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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
shay2nak said:
If it takes one wire for each bulb (2 wires, one for each half circle), why use both wires for the one bulb? Just put some heat shrink or E-tape on the other.

huh? you need the second wire for your brake lights. You also have to do other things like switch both 1156 bulbs to one light, and both 1157 bulbs to the other light. You have to trim off the tabs that make the bulbs socket-specific. You need to make or buy a connector for the amber blinker bulb, and do a few other things. I will make a whole writeup when i know what colors the wires are.
 

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shay2nak
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newman said:
huh? you need the second wire for your brake lights. You also have to do other things like switch both 1156 bulbs to one light, and both 1157 bulbs to the other light. You have to trim off the tabs that make the bulbs socket-specific. You need to make or buy a connector for the amber blinker bulb, and do a few other things. I will make a whole writeup when i know what colors the wires are.
My bad...I thought I had read earlier that there were 2 wires you had to twist into one, and that the current was too high for the bulb. It would be easier to see if I actually had the car. :rolleyes:
 

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.........-poke-
 

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shay2nak
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newman said:
it's in the works. should be done in a day or two. my technical writing skills seem to have diminished slightly since college.
i know what you mean, I think I've become dyslexic since graduating. :D
And i think I'm developing ADD. :wallbang: :D
 

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It takes at least ten years for college to wear off. Until it does, when someone says "Write about such and such...", you cringe.

I say we should let newman off the hook for this one. Otherwise, he'll be doing all kinds of cool mods and never post anything for fear of being asked to write about it.
 

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But we're so neeeeeedy!!!:shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter #50
1) Open the rear access panel and look inside at the taillights. Each taillight has a sub-harness connected to main body harness. The sub-harnesses differ between the inside and the outside taillight, let us differentiate them by referring to them as the inner and outer subharnesses.

The inner harness: This harness has 4 connectors on it.

1) Main connector (MI) – this connector joins the sub-harness to the main harness.
2) Grey bulb socket (GI)
3) Black bulb socket (BI)
4) Center Bulb Plug (CI) – This plug connects to the reverse light bulb socket. It is the only bulb socket that is removable from the sub-harness

The outer harness: This sub-harness has 3 connectors on it.

1) Main connector (MO)
2) Grey bulb socket (GO)
3) Black bulb socket (BO)

Disconnect each sub harness and remove from the car. MI and MO remove like a standard automotive plug. GI, GO, BI & BO remove from the taillight assembly by twisting them, then pulling. Remove CI and the center bulb socket together by twisting and pulling in the same manner. Also, from the outer taillight remove the center bulb socket (not connected to the outer harness) by twisting and pulling.


2) Both harnesses, with bulbs installed, should now be free from the car, along with the center bulb socket from the outer tail assembly. Remove the bulbs from all the sockets to avoid breaking them. Plus, the only incandescent bulb you will use is the reverse bulb. Place the harnesses on a well lit workbench, allowing easy examination of the wires.


3) Setting the harnesses aside, the first thing we will do is make a connector for the outer center bulb socket that was removed. Ideally, you would purchase a new harness from lotus, allowing you to merely cut off the center plug. However, since that is the only part you need from it, I recommend simply making a connection without it. Since the bulb socket can be removed from the taillight simply by twisting and pulling, there is no real need for the bulb socket itself to unplug from the sub harness. That being the case, it can be permanently attached.

After some searching, I found that with some slight modification, a computer hard drive power plug could be used to do just this. I cut the hard drive power connector out of the computer leaving approximately 2” of lead on it. Using a pick, carefully removed the female pins from the plastic plug. What you are left with is a bare metal receptacle on the end of a 2” wire. You need two of these for each bulb socket. I crushed the receptacle slightly with pliers, such that it fit snugly over the male pins in the back of the center bulb socket. Cover all of the exposed metal on the female receptacle with heat shrink tubing. Slide the wires over the male pins in the center bulb socket and secure the wires with tape. When you are done with this step, you should have two outer bulb sockets, each with a pair of two inch leads protruding from it. The colors of the wires are not important, because either wire can be hot of ground, but for ease of description, I will assume that you have used red and black.


4) Now that your center bulb sockets have been modified, it is time to splice wires. I always use heat shrink and solder, I suggest using nothing else. Cut the grey bulb socket off the inner harness, leaving 3 inches of lead. Cut the Black bulb socket off of the outer harness, again leaving 3 inches of wire.

Inner harness: The black bulb socket that you cut off has the following colors: black, green/black, green. Connect these wires to the inner harness as follows:

(Black socket – Inner harness)
Green/black – green/yellow
black – black
Green – yellow

Outer Harness: The grey bulb socket that you cut off has the following colors: black, yellow. Connect these wires to the outer harness as follows:

(Grey socket – outer harness)
Yellow – Green
Black – Black

The center bulb that you added the leads to in step 3 need to be attached as follows:

(Center bulb plug – outer harness)
Red – green/black
Black – Black




5) Now that all the wiring is done, only one step remains. The taillight housing is keyed, such that the correct bulb socket will fit in the correct portion of the taillight. In order to defeat this, we need to slightly modify the bulb sockets we spliced on. Obviously, the ones that we didn’t change can remain unmodified. The wires are directed out the side of the bulb socket. Orient the bulb socket such that the wires are coming out of the socket towards you. Directly above the leftmost wire, a square-ish tab will be protruding towards you. This is what needs to be removed. It is circled in red in the following picture:

Using a razor blade, cut the tab flush with the body of the bulb socket.



