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Discussion Starter #1
First of all - Merry Christmas.

Just killing time waiting for the kids to fall asleep so I can get my Santa on!

Today was nice - 39 and sunny. Really hasn't snowed here so figured I'd go for a drive. Head over to the place I store my car and the bad news is that the owner of the office park put his big ass F350 with plow and salt spreader in front of my car so I cant get out. Figured I'd start the Elise since I was there.

Wouldn't start. Here's the deal:

- Been sitting for about 3-4 weeks. Started it once (quickly) about 10 days ago.
- Has a Battery Minder on it. Plugged in vial the AC outlet accessory (not directly to the battery). Used it this way all last winter - no issues.
- Imobilizer light didnt' come on, however the dash lights/indicators did come on. I had the heater on last drive, so that did come on.
- Clickity click noise.
- Door lock/unlock and alarm didn't work.

I checked the Battery Minder and green light is on saying it's working and the red light is on say the unit is getting power. Manual says the green light blinks when it's charged and maintaining. Says it can also be solid green if the charge is below 11 volts.

Questions:

- I don't think it matters but should it make a difference if the Battery Minder was plugged via the 12v accessory outlet versus directly to the batter?

- It's very possible that the Battery Minder was jostled loose from the AC outlet (maybe someone bumped it) or maybe the building lost power.

- The Battery Minder is on now has been on for a good 9 hours. I'll try to pop over there tomorrow (its just down the street) tomorrow and see if it charged.

So, sounds like a typical battery drain down.

- Should I see if the Battery Minder brought it back to life or is that not possible?

- Should I charge it? If so, what's the best way? Thinking about buying one of those Stanley portable charger/compressor things and hooking it. Should I do that? If so, directly to the battery or via the battery posts in the left access panel?

- Should I just try to jump it using my other car? With that guy's pickup in there and no way to get ahold of him during the holidays, that won't be easy.

- Is the battery toast? Honestly, not even sure what kind of battery I have.

I'm a 'tard when it comes to this stuff so show your Christmas spirit and help a brotha out. Please don't make me read 95 other threads when my wife is yelling at me!

Merry Christmas!
 

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have you a voltmeter handy?

The battery may (or may not) be fine and if OK then you'd need to check the connections at the battery posts.

1. try to move connectors; they shouldn't budge

2. Put voltmeter on posts directly,

3. then move to cable ends

If voltage is less in #3, connectors are dirty and/or loose.

There is, iirc, a 3rd connector near the cable ends, so ck that too.

I hope it just starts tmw, but the above is so easy to ck.



More avail, but I don't know if you have the digital voltmeter/multimeter...
 

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If the car started 10 days ago, and you've kept it on the Battery Mindr, it really should not have drained in any way.
I would suspect that either power was cut, it was unplugged, or perhaps wasn't plugged properly into the AC outlet. (I've always felt a little uncertain when plugging into my outlet, it's as if it wants to pop out, but I've successfully kept mind on the Mindr for years).

I believe I read (here in the forums) that the Battery Mindr is capable of eventually charging up a battery in a day or two, so it couldn't hurt to see how things turn out tomorrow.
if the car starts, then you'll know the answer.

If not, and the battery is a bit old, a new battery is likely the solution
 

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Ticket Magnet
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Well, to start, take a breath.
O. K.
Now I checked first to see and my 2005 Elise accessory is hot without a key. So reverse-direction charging should work.
The problem is, if you started it and didn't let the alternator recharge it (average about 7 miles of driving) then you did put an additional drain on the battery at that time.
If you are close, I would put a voltmeter on the end of the probe with it plugged in (to the wall socket) to see if it was putting out anything.
I would check:
to see if the probe was all of the way in and making contact with the back contact in the accessory socket;
Aren't these sockets European and larger in diameter than than ours on this side of the pond? Maybe the probe isn't large enough in diameter to make good contact with the side of the socket.
Were both doors shut tight for that 10 days?
Was the accessory light left in the on position?
etc., etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If the car started 10 days ago, and you've kept it on the Battery Mindr, it really should not have drained in any way.
I would suspect that either power was cut, it was unplugged, or perhaps wasn't plugged properly into the AC outlet. (I've always felt a little uncertain when plugging into my outlet, it's as if it wants to pop out, but I've successfully kept mind on the Mindr for years).

