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How about a poll asking: 1) immobilizer has always worked fine, I use it regularly 2) I have reprogrammed successfully and am satisfied 3) I have reprogrammed but the functions return and continue to plaque me 4) I gave up and lock the doors with the key 5) I am in an institution in large part due to this evil technology from Cobra
 

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Just to be clear. Have both of you tried NOT skipping steps 1 & 2 as I've noted above?

neckstrap, if you live near Boston, I'll give it a once (or thrice) through if you like.

Any chance of video taping what you're doing? Perhaps I could video tape how I shut it off, but I don't know when I'd get around to that.
 

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Keeper,

If you can think of ANY way to try it, I've done it. Probably more than 50 times. Windows up and down, center light in each position, disconnect/reconnect battery, with the fob in steady state and not, waiting for the click in the engine compartment after each digit, seatbelts connected/not connected, I've disconnected the wires from each switch and shorted them with jumpers.

The only thing I cannot try is to have the airbags working, I haven't got a new controller yet. That really shouldn't matter. I am an Electronic Technician and a Computer Geek and an IT Manager. I build computers......you don't think this isn't driving me crazy?

Since my car was wrecked, I am starting to think that the alarm itself is defective or a device connected to it is. I need to figure out how to bypass this thing so I can get it to the paint shop on Saturday. I guess it's time to take the dash apart.

Thanks for the offer Keeper, however Los Angeles is about as far away as I could be in the continental US.

Paul
 

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Actually, Agoura Hills and Irvine are among the few places I travel to on business these days, so you're a lot closer than you think. However I won't be there tomorrow.

You didn't say that you did NOT skip steps 1 & 2 above, but that was the only way I could get it to work.
 

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Keeper said:
Actually, Agoura Hills and Irvine are among the few places I travel to on business these days, so you're a lot closer than you think. However I won't be there tomorrow.

You didn't say that you did skip steps 1 & 2 above, but that was the only way I could get it to work.
I've skipped those steps...makes no difference. All I can figure is that some of us may have a firmware bug or something. Time to study the diagrams for a manual disconnect I guess.
 

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Keeper,

Step one is to hold down both buttons on the key fob until it goes off, then let go until it goes on solid. Step two is to do the same with additional fobs. I have done this plenty of times.

Then, you go through the key switching procedure, until the code is entered. Then, you turn the key back on and the tach light is supposed to stay on. When I turn the key back on, the tach light briefly flashes and goes out. I have tried hitting the fob A switch during the brief flash, but no good. If you have any more suggestions, please write.

While driving the car to the paint shop today, (without a windshield) I turned on the AC fan. I got showered in little bits of broken glass from the dash vents. When I turned the knob to defrost, my face was pelted with the stuff. When I went around a corner, I could hear broken glass sliding around and more blew out. The dash DEFINATELY has to come apart. If anyone knows how to disable the alarm, I would really like to hear about it.

Paul
 

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DAVE!

I've just had another thought. On many alarm systems, the drivers door key switch resets the system. I have not tried this because I have replaced the driver's door and don't have a key for that switch. My next project will be to replace the door lock with the one from the old broken door. Maybe, after I reset the system with the door switch, the procedure will work right......

Dave, have you tried this?

Man, I cannot believe the attention I get in this car! Of course mine is Krypton Green, with a red driver' door, a midnight blue front clam and a silver door mirror. I had a Taxi driver frantically beep his horn and race up next to me and yell, "Do you want to sell that car?" Kids just smile real big when they see it, like it's a giant toy car.

Paul
 

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neckstrap said:
If you have any more suggestions, please write.
Are you sure you have the right PIN? Yes or no, it appears to be at the core of the problem. Ignoring programming for a moment, can you disable your alarm using your PIN?
 

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neckstrap said:
I've just had another thought. On many alarm systems, the drivers door key switch resets the system.
It won't work on the Elise. The keyed door lock is totally separate from the alarm system. The key can't even unlock the door if it was locked with the remote.
 

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neckstrap said:
Keeper,

If you can think of ANY way to try it, I've done it. Probably more than 50 times. Windows up and down, center light in each position, disconnect/reconnect battery, with the fob in steady state and not, waiting for the click in the engine compartment after each digit, seatbelts connected/not connected, I've disconnected the wires from each switch and shorted them with jumpers.

The only thing I cannot try is to have the airbags working, I haven't got a new controller yet. That really shouldn't matter. I am an Electronic Technician and a Computer Geek and an IT Manager. I build computers......you don't think this isn't driving me crazy?

