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Your are in uncharted water fixing the frame. I have a track car that we bonded a steel cage to and it had minor frame dmage that did not involve suspension pickup points and, given the added strenght of the 8-point cage, I made the decision that I'd simply re-bond the suspect area and call it good. I'd never fix a road car this way and you are nutty to take any chances fixing a suspension pickup point on a road car. Save the money you would have spent fixing the car and buy a solid, unwrecked, car.


I understand this response, the car is being sold with a new chassis. I'm questioning this because it would be silly to start to tear apart a car before trying to fix the old chassis. I've read the 'Kiss off the K wall at Laguna' thread (along with some others on LT) and it looks like my situation. From what I gather there, it is possible to purchase chassis members without buying the tub. It might even be possible to buy stock 6063 and design the part myself (I have software through work).

I am also looking into structural aluminum adhesives. My brother in law is an airline pilot and knows a few mechanics that repair aluminum members on aircraft. They seem to think this should not be a problem. 3M makes some decent products and Partite (sp?) also does some good things with aluminum bonding. The only difference from factory is cure time (no oven use for home purchased adhesives).

About the pickup point, I really don't think it is deal off. I've worked as a design engineer for formula cars, we've done a lot worse than rebuild an upper a arm mount - hell, we've rebuilt whole a-arms bent from wall loving. The majority of the load is taken by the suspension 'tower'. I can't imagine fixing a pivot point to be a serious issue. Cornering loads would be my biggest concern. However, the extrusion on there now is no bigger than 1/4" thick. If it can be replaced and secured, I have no worries with it. Although, please, please correct me if you believe otherwise. I'm not one to say I know best, I'm just trying to collect some information here.


Thanks for the info guys:UK:
 

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How are you folks just "replacing" the chassis? The only way I know is with a donor car that has been checked on a Lotus chassis rig (of which none exists except in two locations in the UK).

Lotus will not sell chassis only replacement ... has this changed? This IS the reason I've changed my mind about doing full contact racing series (read World Challenge series) -- getting replacements chassis requires buying a new Elise complete or a used one that has no chassis damage.

Before I go race my Lotus I had planned to do a full 3D measurement so I have correct reference points to which I can compare over time.

Also wondering if it's cheaper to build alternative replacements to improve front an rear geometry that is NOT bonded -- for race applications only.

Of course the best solution is getting Lotus to SELL CHASSIS ONLY! If someone lurking from Lotus (or indirect lurking of a lurker) could post why the Chassis Only isn't available for sale, that would be most appreciated.

Rob.

Lotus Garage - Chassis, Subframe

Pretty pricy. My understanding is you have to destroy the broken chassis by cutting a hole (or the like) in it. I think the VIN also needs to be switched over.
 

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lotus issues the replacement chassis, on a per vin basis. the vin is transfered to the replacement chassis and the old chassis is destroyed.

i talked to Lotus about all this in regards to building up a fed vin'd car.

so in other words - you don't just go out and "buy" a replacement chassis - each replacement chassis is specific to a VIN.
you certainly don't buy another car to harvest its chassis (although you could, but then you would be on that cars vin)

...at least all of that is what i was told by Lotus.
 

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Oh, thanks for that link ... $7570.69 ? I wish it provided more details on exactly what that includes. Don't care about the VIN for race duty. Actually, price isn't that bad ... assuming it's available.

So in order to buy one I have to prove I have a damaged one? Only issue I have with that is delivery times ... I'd like to have the chassis already here so if I damage current race car I don't have to wait for long long long delays in getting a new chassis.

Rob
 

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lotus issues the replacement chassis, on a per vin basis. the vin is transfered to the replacement chassis and the old chassis is destroyed.

i talked to Lotus about all this in regards to building up a fed vin'd car.

so in other words - you don't just go out and "buy" a replacement chassis - each replacement chassis is specific to a VIN.
you certainly don't buy another car to harvest its chassis (although you could, but then you would be on that cars vin)

...at least all of that is what i was told by Lotus.
I haven't read much on chassis replacement. Is the VIN etched in aluminum when ordered? I guess this makes it impossible to re-sell a chassis that is not needed. ie, if one is purchased with the intent of replacement but not used.
 

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Oh, thanks for that link ... $7570.69 ? I wish it provided more details on exactly what that includes. Don't care about the VIN for race duty. Actually, price isn't that bad ... assuming it's available.

So in order to buy one I have to prove I have a damaged one? Only issue I have with that is delivery times ... I'd like to have the chassis already here so if I damage current race car I don't have to wait for long long long delays in getting a new chassis.

Rob
Not sure about lead times, I can't imagine a chassis would ship quickly though. You raise some good questions about replacement chassis. I'll try to post information if I come across it.
 

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Spumoni1984,
In regards to the type of aluminum that is used, I had a metallurgists do a test and report of my damaged floor pan. I will post the exact results when I can find them. Basically the sheet material used is 5052 non-heat treated. The extrusions I did not have tested so that is unknown to me. Hope this helps with your decision about repair or replace.
 

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here is a reference for Aluminum -- formable, weldable, corrosion, strenght, etc.

As for the 5052, will need to know more about temper designation.
 

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If my memory is correct the designation I remember reading from his report was 5052-H32, which is the example given above. Now if I can just remember where I put it???
 

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Spumoni1984,
In regards to the type of aluminum that is used, I had a metallurgists do a test and report of my damaged floor pan. I will post the exact results when I can find them. Basically the sheet material used is 5052 non-heat treated. The extrusions I did not have tested so that is unknown to me. Hope this helps with your decision about repair or replace.
Thanks:clap:, I read somewhere that the extrusions were 6063, but I can't remember where I read that or the validity of the statement.
 

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Just to let all future readers of this thread know, I didn't get the car. Still looking for a Lotus, but not sure if I'll buy 'gently' used. I do believe it is possible to perform a repair like this, but I would only attempt it on a car I own. Too much can go wrong with a used/wrecked car. That's just my opinion though.
 
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