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Discussion Starter #1
I guess I am going to compete in a few more TT3 events this year, and especially at the next one at COTA I expect to be at the front of the pack so I want to give myself some chances to win and wanted to check
if there is anything ya'll see I am missing. I am currently 14 lbs too light with no splitter so I should be right in the ballpark after I add it back on. I also can add side sills?

Current mods are:
Power:
-Torque 300 package with your IC now and 4" duct from passenger side + roof duct.
-BWR Trans with Quaife LSD

Suspenson and tires
-Penske DA with 600-800 springs
-Car lowered to ~ 113/118FR on 225/45-15 A7 Front 245/40-17 A7 rear on TD 1.2 15x8 and 17x9
-Alignment is 0 toe front TINY bit in in the rear. Camber is maxed out front about 2.8 and rear is 2.5ish per checking tire temps @ COTA
-Tire pressures I have tried a few, seems like ~24 hot is the fastest @COTA, TWS this weekend on R7s 27 was nice I also tried 32 @ cota and it lasted a while without falling off but was ultimately 1s slower.

Aero:
I was running a splitter with ~ 4" lip but it was damaged hitting the ground @ cota. I have setup ride height higher and stiiffer and it should work better when I re make it.
Going to block off oil cooler holes
Diffflow Railer diffuser (not the track one) with wheelwell blockoff plates slightly damaged from upright failure but 90% flat.
2011 Replica CF wing from HKfever. Thinking about replacing this with a 71" (or whatever is max) GT-250 wing, or is there a better option?

Brakes:
CL6/8 F/R on stock 07 exige calipers. Old style BWR floating rotors.
Ordered Carbotech xp10 to try as well for better brake release.
Braking is terrible overall I feel, but the splitter makes it tolerable. So does driving better.

Other: Stock steering wheel on quick ratio steering rack, seats are stock with 5 point hole, wearing harness, no ABS or TC.

Was considering getting BOE manual brake master but I chose the IC first becuase COTA is next and it gets hot there.

This weekend I was at TWS on R7's in TT3 and I was 4 seconds off the pace. It was my 2nd time going there only. So proper tires and one more weekend and I think I am on the lead second. COTA I have lots of
track time on so I think I can get them there if I run stickers...
 

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Kevin,

What are your dyno numbers and weight I am just running rough numbers on the calculator and cant find a way to get it into tt3 seems like it should be tt2 or tt1 depending on power
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Jeff,

Note that the spreadsheet asks for AVERAGE horsepower. Which for NASA purposes means the average of the horsepower at the 4 highest 500 rpm increments. For us this means 8500 8000 7500 7000 RPM horsepower numbers, or about 235 "average" horsepower. Then weight is 2232.

I thought that you were going to switch to tracking your BMW?
 

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Kevin,

Definitely find a better rear wing than the wing you have. I would have to look around to let you know what would work best. As far as brakes, if you switch to XP10s you will most likely experience brake fade. I run XP12s but am looking at trying the new pads that BOE is selling since they are similar to CLs. Remember, if you change brake pad manufacturer, technically you need to put on new rotors to allow the pads to transfer their material to the rotor surface for optimal performance. You could also have your rotors surfaced to clean the old material off the rotors.

I would suggest a little bit of toe-in on the front, this will stop the instability when running in a straight line at higher speeds. I would suggest some where around 1/32 to 1/16 toe-in on the rear. It will help with oversteer on cornering. Your rear camber sounds about right but use a little shoe polish to check how far you are rolling over the edge. I would do the same with the front tires to also check how far you are rolling over the edge.

Also, if you remember seeing my rear diffuser, you will want to add the bottom flare outs on the outside edges of your diffuser.

Have you switched to a Water to Air IC, yet? That is about the only way you are going to solve your heat problem.

Side sills will help the underbody aero. If you can add the front wheel well vents, that would also be a good idea.

Have fun,
Eldon
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Kevin,

Definitely find a better rear wing than the wing you have. I would have to look around to let you know what would work best. As far as brakes, if you switch to XP10s you will most likely experience brake fade. I run XP12s but am looking at trying the new pads that BOE is selling since they are similar to CLs. Remember, if you change brake pad manufacturer, technically you need to put on new rotors to allow the pads to transfer their material to the rotor surface for optimal performance. You could also have your rotors surfaced to clean the old material off the rotors.

I would suggest a little bit of toe-in on the front, this will stop the instability when running in a straight line at higher speeds. I would suggest some where around 1/32 to 1/16 toe-in on the rear. It will help with oversteer on cornering. Your rear camber sounds about right but use a little shoe polish to check how far you are rolling over the edge. I would do the same with the front tires to also check how far you are rolling over the edge.

Also, if you remember seeing my rear diffuser, you will want to add the bottom flare outs on the outside edges of your diffuser.

Have you switched to a Water to Air IC, yet? That is about the only way you are going to solve your heat problem.

Side sills will help the underbody aero. If you can add the front wheel well vents, that would also be a good idea.

Have fun,
Eldon
Thanks Eldon, I do have another set of rotor surfaces to swap. Disappointing that you say they will fade as I bought them on Carbotechs recommendation.

Interested to hear what you suggest for a wing, I take it its not the APR?

I just got the upgraded A2A intercooler from BOE + 4" ducts, we will see if that helps...

Wheel vents, you mean the holes in the upper wheel well like a GT3RS has type of thing? Is there any guideline for what size and shape they should be?

How wide should the side sills be?

On your diffuser you have horizontal plates that go out from the bottom of the lowest point of the outside strakes then I take it? How far out do they go? How far back towards the tire?

Thanks!
 

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Interested to hear what you suggest for a wing, I take it its not the APR?

There is one popular APR wing that tested very poorly in the tunnel even though it look good. I would have to catch up with the engineer that did the testing.

I just got the upgraded A2A intercooler from BOE + 4" ducts, we will see if that helps...

Phil is pretty good on his recommendations but there is no substitute for W2A.

Wheel vents, you mean the holes in the upper wheel well like a GT3RS has type of thing? Is there any guideline for what size and shape they should be?

There are a couple of vendors selling them so you will have to go with the size they have. I can tell you that it is very popular on the IMSA cars.

How wide should the side sills be?

As wide as the wheel arches.

On your diffuser you have horizontal plates that go out from the bottom of the lowest point of the outside strakes then I take it? How far out do they go? How far back towards the tire?

They need to be about inch in size and run the whole length of the strake.

Later,
Eldon
 
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