I believe I read (here in the forums) that the Battery Mindr is capable of eventually charging up a battery in a day or two, so it couldn't hurt to see how things turn out tomorrow.
if the car starts, then you'll know the answer.

If not, and the battery is a bit old, a new battery is likely the solution
I'm thinking that may be the case. I had the BatteryMinder on my car all of last winter and it sat for at least 2 months at one sit with no issues.

I have the Minder cord going through the drivers window (cracked) and then into the AC outlet. I also have a car cover on the car.

Since I was there 10 days ago, there's not that big F350, a boat and a flatbed trailer in the office park building. Me thinks that the owner guy either hit the Minder/extension cord or perhaps someone peeked under the car cover to see what it was, ultimately jostling it loose.

I didn't check the Minder first before I unplugged it to get into the car to start it. I'm assuming it wasn't on.

I'll check the car tomorrow night or Monday morning.

On the topic - what do you guys think of those portable Jump Stations (Schumacher, Stanley)? A 500 amp one with a compressor is like $60-75. Thinking not a bad thing to have around with the Lotus, the Moke, a boat and of course, our dailies. If I use one, should I connect directly to battery or to the aux posts under the access panel?
 

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Well, to start, take a breath.
O. K.
Now I checked first to see and my 2005 Elise accessory is hot without a key. So reverse-direction charging should work.
The problem is, if you started it and didn't let the alternator recharge it (average about 7 miles of driving) then you did put an additional drain on the battery at that time.
If you are close, I would put a voltmeter on the end of the probe with it plugged in (to the wall socket) to see if it was putting out anything.
I would check:
to see if the probe was all of the way in and making contact with the back contact in the accessory socket;
Aren't these sockets European and larger in diameter than than ours on this side of the pond? Maybe the probe isn't large enough in diameter to make good contact with the side of the socket.
Were both doors shut tight for that 10 days?
Was the accessory light left in the on position?
etc., etc.
If the green light is on, doesn't that mean the wall socket is live and the tender is connected to the battery?



BTW, I would connect right to battery, i.e. not use the cig lighter. I like reliable, secure direct connections, I guess.
 

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Even with a maintainer connected, a battery has a limited life span. If the battery will not fully charge, you might find that it has simply reached the end of it's life.
Michael
 

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what battery is this? Also, just because voltage measures well, doesn't mean it's good. Just get one of those battery testers...hand held device.
 

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you have to put the plug really straight, otherwise it won't charge. and after 3 weeks you're battery will be dead. recharge it slow and don't jumpstart it. you'll regret it.
 

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Wouldn't start. Here's the deal:

- Been sitting for about 3-4 weeks. Started it once (quickly) about 10 days ago.
- Has a Battery Minder on it. Plugged in vial the AC outlet accessory (not directly to the battery). Used it this way all last winter - no issues.
- Imobilizer light didnt' come on, however the dash lights/indicators did come on. I had the heater on last drive, so that did come on.
- Clickity click noise.
- Door lock/unlock and alarm didn't work.
I have experienced this same scenario twice with my 2010 Evora. The first time when the car was only about 9 months old. I had the car on a cheap float charger all winter, no problems. I drove it on a clear sunny day in February, then put the tender back on it. Two weeks later, the battery was dead.

I couldn't find anything wrong with either the float charger or the car battery, so I replaced the charger with a "Battery Tender" branded more expensive unit. I put it on the charger middle of November. Two weeks later, the battery was dead. The battery tender seems to be working just fine and the battery is still good.

In both cases, I was using the accessory outlet in the Evora's boot.