Since my car was wrecked, I am starting to think that the alarm itself is defective or a device connected to it is. I need to figure out how to bypass this thing so I can get it to the paint shop on Saturday. I guess it's time to take the dash apart.

Thanks for the offer Keeper, however Los Angeles is about as far away as I could be in the continental US.

Paul
1. use a pry tool to pop off the blank panel on the passenger side of the dash.
2. use a hook tool to grab the alarm harness.
3. seperate the wires at pin 18 and cut.
4. patch to ground.
 

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It's not quite clear

Rob,

This sounds promising! From the procedure you described, it sounds like I should cut the wire connected to pin 18? Which side of the wire should be connected to ground?

Thank you very much,
Paul
 

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I'll try this

Dave,

I think I understand what he means. I have heard of a method to do this. It will totally disable the alarm system and immobilizer. No fob features. Use the key to open/lock the door. Get in, turn the key and go.

I'll try it tonight.

Keeper,

If I didn't have the right PIN, I wouldn't be able to start the engine and drive the car. It's just the fob that cannot be programmed. Without that, You have to go through all the steps, EVERY TIME!

Paul
 

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neckstrap said:
Keeper,

If I didn't have the right PIN, I wouldn't be able to start the engine and drive the car. It's just the fob that cannot be programmed. Without that, You have to go through all the steps, EVERY TIME!

Paul
I just did a re-read of your posts, I think I've completely misunderstood your problem. I thought most posters on this thread are just looking to disable the immobilizer. Your saying your fob won't even disable your alarm? Sorry, when you said you have the same problem as Dave you threw me. It doesn't sound like you do have the same problem or objective as Dave.
 

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It works for some! Don't be discouraged by those having unfortunate problems. Mine disabled on the first try!

One tip. Fasten your seat belt. Seriously, I was trying to count and the seat belt buzzer was going at a different rhythm than the light in the alarm. Tough if walking and chewing gum is a challenge. Good luck.
 

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Well, I pulled the dash apart. I accomplished a couple of goals. I cleaned a ton of broken glass out of the vent and defroster system. I got the Alpine sterio out and now I have a model and serial number so maybe I can find a repacement front panel. Since the windshield was out, I was able to get to the alarm system. Even then it was REALLY HARD! With the dash top off and the vent tube that passes over it removed, I could pull all the foam out of there and carefully disconnect the harness connector. There is no way to be sure which pin is 18. I will not take chance of cutting the wrong wire and my wiring diagram doesn't even show 18 connected to anything.

Any suggestions (wire color) will be appreciated,
Paul
 

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neckstrap said:
There is no way to be sure which pin is 18. I will not take chance of cutting the wrong wire and my wiring diagram doesn't even show 18 connected to anything.
Instead of cutting the wire, remove it from the plug. There will be a "clip" on the side of the connector in the plug that you can depress and pull the wire/connector from the plug. That way, it can be restore to original someday, and you won't have butchered the wiring harness. You can also simply plug another connector in the removed connector to connect a wire to ground. Cleaner, reversible, and you don't create future problems.

As for the wire color, I believe all the wires going to the alarm are black simply to make it more difficult for a thief to disable things. However, if you get the alarm manuals (there's a sticky and link in one of the forums), the installation manual includes a diagram that shows the numbering of the pins in the plug and what each wire is for...

But why not just do the reprogramming (in the manuals and detailed in other threads) to simply disable the alarm from functioning automatically. Simpler, and can be changed back easily. :shrug:
 

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Tim,

I FOUND THE WIRING DIAGRAM! YEAH!

Now, I know which wires to ground. Yes, Tim I was hoping to do exactly as you suggested and just remove the pin from the connector. I'll try that next.

The reason that I cannot disable the alarm through the program is that I cannot get the system to the step where the fob is recognized. Without the fob, you cannot get into the mode to change anything. I wish I could just do a complete reset of the alarm. However, I suspect that it's internal device is an EEPROM. That's an Electronically Erasable Programmable Only Memory. Usually these are used in simple computer systems to store the program. When the system is turned on, the program is read into the processor and runs from there. It is the device that connects to all the sensors and gets inputs from the switches. Usually EEPROMS are erased with a higher than normal voltage. Maybe 14 volts instead of 5. It's possible that when the airbags blew in my car, a higher voltage through the cable harness erased a bit of the program in the EEPROM. The only way to fix it, is to replace the alarm box. Reprogramming the EEPROM can only be done at the factory. It's a lot like the car's ECU, but simpler.

I'll just try the bypass for now and watch for a Cobra Alarm for sale.

Thank you,
Paul
 
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