The Lotus Cars Community banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,322 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't know about the rest of you, but I find the automatic immobiliser to be a huge pain in the neck. Evidently the alarm needs to have this feature to earn a Thatcham Category 1 approval in the UK, which I am sure has something to do with insurance rates there.
I, for one, am happy to have the immobiliser come on only when I turn the rest of the alarm system on, which is to say, when I walk away from the car, not when I am sitting in it.
Because the Cobra alarm is programmable, one can turn the automatic immobilisation off. Just follow the lengthy (but not complex) process described in the installation manual (which may be found in a "sticky" in this forum). Without me going into too much detail, simply choose #7 from the "Functions Table". The immobiliser will then come on only in conjunction with the alarm. Everything else will continue to function normally.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,322 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
kepstein said:
Could you further explain how this is done? Does this make it so that the imobiliser works in conjunction with arming the alarm (i.e. pushing the button)?

Thanks,
Ken
Yes, the immobiliser will be activated when you push the button to lock your doors and set the alarm. I have confirmed this, at the cost of some of my hearing.

If you want to do it, the best thing is to download the Cobra Bridge installation manual which is in a sticky thread at the top of this forum, but here's the basic method.
1 Go through the "emergency" procedure to disarm/mobilise mentioned on page 33 of your Elise owner's manual, but detailed on page 36 (not p. 18, as mine says). Begin with step 3 (do not do steps 1 & 2 on pg. 36). When this is done successfully the alarm system lamp will come on and stay lit.
2 Press the "A" (large) button on the fob for 5 seconds; the lamp will blink ONE long flash (putting you in the Mode Table). But keep going.
3 Turn the key to Off, and then immediately back to On. The lamp will make TWO long blinks, indicating you are now in the Functions Table.
4 The lamp will then quickly begin to flash one flash at a time. Press the A button. It will flash quickly twice at a time. Keep pressing the A button till the lamp blinks seven quick flashes at a time. This is the function you want to choose.
5 Press the "B" (small) button to store this function.
6 Turn the key to Off. Wait at least ten seconds.
7 Your immobiliser will now only come on in conjunction with the active alarm and door locking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,322 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Santorium said:
I thought the purpose of the auto immobiliser was so that if you're going to be away for a while you can lock the car doors manually and have the alarm active? If you lock the doors using the fob and the battery runs out, you cannot open the doors until you've fixed it?
No, if you lock the doors so that the posts go down (either by hand, with the interior locking button, or using the fob), the only way to then open them (if the windows are up and the roof on) is to use the fob. If the battery is dead, you must restore power first.
This has nothing directly to do with the immobiliser which merely prevents the car from starting, whether or not you have activated the alarm (in the factory setting).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,322 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Miguel said:
Tyger, how many retries to enter your security code? :) good job, I thought doing it but don't have the patience and would have to find my pin ;)
It's not that hard. If you screw up, you just start over.
For those of you who leave the immobiliser on "auto", I suggest you memorize (or keep in your wallet) your PIN, for the inevitable day when your fob battery dies and you cant get to your backup fob. It is only a four digit number.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,322 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
TimMullen said:
When I park in the garage, I just let it auto immobilize as it's is much less of a battery drain then parking it with the alarm on (some times fro several days).
The drain from the alarm system is negligible: less than 14 milliAmps armed and 10 disarmed. You stand to save about 4 mA by leaving the alarm off.
As a comparison, the interior lamp alone draws about 440 mA.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,322 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
TimMullen said:
True, but even the manual points out that the battery will drain less with the alarm off. Even a few milliamps adds up to a bigger drain over an extended period of time.

Like I said, I don't bother with the car alarm in my alarmed garage. Everywhere else, the alarm is on...
Probably if you turned off the auto immobiliser in your alarmed garage you could even save a couple more mA! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,322 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Miguel said:
I have a question,

This is the function table:

1 blink Immobilizer on, alarm on, siren continous
2 blinks Immobilizer on, alarm on, siren Intermittent
3 blinks Immobilizer on, alarm on, siren controlled by B button in fob
4 blinks Immobilizer on, alarm off, siren continous
5 blinks Immobilizer on, alarm off, siren Intermittent
6 blinks Immobilizer on, alarm off, siren controlled by B button in fob
7 blinks Immobilizer off, alarm on, siren continous
8 blinks Immobilizer off, alarm on, siren Intermittent
9 blinks Immobilizer off, alarm on, siren controlled by B button in fob
10 blinks Immobilizer off, alarm off, siren continous
11 blinks Immobilizer off, alarm off, siren Intermittent
12 blinks Immobilizer off, alarm off, siren controlled by B button in fob

Note that it doesn't say that the immobilizer will be armed when the alarm is on, meaning that someone could hot wire your car and drive it with the alarm buzzing.

Is that right?
Actually what it says is "Passive Arming (immobiliser)" and "Active Arming"
Under Passive it should really say "(immobiliser ONLY)".
When you "actively" activate the system, the immobiliser is activated with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,322 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
demarco said:
The alarm manuals are not very clear at all, they basically describe the same things that are in the directions here, but the version posted here is much clearer.

I finally have one of the things i hate about the car fixed.

Thanks.

Vince
Sometimes it's easier when it's in (almost) plain english. Happy to be of help.
Tyler
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,322 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Miguel said:
I changed mine to #7 too, and before I did it was in #1 (one blink) I think that's the default.
It's hard to be sure what the default is/was. Now that you are on #7, you will notice that it will still blink only once now if you go back into the functions table. Both the functions and mode tables start with one blink, regardless of what the actual setting might be (in this case, now #7)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,322 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
MyElise said:
Well I did it but.....

Now when I set the alarm the LED blinks for about 4 seconds and then the buzzer comes on for about 20 seconds. Then it goes off and all is well.

I thought that I might have somehow reset the buzzer volume but I went into that area by turning the key off and on again and pushed the B button till the sound went off and then turned the key off. No difference.

Any ideas of how to stop that?
If the buzzer comes on for 20 seconds when you activate the alarm, it means that one of the sensors is tripped at the time of arming. The system will leave this sensor "out of the loop" once it is completely armed, if you do not first correct the problem.
Check to make sure the front panels are secure, and the doors and the engine lid are completely closed. Also, make sure your interior light is in the down position. On some cars the light is involved with the door circuit (on newer cars like mine (2575) Lotus seems to have corrected this anomaly).
If the light is down and all seems properly closed up, one of your sensors might be bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,322 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
MyElise said:
It worked perfectly until I reprogrammed it. I don't think it is a hardware issue. I tried sitting in the car, enabling the alarm and then moving to test the motion sensor. It worked fine. Today I will try resetting everything by disconnecting the battery.
As I said, the rest of the alarm will work fine. The tripped sensor will be left off the system, that's all. The problem you describe is not usually a software issue. If you haven't checked your cars openings first, you haven't checked the usual source of the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,322 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Raindem said:
OK I've got the immobilizer immobilized now. Definitely an improvement not to have to fiddle with that anymore.

Question: If I disconnect the battery (or otherwise lose power) does the alarm system revert to it's previous state when power is restored? In other words, will I have to do change the options again?
The alarm has its own backup power source (e.g. to sound the alarm if someone messes with the battery) so the settings shouldn't change, at least in the short run.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top