I do not know what happened either time. I speculate that I didn't seat the connector plug and that may have allowed the battery to drain back through the float charger and battery tender. Both units have built-in thermal protection, so perhaps they permitted the battery to drain with cooling off periods, so there was no damage? :shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have experienced this same scenario twice with my 2010 Evora. The first time when the car was only about 9 months old. I had the car on a cheap float charger all winter, no problems. I drove it on a clear sunny day in February, then put the tender back on it. Two weeks later, the battery was dead.

I couldn't find anything wrong with either the float charger or the car battery, so I replaced the charger with a "Battery Tender" branded more expensive unit. I put it on the charger middle of November. Two weeks later, the battery was dead. The battery tender seems to be working just fine and the battery is still good.

In both cases, I was using the accessory outlet in the Evora's boot.

I do not know what happened either time. I speculate that I didn't seat the connector plug and that may have allowed the battery to drain back through the float charger and battery tender. Both units have built-in thermal protection, so perhaps they permitted the battery to drain with cooling off periods, so there was no damage? :shrug:
Interesting. So was your battery officially toast? Did you just replace it?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just went and checked. BatteryMinder showed 'red light' that it's getting power from the outlet, but nada.

Nothing really turns on - no door locks, no stereo, very light dash light, etc.

However, the immobilizer light turns on/off and the alarm randomly went off.

So, I'm thinking the battery is dead.

Bought a yellow top Optima 35 for the deep cycle/colder weather. Also bought a voltometer to have around.

I'll install the battery tomorrow and give it a whirl.

Anything special I need to know about installing the battery? Anything goofy gonna happen with the immobilizer or anything?
 

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Just went and checked. BatteryMinder showed 'red light' that it's getting power from the outlet, but nada.

Nothing really turns on - no door locks, no stereo, very light dash light, etc.

However, the immobilizer light turns on/off and the alarm randomly went off.

So, I'm thinking the battery is dead.

Bought a yellow top Optima 35 for the deep cycle/colder weather. Also bought a voltometer to have around.

I'll install the battery tomorrow and give it a whirl.

Anything special I need to know about installing the battery? Anything goofy gonna happen with the immobilizer or anything?
Just make sure the alarm/immobilizer is disarmed before you disconnect the battery.
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Only the immobilizer will arm passively (automatically) in one minute after turning off the ignition and opening a door. The security light will be flashing if armed, so disconnect the old battery before it arms.
Michael
Ok, just so I'm crystal clear.

Just checked it and the security light was flashing. I pressed the alarm button on the fob and got 3 long beeps. Pressed it again and lights off (disarmed, I'm assuming).

Also, when it hit the small imobilizer button on the fob, nothing happens.

So, again, so I'm clear.

- Make sure security light is NOT flashing (alarm disarmed)
- turn off ignition/open door
- Disconnect battery within one minute before the immobilizer arms - negative cable first, then positive.
- Remove battery
- Install new battery - pos cable on pos terminal (red). Neg cable on neg terminal (black).
- start car. Hope for the best.

That about right?

Thanks again, BTW, I'm an impatient newb when it comes to this.
 

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Ok, just so I'm crystal clear.

Just checked it and the security light was flashing. I pressed the alarm button on the fob and got 3 long beeps. Pressed it again and lights off (disarmed, I'm assuming).

Also, when it hit the small imobilizer button on the fob, nothing happens.

So, again, so I'm clear.

- Make sure security light is NOT flashing (alarm disarmed)
- turn off ignition/open door
- Disconnect battery within one minute before the immobilizer arms - negative cable first, then positive.
- Remove battery
- Install new battery - pos cable on pos terminal (red). Neg cable on neg terminal (black).
- start car. Hope for the best.

That about right?

Thanks again, BTW, I'm an impatient newb when it comes to this.
You are more thorough and precise than most, you have it right.
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You are more thorough and precise than most, you have it right.
Michael
Thanks for your help and kind words.

'Thorough and precise = done right the first time, nothing screwed up and wife not pissed at me for spending too much time on my car!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Another dumb question - what tools you need to remove the battery?

I know it sounds dumb, but the car is offsite and I want to make sure I bring everything I need.
 
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