6) You are now ready to reinstall into your car. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU USE LED BULBS IN YOUR TAILLIGHTS AFTER PERFORMING THIS MOD. THEY CAN BE PURCHASED FROM SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM OR RAGNORAK RACING. USING INCANDESCENT BULBS WILL DOUBLE THE CURRENT DRAW ON THE WIRES, AND COULD START A FIRE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU BURN YOUR CAR DOWN OR IN ANY OTHER WAY DAMAGE ANYTHING. The bulbs in the center bulb sockets may still be incandescent.
 

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newman said:
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU USE LED BULBS IN YOUR TAILLIGHTS AFTER PERFORMING THIS MOD. THEY CAN BE PURCHASED FROM SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM OR RAGNORAK RACING. USING INCANDESCENT BULBS WILL DOUBLE THE CURRENT DRAW ON THE WIRES, AND COULD START A FIRE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU BURN YOUR CAR DOWN OR IN ANY OTHER WAY DAMAGE ANYTHING. The bulbs in the center bulb sockets may still be incandescent.
No need.

The European S2 Elise rear light setup was originally designed to light up as follows (excuse the bad ASCII art for the rear):

- Completely lit up rings for the normal rear lights (5W and 5W/20W bulbs)

(o)(o) L O T U S (o)(o)

- 1/2 of the outer light unit rings for the brake light using high power section of dual filament (5W/20W) bulbs

(o o L O T U S o o)

- 1/2 of the inner light unit rings for the rear foglight using high power section of dual filament (5W/20W) bulbs

o o) L O T U S (o o

With the inner units center used for reverse light and the outer units center used as amber indicator (amber filter inside housing, so bulb just regular clear one)

Power drain and heat buildup should be fine if you use this setup.

Bye, Arno.
 

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newman said:
I am not comfortable with doubling the stock wiring amp load. If anyone else wants to, that is their prerogative.
But the point being made is that the wiring is already sized to handle the loads - it's the same wiring as used in the Euro spec car, just different sockets to provide a different light pattern.

newman said:
some slight modification, a computer hard drive power plug could be used to do just this. I cut the hard drive power connector out of the computer leaving approximately 2” of lead on it.
Instead of hacking up the computer harness and needing to splice wires together, you could go to Radio Shack and purchase these connectors - they are only a buck or two, and include the plug (or socket) and the appropriate pins to be crimped onto your wires and inserted into the plug. Might save some cutting and splicing and potential future failure points...
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
TimMullen said:
But the point being made is that the wiring is already sized to handle the loads - it's the same wiring as used in the Euro spec car, just different sockets to provide a different light pattern.

Instead of hacking up the computer harness and needing to splice wires together, you could go to Radio Shack and purchase these connectors - they are only a buck or two, and include the plug (or socket) and the appropriate pins to be crimped onto your wires and inserted into the plug. Might save some cutting and splicing and potential future failure points...
A: There is no way that 18 Gauge wire is going to handle 8X20 watts. That's 14 amps draw. 18 GA is rated to something like 15 amps. too close for comfort for me. Secondly, if you want to run incandescent bulbs, feel free, it isn't my car. Thirdly, it is splitting hairs. It's your car.

B: There is almost NO chance that radioshack has the correct plug for the center bulb socket. This is not a standard wire splice plug or anything like that. You may be misunderstanding. It is a molded, two position plug. As mentioned, the RIGHT way to do it is to get the correct plug from lotus. I highly doubt anything from radioshack will be anymore effective or reliable than anything i posted. In the picture below it has the red and black wires going to it:
 

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newman said:
A: There is no way that 18 Gauge wire is going to handle 8X20 watts. That's 14 amps draw. 18 GA is rated to something like 15 amps. too close for comfort for me. Secondly, if you want to run incandescent bulbs, feel free, it isn't my car. Thirdly, it is splitting hairs. It's your car.
8x20 watts is not what it's designed to handle and would be a non-standard setup.

The max the S2 rear lights were originally designed to handle would be:

- 4x 5 watt regular rear light filaments : 20 watt
- 2x 20 watt rear brake light filaments: 40 watt
- 2x 20 watt rear foglight filaments: 40 watt

And additionally:

- 2x 20 watts reverse bulbs
- 2x 20 watts indicator bulbs

So even if you manage to switch everything on in the original S2 design you'd end up with 7x20 watt peak, which is OK for the complete wiring loom to the back.

Where of course the main rear light filaments and the rear foglight setup would be more of a 'constant' use and the rest incidental.

If your non-standard setup runs all rear light bulbs as brake lights as well (giving 8x20 watt) then you do have a problem, but in that case I would also worry about the brake light switch as it's most likely never meant to switch such high currents either...

Bye, Arno.
 
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