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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My main long term storage does not have power so if I stay with them, my battery would be unhooked. Or I guess left to die and sit for 6 months.

Based on conversations with the dealership service manager, that does not seem to be a great idea. I also have read comments about possible ECU frying when unhooking/rehooking? (Albeit seems rare)

My other option is to drive out of the city 45 mins extra and go to a storage spot that has power for my trickle charger.

Any comments on best option and whether unhooking the battery for winter storage should be avoided at all costs.
 

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2006 Lotus Elise
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I have a lightweight race battery with a kill switch. I cut power from the battery every time I park the car, including over the winter from November to April. I've never had the car not start, even after sitting in an unheated garage for 5 months. I hope my ECU does not fry, I've not heard of that and have not experienced it, knock on wood.
 

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I think I had read a few comments about the risk of unhooking this battery but perhaps just myth.
The ECU fry issue is generally caused when trying to jump the car with the key in the ignition and hooking up the cables. Crossed cables or an unwanted voltage spike can cause a COMMS FAILURE.

There should be no issues disconnecting or connecting the battery as long as you wait the recommended 30 minutes for all the systems to shut down before you disconnect and not have the key in the car when you reconnect.
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Huh. Never knew about the 30 min wait time. Is this a rule of thumb for modern cars or specific to Evora? I often kill my Elise's battery before 30 min has passed, no issues.
 

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Huh. Never knew about the 30 min wait time. Is this a rule of thumb for modern cars or specific to Evora? I often kill my Elise's battery before 30 min has passed, no issues.
It's probably specific to the EFI ECU they decided to use in the Evoras, although EFI does make ECUs for other marques (I think Lambo?), so it would be interesting to know if they have similar requirements.
 

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Huh. Never knew about the 30 min wait time. Is this a rule of thumb for modern cars or specific to Evora? I often kill my Elise's battery before 30 min has passed, no issues.
It's hit or miss but '05 were very susceptible to losing the VIN in the ECU if the battery died.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The ECU fry issue is generally caused when trying to jump the car with the key in the ignition and hooking up the cables. Crossed cables or an unwanted voltage spike can cause a COMMS FAILURE.

There should be no issues disconnecting or connecting the battery as long as you wait the recommended 30 minutes for all the systems to shut down before you disconnect and not have the key in the car when you reconnect.
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Thank you for this. Does the IPS Trans add further wrinkle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's hit or miss but '05 were very susceptible to losing the VIN in the ECU if the battery died.
Easiest storage for me has no power so I would have to remove the battery. Other facility would allow trickle charger plugged in but is an hour away. Seems like unhooking the battery shouldn't be that huge of a deal with these cars then?
 

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Easiest storage for me has no power so I would have to remove the battery. Other facility would allow trickle charger plugged in but is an hour away. Seems like unhooking the battery shouldn't be that huge of a deal with these cars then?
Nope, just don't close the hatch, otherwise you'll have to rely on the emergency cable to open it, and that's known to be a hit-or-miss type thing.
 

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It might not be ideal but better than no charging.

I have a portable power inverter that works off a standalone car battery. You can leave a trickle charger plugged in to the inverter powered by the second car battery.

It won't be a perfect solution but could be a week or two based on how long it takes for the trickle charger to drain the second battery.
 

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Charging or disconnecting (I'd disconnect personally, abiding the 30 min wait ofc), trip the trunk latch with your key/similar stick so the car thinks trunk is shut, yet the latch will not actually latch the trunk shut. Set the trunk down gently.

No worries about locking yourself out of the trunk that you can't open cus of the disconnected battery in the trunk.
 

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My car has had battery disconnected for past 2+ months while it is dismantled. Battery left on its Shorai charging awaiting the return to life. Non issue. Jump starting incorrectly is the single biggest issue...............do things to avoid this. So nothing wrong with winter storage with disconnected battery as long as you maintain boot access.
 

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It's hit or miss but '05 were very susceptible to losing the VIN in the ECU if the battery died.
This is me. Every time I disconnect my battery or it dies, I lose the VIN in one way or another. First way is that is goes back to 'default'. Although the ECU is the one it was built with, they programmed my 2006 with a '7' in the VIN year digit leading to a mismatch... oops. Otherwise, I lose the VIN entirety and it throws a CEL. All this because the VIN is stored in volatile memory.
 

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This is me. Every time I disconnect my battery or it dies, I lose the VIN in one way or another. First way is that is goes back to 'default'. Although the ECU is the one it was built with, they programmed my 2006 with a '7' in the VIN year digit leading to a mismatch... oops. Otherwise, I lose the VIN entirety and it throws a CEL. All this because the VIN is stored in volatile memory.
Did you wait 30 min before disconnecting after turning off engine? I read where if reflashed it will take care of of it.
 

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Did you wait 30 min before disconnecting after turning off engine? I read where if reflashed it will take care of of it.
Yeah, I waited about 3 months :D I went to drive it after storing and found the battery was dead - even on a tender. I think the battery was near end of life when it went into storage. I haven't had a dead battery since it was replaced and re-flashed, but I am hopeful.
 

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Yeah, I waited about 3 months :D I went to drive it after storing and found the battery was dead - even on a tender. I think the battery was near end of life when it went into storage. I haven't had a dead battery since it was replaced and re-flashed, but I am hopeful.
If you get power outages that will not restart your tender sometimes and give you a false sense of everything ok. Give your battery a higher amperage charge and then have it load tested. That will let you know if battery is salvageable.
 
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