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Discussion Starter #1
Time for the winter tear-down! Have had a few small and major issues come up I want to fix as well and cleaning up some of the wear and tear. Also lots of preventive maintenance and ease-of-use mods!

The Preliminary MUST list:
New SSC Shifter and Gate Cables ($750 OUCH)
BOE's Aluminum Radiator $450ish?
"TheChazz" V2 Front Splitter (I will be making during this thread)
Fix a small leak in the exhaust (Wrong size clamp)
All new brake pads all around
New rear brake rotors
Have brake Calipers cleaned, honed, shot peend, and powdercoated (Gloss Gunmetal maybe?)
Fix a small crack in the bottom of the front clam
Touch up paint
Replace Front and side rocker panel paint protection.


The Preliminary WANT list:
Radium quick release rear clam kit
New rear diffuser or a Custom mod to my stock panel
"TheChazz" Corner Light delete panels painted to match
Possibly a Wrap or Plasti-Dip of the car?
New seats!!!



Spent most of tonight cleaning out the mess I had in my shop and got the car on stands.

Just this past week on one of my final drives I snapped a shifter cable. Have also had a small leak in the radiator for the past few weeks.

Day1:
Car on stands.
Wheels Removed
Rear Diffuser removed
Engine under-panel removed
Side Underpanels removed
Front Splitter and Under panel removed






Tomorrow I will be Washing the car and undercarriage in prep for work. Front Clam will be off by the weekend.
 

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yes! i may have a set of shifter cables depending if i use these with my k20 swap. not sure yet. got a pic/roughdraft of the splitter?
 

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Knowing how quickly you move with working on your car, you will have a new list in a week or 2. Lol.
BTW, how do you plasti-dip the whole car without it looking like you sprayed it with a rattle can? I've seen parts of cars painted with plasti-dip and it looks O.K. at best. Maybe poor preparation or technique?


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App
 

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I plastidiped my Old Subaru with rattle cans and it turns out great! There is a website, dipyourcar.com that has actual spray kits to do it properly.

Excited to see you how it turns out buddie!
 

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What kind of seats are you considering?

I have my eye on the Composite worx seats but there isn't enough info on them out there.
 

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You could always go with the Corbeau seats that I got in mine. Their not a PERFECT OEM replacement, but they bolted up to my stock seat rails and I love the heck out of them. They work great with my Scroth harness.
 

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Welp not much for today so far, but more progress none the less. Washed the entire car, De-greased and scrubbed the fender-wells and suspension. Washed up the under-body as well.
Sorry for all these crap photos, I was pretty icky and didnt want to bring my DSLR out lol.






yes! i may have a set of shifter cables depending if i use these with my k20 swap. not sure yet. got a pic/roughdraft of the splitter?
Used cables? After this issue and the slop I had to begin with I think the SCC's upgrades are necessary for me.

The splitter will be drawn out once I get the materials. I will be making it about a 1/2" Shorter than before, rounding the nose out (instead of square to match the plinth) and Venting it to prevent pressure/dirt build up between the clam and splitter. I am also going to try and eliminate the Support rods. If I do still need them I will be trying some Billet supports.


Knowing how quickly you move with working on your car, you will have a new list in a week or 2. Lol.
BTW, how do you plasti-dip the whole car without it looking like you sprayed it with a rattle can? I've seen parts of cars painted with plasti-dip and it looks O.K. at best. Maybe poor preparation or technique?
Yea the lists will grow quite a bit. I am slo wanting to get into audio this winter and some CF work. This will be after its mechanically 100% again.

As for plasti-dip as mentioned above DipYourCar.com sells "kits" for large jobs. It is just like automotive paint in a way. It's sensitive to teqnique and skill. If applied correctly it comes out better than a wrap. My only issue with it is the overspray that will collect between body panels and whatnot. If I can find a way to mask for this Ill feel much better about it.
My wheels are Plasi-Dipped and look good enough I have had people argue with me and say they are powder coated. So Preparation and application are KEY.



I plastidiped my Old Subaru with ra... Excited to see you how it turns out buddie!
You could always go with the Corbeau seats that I got in mine. Their not a PERFECT OEM replacement, but they bolted up to my stock seat rails and I love the heck out of them. They work great with my Scroth harness.
Thanks much! I will be looking at all of my options.


Could you do a writeup on how you're making the splitter?
Ill see what I can do. This has become a product of mine of sorts. The hardest part is just the planning and drawing. The rest is just finding all the parts, taking your time, and lots of cutting.


What kind of seats are you considering?

I have my eye on the Composite worx seats but there isn't enough info on them out there.
I honestly have just been looking at some newer stock black seats. The Probax I think they are called? I dont want anything too crazy, and Id like them comfortable for extended drives. I take trips 1-2 hours each way often and have a 2800mi round trip planned for the spring.
 

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Thanks Tony

Chazz - Is it me or your rear brake disc blank? shouldn't it be the same as the front and drilled?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nope, stock's are blank in the rear to my knowledge. Only the fronts come stock drilled.

The replacements will probably be drilled.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Strange... Well they will be drilled again soon enough!

More progress today...
Friend came over and we tackled the front clam. Actually SUPER easy. Not as bad as it sounds.

Headlight covers off, fender-liners out, under tray already out, 3 bolts around hinges, 4 big bolts, spline nuts under the center bone were easy, I just put my hand through the middle of the bone with a 10mm socket... took a few seconds.

Also yanked the shift cables from the tranny and found the cable didnt break, the guide sleeve just poped out of the collet. I think its an easy fix?







Pic of the sleeve out of the collet:
 

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The splitter will be drawn out once I get the materials. I will be making it about a 1/2" Shorter than before, rounding the nose out (instead of square to match the plinth) and Venting it to prevent pressure/dirt build up between the clam and splitter. I am also going to try and eliminate the Support rods. If I do still need them I will be trying some Billet supports.
Can you elaborate on how you will be "venting it" to prevent pressure/dirt buildup between the clam and splitter.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Simply routed holes just under the clam out of view. This will slightly reduce the positive pressure buildup and therefore drag created by the splitter while keeping the down force effect.
 

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Simply routed holes just under the clam out of view. This will slightly reduce the positive pressure buildup and therefore drag created by the splitter while keeping the down force effect.
Got it. I thought that was what you meant but wanted to confirm. I'm wondering if something similar would help with the Evora splitter issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I had enough downforce with my V1 splitter to pull the car into the ground at 130-135. Though Id almost never see this speed again I wanted to resolve it.
 

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With the clam off, you really should consider dealing with the oil cooler lines, or at least replace the fittings like suggested in Phil's thread. Still kicking myself for not doing that with the clam off...
 
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