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Buying a new battery is a good option however it would be interesting to know what the actual state of the battery is and whether or not u have an unusually highly parasitic draw on it while installed.

Drained batteries can charge all the way but will go down to their maximum charge within a few minutes. If it goes down to 10.6V or less you probably have one or more shorted cells. Otherwise with a little effort the battery can be restored--but that's a whole other topic.
 

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Just take a selection of metric wrenches, (or adjustable) and you will be fine.
Michael
And Allen keys to loosen the battery mount.
 

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One could make a cogent argument that if you do not have a Volt meter and can measure current, then you might be better off bringing it somewhere to get the battery replaced.
And it is certainly the easiest option - The only tool you need then is the green, or plastic, wrench.

Being a battery you could just say "Charge it".
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Bought a $14 voltmeter and yep, battery was toast. 5.6 volts.

Bought a new Optima Yellow Top. Installed it in about 9 seconds. How easy - torx 30 to get the bracket off, unscrew the pos/neg, install and all good.

Car started immediately and all of the settings on the radio where still in tact. No snow yet here in Chicago (VERY uncommon), so I was able to drive the hell out of the car for a couple of hours. Man, what a good feeling!

Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

BTW - I guess I never looked but the battery that was in the car was a TINY little Carquest thing.

Thanks again everyone for your help (particularly Michael). I've never changed a battery in my car so love learning new things. Hey, every virgin has to get their first action eventually!
 

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Bought a $14 voltmeter and yep, battery was toast. 5.6 volts.

Bought a new Optima Yellow Top. Installed it in about 9 seconds. How easy - torx 30 to get the bracket off, unscrew the pos/neg, install and all good.

Car started immediately and all of the settings on the radio where still in tact. No snow yet here in Chicago (VERY uncommon), so I was able to drive the hell out of the car for a couple of hours. Man, what a good feeling!

Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

BTW - I guess I never looked but the battery that was in the car was a TINY little Carquest thing.

Thanks again everyone for your help (particularly Michael). I've never changed a battery in my car so love learning new things. Hey, every virgin has to get their first action eventually!
If you park in a garage, be sure to use a maintainer all the time.
Michael
 

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Interesting. So was your battery officially toast? Did you just replace it?
No, I have not replaced it yet. It is still holding a charge; although, after two deep discharges, I'm expecting it's life will be much shortened.
 

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Just make sure the alarm/immobilizer is disarmed before you disconnect the battery.
Michael
Or else what happens? What happens if you disconnect the battery while the alarm is armed? What happens if you disconnect the battery while the immobilizer is armed?

Since presumably I have about 60 seconds before the immobilizer arms itself, and so, 60 seconds to remove the battery. That is pretty much a guarantee the immobilizer will be armed when I remove the battery, because I'm pretty sure I won't manage to do it in 60 seconds. So, what happens when I remove the battery with the immobilizer armed?
 

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1. You can have the battery moved into trunk and the negative clamp loosened. This makes it a 10 second job.

2. Better: Follow SirL's instructions so alarm does not automatically arm. You arm it with the fob, only when you wish to.
 

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1. You can have the battery moved into trunk and the negative clamp loosened. This makes it a 10 second job.

2. Better: Follow SirL's instructions so alarm does not automatically arm. You arm it with the fob, only when you wish to.
Maybe, but I'd like to know what happens if I manage to screw it up, which knowing myself, seems exceedingly likely. Also, the battery's already low, and my key fob is already de-sync'ed, and doesn't seem to want to re-sync. So... fighting cobras seems inevitable. Maybe nothing worse happens than the boat I'm already in. Or, maybe the immobilizer commits suicide and takes the car with it. I don't know.
 

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Either 1 or 2 above will prevent. With no working fob, #1 is for you, I'd say.
 

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So there was no possiblity of disarming the alarm before removing the battery, as the fob was de-sync'ed and refused to sync. So, now, I'm locked out of the car. Manually unlocking the doors doesn't work because the design of the electronic locking system is crzay.

But, good news. After installing the new battery (and setting off the alarm when I closed the engine hatch) I decided to give re-sync'ing the fob another try, since, why not, I'm already locked out of the car -- and it worked! -- and unlocked the doors! Guess when I tried it before the battery was too low for it to work. It's so good to have the Elise back in operation! I've been kind of stressed out thinking about this cobra fight all week, glad it's over.
 

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Good for you.

Get a Battery Tender and try to avoid battery going so low.
 
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