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newman said:
B: There is almost NO chance that radioshack has the correct plug for the center bulb socket
Read my comment more carefully. Radio Shack does not carry the light bulb sockets.

You wrote:
I found that with some slight modification, a computer hard drive power plug could be used to do just this. I cut the hard drive power connector out of the computer leaving approximately 2” of lead on it.
Radio Shack does carry the connectors similar to those used in desktop computers to power disk drives, etc. These come with the pins that can be crimped onto your wires and inserted into the plug/socket. I've used them many times for various projects where I needed a keyed power connector...
 

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Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
the only thing you could use would be something like this:



Which radioshack may or may not have. This is essentially what i removed from the computer, but if you bought this from radio shack, you would have to crimp this onto your own wire, which is still another connection to fail, and in this case, it is not connected with a crimping die, like it was at dell, or where ever.

If you are thinking about using something like this:



there is nowhere in this setup where anything of this would be of use. The middle picture occupys more than double the space you have available and would not fit inside the plug body.

EDIT: For clarification i attached a picture. The plug on the left is what we need to duplicate. What we need to mate to is on the right...
 

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newman said:
Which radioshack may or may not have. This is essentially what i removed from the computer, but if you bought this from radio shack, you would have to crimp this onto your own wire, which is still another connection to fail, and in this case, it is not connected with a crimping die, like it was at dell, or where ever.
Radio Shack sells "interlocking connectors" that use round pins - both male and female connectors and male and female pins. They also sell the pin extractor tool for removing and inserting the pins in the connectors, and the crimper for crimping the wires on the pins. A single crimped wire is better than a crimped wire that is soldered a few inches away to splice it to another wire.

Hey, if you like doing it your way, fine. I was just pointing out to someone that may like to do it another way (or doesn't have access to an old computer wiring harness to cut up), that the pins are available...

Edit: Seeing the photo of the pins you are trying to match, I'm not sure these connectors would do it. Those are not exactly like the computer's power connector pins. I'm not sure that these could be "smashed" as you described...

Picture of the pins next to a connector, and another picture of the pins installed in a two pin connector.
 

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So, did anybody happen to find the connector manufacturer or model number for the sockets so I'm not splicing anything? I suppose in the end I really don't care. I do want rear amber turn lights... so I suppose I should just splice that one wire and be done with it (splice the ground too, I guess)...

Edit: does anybody know the wire color for the turn signal wire ? And the ground ? I assume L/R are the same...
 

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It looks like a metripack tower. I'd swear one of my cars has the same connector which might help us identify it. I'll try looking.

Check out this page:

http://www.metripack.com/pages/7/index.htm

And from this page:

http://www.weatherpack.com/pages/900563/index.htm

"If a sealed connector without round terminals is marked "DELPHI" or "P.E.D.," it could be a Metri-Pack, a GT or a Ducon series connector. We stock many different Metri-Pack components. Send us a sample or a picture of what is needed and we can probably identify and supply your requirements."
 

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Turn Signals

Thanks for the writeup, Newman. I don't mind the brake and taillight set up as is, but I would like to make the turn signals use the amber center of the outside lights. Do I need to do this entire mod just to get the amber turnlights, or, is there a way to do only the amber? If so, what steps/portions of the original detailed writeup can be eliminated? Since the ambers are center, I presume incadescents are o.k.? Will these two additional bulbs cause a problem of drawing too much power? Thanks to anyone who's willing to help. Cheers.
 

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8x20 watts is not what it's designed to handle and would be a non-standard setup.

The max the S2 rear lights were originally designed to handle would be:

- 4x 5 watt regular rear light filaments : 20 watt
- 2x 20 watt rear brake light filaments: 40 watt
- 2x 20 watt rear foglight filaments: 40 watt

And additionally:

- 2x 20 watts reverse bulbs
- 2x 20 watts indicator bulbs

So even if you manage to switch everything on in the original S2 design you'd end up with 7x20 watt peak, which is OK for the complete wiring loom to the back.

Where of course the main rear light filaments and the rear foglight setup would be more of a 'constant' use and the rest incidental.

If your non-standard setup runs all rear light bulbs as brake lights as well (giving 8x20 watt) then you do have a problem, but in that case I would also worry about the brake light switch as it's most likely never meant to switch such high currents either...

Bye, Arno.
Sorry to bring back and old thread, but I just rewired mine using an extra harness from a spare set of tailights that had the reverse light wiring. Had to take out and move some of the pins around within the harnesses. Now the ye
llow lights act as turn signals, and all of the lights turn on when I step on the brakes. With just the lights turned on, the taillights are the same as stock. Its only the turrn and brake lights that I changed.

However, when I tested it with the car not running, it all worked ok, except I had to get an adjustable flasher to prevent hyperblinking on the turn signals. It was wierd. If I pressed the hazard button, both orange turn signal lights would flash at normal speed, but when I used the blinker it hyperflashed. The problem that is happening with the car running is that I am blowing a fuse when I step on the brakes and all the taillights go out. I figure I have four 20 watt bulbs and four 5/20 watt bulbs on when the brakes go on, so it should be total of 170 watts and the fuse is 10 amps so it should only be able to handle 120 watts, so I dont know why it only blows with the car running. I am afraid of frying something so I am going to get LED bulbs to cut down on the wattage and see if that solves the problem.



Got LED bulbs and everything seems to be OK and they are a lot brighter. When I step on the brakes all the sections of all of the lights illuminate, so their is twice as much light. Got a good deal on them at pepboys.com at 30% off but you can also get them at AutoZone and Walmart had them, but not in the red color at the local stores. I bought the Pilot 1156 and 1157


http://www.autozone.com/1/products/475397-brake-light-mini-bulb-pilot-il-1156r-15.html
 
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