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I'm about to order some oil for an oil change and figured I'd try this.
 

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Cool. Just ordered. Good deal on amazon for individual quarts.
 

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I just did two days ago; also got a killer deal off Amazon. Same for the filter and removal tool. Fine so far...
 

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Shell T6 Rotella 5W-40 Full Synthetic has just about the highest levels of Zinc protection out there. Royal purple is just fine, but not superior.
 

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It works good but add some ZDDP to it and use a RP filter, filtration isn't the highest but bursting pressure is much higher than most brands. K&N and MO1 are made by champion labs, are near identical and not as good. Use Rotella if you don't want to add the ZDDP.
 

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Illegal Alien
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It works good but add some ZDDP to it and use a RP filter, filtration isn't the highest but bursting pressure is much higher than most brands. K&N and MO1 are made by champion labs, are near identical and not as good. Use Rotella if you don't want to add the ZDDP.
If u cut apart a M1 and K&N they are not the same.
 

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Disciple of Chapman
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It works good but add some ZDDP to it and use a RP filter, filtration isn't the highest but bursting pressure is much higher than most brands. K&N and MO1 are made by champion labs, are near identical and not as good. Use Rotella if you don't want to add the ZDDP.

Is there a point where you have to much zinc protection
I was wary of the Rotella because of the high level protection and it said for turbodiesel only
Some of the 5W 40 weight oil's say for gasoline engines also


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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the zinc/phosphates are hard on catalytic converters, but not on internal engine parts (it is a good thing, as we know/has been discussed.)

Mobil 1 turbo Diesel truck also has high concentrations. Royal Purple IIRC as well as motul both sell 5w40 with high ZDDP levels, in addition to their standard 5w40.
 

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Illegal Alien
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Is there a point where you have to much zinc protection
I was wary of the Rotella because of the high level protection and it said for turbodiesel only
Some of the 5W 40 weight oil's say for gasoline engines also


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
Yes, too much does I crease the wear rate due to the higher metal concentrations. Up to 2200 ppm may be acceptable for engine break-in but not not continual usage. There is an SAE paper on this, 1500 is about normal upper limit.. a number of oils Redline, Shell Rotella, Mobil 1 to name a few have oils in the 1100 to 1400 range. Additionally good vs bad lubrication is a function if a lot more than just a ZDDP level.
 

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All good points. People forget the fact not only does oil lubricate but it cleans and cools also.

Yes, too much does I crease the wear rate due to the higher metal concentrations. Up to 2200 ppm may be acceptable for engine break-in but not not continual usage. There is an SAE paper on this, 1500 is about normal upper limit.. a number of oils Redline, Shell Rotella, Mobil 1 to name a few have oils in the 1100 to 1400 range. Additionally good vs bad lubrication is a function if a lot more than just a ZDDP level.
 

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If u cut apart a M1 and K&N they are not the same.
I just learned why the other day, and it's mildly interesting:

Back in the day, they were the same filters - both came from Champion Labs, a group owned by the same parent company as FRAM but operated separately.

In 2011 Champion Labs and FRAM were spun off and bought up by a private equity group, who decided to merge the Champion and FRAM operations. Mobil1 and K+N filters continued to be made in the same factories by the new "FRAM filtration."

In 2013 K+N decided they could get a better deal overseas and jumped ship to overseas manufacturing (some K+N filters are now made in Korea and some in Mexico). Mobil1 stuck with the FRAM/Champion manufacturing and so nothing changed.

The moral of the story is that you should be buying Mobil1 filters now, not K+N. As pointed out by the several other links in this thread, they're better in a lot of ways. I doubt a K+N filter would actually do any damage, but they didn't pass their cost savings on to consumers so why bother buying one?
 

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Illegal Alien
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The Toyota TRD filter can be purchased online a good price very similar (may be same). As M1 filter. Regarding filters read BOE filter review on their site.
 

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Filters, Lubricants, Etc..... Are like bung holes. We all have them and all have our opinions about them.

One thing you need to know about this forum is there is a lot of bovine fecal matter floating around and you have to weed thru it. Lots of opinions from people who don't work in the industry and don't know diddly but have strong opinions. Opinions they think are life and you should follow it.

I am a helicopter pilot by trade and don't know shat about cars or a Lotus for that matter, I have a fair amount of mechanical skills but what I have learned is from trial and error and a few chosen people I trust. I experiment and keep with what works for me.

Try what you can afford and work with it, factor in how you use your car and make a decision............Chances are there will be 12 ass wipes that will tell you that you are wrong. Do your homework.
 

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2013 Evora S since 11/13
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For the Oil Geeks out there

I have a Formula Ford race car (4 cyl, 1600cc) and have been running Brad Penn 10-40 Welcome! This came highly recommended by the engine builders especially since we have the old flat tappet push rod engines. Their web site has a bunch of technical data. Unfortunately, I don't see 5W-40 in the list. They also have others listed here Branded-Lubricants - Engine-Oils | American Refining Group
I just had the race engine rebuilt. They asked me which oil I was using and told them Brad Penn and they made no comments about any wear attributed to the oil.
I think this was the old Kendall GT1 as this is where they were located (Bradford, Pa) before they moved away). Anyway, just more for the debate.

Scott
 

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2013 Evora S since 11/13
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Speaking of Kendall GT1, I did notice this was available on Amazon.com
 
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