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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I’ve read several forums on how finicky the battery’s on lotus cars can be given the parasitic draw and how dealers/ previous owners treat them. I find myself in a position where my 21 Evora GT has always started(even after a week or so), but when I do start it, it doesn’t strong as hope as I would like. It does not crank slowly or anything it just doesn’t roar to life as one would expect with a new car. It’s just kind of a meh start. A lazy start if you will.

I haven’t gotten a multimeter on it yet, but I connected it to the lotus tender over the weekend to charge it to 100%. This morning, the tender shows the battery fully charged. I went to turn on the car and expected it to roar to life because it was fully charged and the start was about the same as before. Could the load of the battery be the issue? Shouldn’t the car roar to life after coming off the tender? In normal operations after driving it around and starting it again, it starts strong.

Before forking over money for an anti gravity battery I’d like to make sure this is the most likely culprit.
 

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I've never noticed a difference in starting behavior whether it's fresh off the tender or sitting a week. The cold starts are always the consistent, and same with the warm starts (though less dramatic than cold starts). I recently switched to the Antigravity lithium ion, no discernable difference in starting behavior compared to the old lead acid.

If your car starts fine every time I wouldn't bother changing it out but that's just me.
 

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For peace of mind just bring your battery to any auto parts store and they will do a load test on it. That will tell you the health of your battery, You might want to also check the grounds from battery to engine and there's a link on the positive that's been know to come loose.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've never noticed a difference in starting behavior whether it's fresh off the tender or sitting a week. The cold starts are always the consistent, and same with the warm starts (though less dramatic than cold starts). I recently switched to the Antigravity lithium ion, no discernable difference in starting behavior compared to the old lead acid.

If your car starts fine every time I wouldn't bother changing it out but that's just me.
How would you say the cold starts are? Strong?
 

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Depends on how you want to define strong. I'd say it's strong, but you sound like you want it to lift a wheel off the ground when you start it. Pretty sure it doesn't do that but I haven't checked the cameras.
 

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2021 Evora GT - Epsom green/Zest yellow/Carbon pack
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I too have “meh” starts when the car is turned over after fully cooling down. That being said, I replaced my battery with a lithium antigravity that has significantly less CCA but I have never had an issue starting. Mine sounds as though it does a halfhearted crank and then “roars to life”. The tempo of the starter hasnt changed, but it does more of a lazy “vrrrrrrrrOOOOM” as opposed to the sharp, “starter-VROOM”
Again, zero issues starting and power is always in the green even while cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I too have “meh” starts when the car is turned over after fully cooling down. That being said, I replaced my battery with a lithium antigravity that has significantly less CCA but I have never had an issue starting. Mine sounds as though it does a halfhearted crank and then “roars to life”. The tempo of the starter hasnt changed, but it does more of a lazy “vrrrrrrrrOOOOM” as opposed to the sharp, “starter-VROOM”
Again, zero issues starting and power is always in the green even while cranking.
Thats really interesting. So it sounds like the half hearted crank could be normal? After letting the car sit overnight, I got a multimeter on it and it showed around 12.6 which I believe is relatively good health for a battery. I’ve never had any issue starting the car too, but I’m surprised that your new anti gravity battery didn’t make much of a difference when starting the car.
 

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When it comes to cold start, I always do a bit of a handshake with my car. That being said, I have a 2013 which doesn’t have the push button, just a key to twist. Here’s my procedure.
  • Hit the unlock button to disable the immobilizer
  • Put the key in and make sure the dials are both pointing to zero (mine speedo will float occasionally and I have to do a dumb reset to get back to zero)
  • Turn the key to On. This makes the dials spin to max and then back down. The fuel pump will prime. Wait for the pump to stop (you can hear it hum)
  • Return the key to full Off
  • Turn the key to On again. Dials will dance, then wait until the fuel pump finishes priming
  • Because I only have a key, I turn mine to Start for one or two revs, then back to On. The engine won’t start, but everything is primed.
  • Now start the car like a normal car. This results in a strong start for me every time.

    I think your fuel pump is tied to the key position in a 400/GT, so you can follow along up to that point. Perhaps that’ll help just by priming the fuel system twice when it’s cold.
 

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When it comes to cold start, I always do a bit of a handshake with my car. That being said, I have a 2013 which doesn’t have the push button, just a key to twist. Here’s my procedure.
Interesting. I like that structured start haha. I always leave the key turned for about 20 seconds before starting to make sure its fully primed.
 

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Thats really interesting. So it sounds like the half hearted crank could be normal? After letting the car sit overnight, I got a multimeter on it and it showed around 12.6 which I believe is relatively good health for a battery. I’ve never had any issue starting the car too, but I’m surprised that your new anti gravity battery didn’t make much of a difference when starting the car.
My resting voltage is always between 13.1v and 13.2v When I crank, voltage hits 11.12v. The battery CCA is 680 so it is considerably lower but again, no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Interesting. I like that structured start haha. I always leave the key turned for about 20 seconds before starting to make sure its fully primed.
See! This is the kind of info I was looking for. When I get in the car, I put the key in, turn it, and then immediately hit the start button. Perhaps not priming it is what is causing the meh starts. I’ll have to test it out. Does anyone else use this method to start their Evora?
 

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I have an S1. When I start mine I:

1. Hit immobilizer button
2. Turn key to allow needles to do a full sweep and return (some owners had issues with needles getting stuck if they tried to start it before the needles fully returned). This also allows time for a prime.
3. As soon as needles return, I turn the key and start the car.

I keep my car on a tender at all times. Car cranks over strong and always starts immediately without issue. It doesn't matter if it has been sitting for a day or for weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have an S1. When I start mine I:

1. Hit immobilizer button
2. Turn key to allow needles to do a full sweep and return (some owners had issues with needles getting stuck if they tried to start it before the needles fully returned). This also allows time for a prime.
3. As soon as needles return, I turn the key and start the car.

I keep my car on a tender at all times. Car cranks over strong and always starts immediately without issue. It doesn't matter if it has been sitting for a day or for weeks.
Makes sense. I’m imagining some potential buyer of a lotus reading through these forums thinking they need to remember all these little quirks haha
 

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Just put yet another battery in my '14S. Last battery was a $300 Odyssey Extreme. I figured it might survive being off the tender for more than a few days. Wrong. And today it wouldn't even try to crank after being on the tender. So much for my theory that buying the best battery would overcome the Evora's parasitic problems.
Today's replacement is a Deka Intimidator AGM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just put yet another battery in my '14S. Last battery was a $300 Odyssey Extreme. I figured it might survive being off the tender for more than a few days. Wrong. And today it wouldn't even try to crank after being on the tender. So much for my theory that buying the best battery would overcome the Evora's parasitic problems.
Today's replacement is a Deka Intimidator AGM.
I just bit the bullet and ordered an anti gravity battery. I’m willing to spend a few extra bucks and have the piece of mind that the battery won’t die on me. Also a plus is that the battery has a the built in wireless remote jump start so the car won’t leave you stranded since we all know how finicky the trunks are on these cars.
 

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Make sure your charger/maintainer is compatible with the AG battery.
 
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