for a while and that it had no impact on the running of the car. A few days before the alternator problem the battery light went out. Since I repaired the alternator plug wires the battery light has come back on. Anyone got any ideas why it would be on?
 

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Good job finding the problem.
 

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Wow, what a stressful ride that must have been with the battery getting lower and things shutting down. Kudos to you that you survived it all.
 

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I know EXACTLY what you are talking about because I also have the BWR kit with the alternator on the exhaust side. When I was under the car, I noticed that my wires are stretched a bit in order to get them to plug in. I'm going to redo them when I get a chance.
 

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You are luck to have made the journey. Years ago my old triumphs generator bit the dust. My battery lasted me about 15-20 minutes, not enough to get to the house.
 
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