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Discussion Starter #1
So, this happened...
1260137


I was under the impression that this was an easy part...
So I’m guessing that i need a new tool, any recommendations on something that wont break? and or a technique to help.
my thoughts:
  • add some heat
  • tap with hammer to help shake loose
  • add some penetrating oil to the taper
  • cut it off with an angle grinder :/

thanks guys
 

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Go to your auto parts store and borrow the pickle fork kit, use penetrating oil. They all came out easy except one corner and I beat on it for hours all while rotating around it so it was getting in impacting force distributed more evenly.
 

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He's on fire!
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i've never liked pickle fork because I tend to mess up the boots with them. Honestly I'd just buy another ball joint separator, from some other outfit.
 

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Put the pin under load and "Smack" the side of the control arm with a metal hammer. The vibration of the impact will free the pin.

Later,
Eldon
 

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I don't have anything to offer.

However I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one who breaks tools.
 

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2007 Lotus Exige S
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I've broke one of those before and stripped threads on one as well. I also put pressure on the ball joint and then use the hammer method to help, sometimes it works great and sometimes one will take a really long time.
 

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2005 Elise LSS Saffron Yellow
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Put the pin under load and "Smack" the side of the control arm with a metal hammer. The vibration of the impact will free the pin.

Later,
Eldon
This. Smacking the 'socket' end of the pressed-cone fit will upset the seal and it will usually pop right out. My SOP is to put the 7 pound rock hammer on one (anvil) side, and whack it with the two pound ball-peen on the opposite side. It deforms the conical seat the ball joint is stuck into with surprisingly little effort.
 

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Assuming you bought the ball joint tool from a place that offers free replacements, go back and get another one. Use it to put pressure on the joint but stop short of the torque you used that broke the first tool. Apply heat to the casting the ball joint taper fits into with a propane torch, careful not to burn the boot. Then pop it with the two opposing hammers. All those together should get any ball joint without doing any damage.

I would only use a pickle fork as a last resort, they always tear things up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys, I have some things to try this weekend.
 

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That's interesting about the free replacement. Canadian Tire gives free replacements on its tools. One time I found out by accident. The normal cash was busy so I went through customer service to pay. I had both the new tool and the old broken tool in my hand. I was about to pay and they said "No payment needed...that's a free replacement".
 

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42 seconds in...
 

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That only works if the spring is putting tension on the lower control arm with respect to the upper. On our cars, this does not happen.

Later,
Eldon
 

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I went out on a binge and bought these from Samstag Sales:

Stahlwille 12616
Kukko 129-0-25

They worked like a charm.
1260190
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks for the advice guys. I was unable to get the top ball joint off on the car so I took the whole a arm off and smacked it in my vice. If the mating object is a larg(er) metal part it is definitely easier...
1260225

1260226
next is to deal with the castle nut on the rear axle. Any advice on that? would the handbrake and 1st gear be enough to hold the hub still when using a 3 ft cheater bar? Or am I going to have to but everything back together and put the car on the ground?
 

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You need to use an air impact wrench on the rear axle nut. If this is not possible, put the car in gear and handbrake on as hard as you can get it. If you do not have wheel studs, put two wheel bolts in and snug them down. Get a long screw driver or pry bar and put it between the two wheel bolts. Use this as leverage against your breaker bar on the axle nut.

Later,
Eldon
 

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Wow you really took the long route to replace your ball joints. Are you upgrading your bushings at the same time and refreshing all hardware? I hope you took photos and or counted your washers on each side of your bushings that's your castor adjustment. I wanted to avoid going that route until I was ready to do complete refresh. There was surprisingly no damage using pickle fork like I and others were worried about and it took heat, penetrating oil 7lb hammer and two hours of beating just for that one corner. The others came right apart.
 
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