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Had my 2007 Exige s to the dyno, but are not satisfied with the result, almost looks like a car without supercharger. It has a 2bular exhaust, and a komo-tec remap. Any thoughts?


Keep in mind wheel-measured horsepower is about 80-90% of the power quoted at the crank due to losses in the transmission and driveline. 180hp at the wheels is in line with 220 at the crank, generally. So, it does look like the exhaust and tune did precisely nothing, but there is definitely more than the NA motors produce at the wheels.


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shay2nak
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he's saying this car should be 260whp. Too bad you didn't put it on the dyno before the mods for a baseline. I'd bet it's the knock sensor. I'd contact KomoTec and ask them about it.
 

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I bought the car with these upgrades, and only have a invoice from Komo-Tec that spesifies that it has had a remap, and new airbox. Sendt them an email, but there was not much they could do, without having the car there, and that is a problem, since they are located i Germany, 1500km and a 4 hour boat trip away from me. I am aware of the driwetrain loss, but as much as 40hp seems like a bit more than it should be (i've been told they normally calculate with 12% loss)
What do you meen about the knock sensor could this "steal" the horsepower that is missing? I do not get any fault up when diagnosing the car.
 

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shay2nak
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I bought the car with these upgrades, and only have a invoice from Komo-Tec that spesifies that it has had a remap, and new airbox. Sendt them an email, but there was not much they could do, without having the car there, and that is a problem, since they are located i Germany, 1500km and a 4 hour boat trip away from me. I am aware of the driwetrain loss, but as much as 40hp seems like a bit more than it should be (i've been told they normally calculate with 12% loss)
What do you meen about the knock sensor could this "steal" the horsepower that is missing? I do not get any fault up when diagnosing the car.
You won't get any codes. The knock sensor picks up noises in the block (motor) and if it's loud, it will pull the timing and reduce power. No one knows it's happening until the go to a dyno or feel the car isn't as powerful anymore. It's a known problem on tuned cars putting out lots of power. The fix is to remove the sensor or redo the table of values for the sensor or shut it off via a tune.
 

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I bought the car with these upgrades, and only have a invoice from Komo-Tec that spesifies that it has had a remap, and new airbox. Sendt them an email, but there was not much they could do, without having the car there, and that is a problem, since they are located i Germany, 1500km and a 4 hour boat trip away from me. I am aware of the driwetrain loss, but as much as 40hp seems like a bit more than it should be (i've been told they normally calculate with 12% loss)
What do you meen about the knock sensor could this "steal" the horsepower that is missing? I do not get any fault up when diagnosing the car.

PLEASE tell me you are running premium gas or higher!

The knock detection should be completely OEM. The sensor and detection thresholds should not have been changed ever, so it may be picking up actual knock. If that is the case then disconnecting the sensor will most certainly result in a completely destroyed engine. Do not do that as a diagnostic. Rather, you should be able to plug in an OBDII scanner and read the number if knock events. If that goes up when you do a pull, then the engine is knocking and pulling spark out to compensate and protect the engine. Not enough octane is a likely culprit. The causes are varied though - bad gas, not enough intercooling, too much spark, too much boost, too lean, etc.


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Baseline before Rev300..

Here's my baseline. Larini sport exhaust, no cat and ITG drop in filter with no snorkel are the only mods. Car has 25K of miles..

Pretty happy, esp with the 90deg heat and high humidity we had today... but can't wait to get my SC!

Ken 06 Exige
 

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Stock exhaust, REV300:
 

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My 2004 Elise -

Baseline vs. post mod on BOE's new dyno. Phil put the REV400/ITG intake in last week. 292 hp to the wheels after tuning vs. 163whp stock. Massive flat torque. Stock cat and manifold still in place!!. Completely stock motor & tranny. BOE Silent Touch exhaust. Street car for New Hampshire's back roads..Extraordinary car. Can you say "space shuttle?


Nice results! Do you know what size pulley you are running?


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Komiko sold car. Long gone.
 

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Don't have a baseline plot... just didn't have the knowledge/ambition before I started modifying, but I finally got to the point of getting it tuned, so here's a Moderate NA build:

Stock Bottom (stock compression), 8500 rpm limit
Fidanza Flywheel,
Exedy 3 puck clutch
MWR alternator & water pump pulleys
JCR Fab Head (ported, Ferrea valves, Eibach springs)
Piper Stage 3 cams
NGK Plugs,
Bosch 550 injectors
Emtron Ecu with Tuning by Pavlotech
Fujita F5 intake
PPE Header
PPE decat
BOE Silent Touch Exhaust
Supertrap (costs about 2-3hp, but necessary to pass [email protected] soundmeter).

That's all running on 98 octane which is probably not necessary but fluids are cheap compared to engines, and it probably ensures that nothing is left on the table for what I do have. Deficiencies from the aggressive builds described by DRS, and posted by Boosted 2.0/Sleepless are:

No Piston work
No lightened internals
No ITB or DD Perf intake headder
Not spinning to high RPM (mostly because no oil pump gear upgrade).

So those things seem to get you up to 30-35 hp beyond what I have, 20-25 more @8500. Not quite sure why we're getting a dip in tq around 4500 rpm with my setup. Looks like my peak tq numbers are already as high or higher than any NA build I've found graphs for. Just need to keep it from flopping so much after 7k and I could maaaaybe break 200, I see intake mods in my future :).

One pull without the super-trap yielded 195/142.

Anyway here's the graph:
 

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