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I finally managed to get the ShiftR111 and the GRP carbon fiber console buttoned up. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

I added one 1/4" and one 1/2" steel sheath over the springs in order to reduce left/right play. I also added a 3D printed TPU stop to limit left travel (with a slit to allow easy addition and removal).

I used a small strip of Velcro (front and back) to allow me to apply the leather boot after the console was installed. This was partly because the clips would not grab on the GRP part, but also because it was much easier to do it this way. It seems secure and can be removed easily.
 

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Less is Better
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Discussion Starter #82
I finally managed to get the ShiftR111 and the GRP carbon fiber console buttoned up. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

I added one 1/4" and one 1/2" steel sheath over the springs in order to reduce left/right play. I also added a 3D printed TPU stop to limit left travel (with a slit to allow easy addition and removal).

I used a small strip of Velcro (front and back) to allow me to apply the leather boot after the console was installed. This was partly because the clips would not grab on the GRP part, but also because it was much easier to do it this way. It seems secure and can be removed easily.
Nicely done. I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced the crossgate friction that I have?
 

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Discussion Starter #83
I removed the console and tried to find the source of friction in the shifter assembly. I don't think it's the cable itself, as I could pretty easily move the cable when I disconnected it from the shifter. I think I noted in part 2 of my replacement video that the crossgate in the ShiftR was noticeably tighter than in the stock system. When I played with it today, moving the shifter side to side with the cable detached did appear to be the source of the friction. To address this I loosened up the crossgate pivot bolt and applied some teflon/silicone lube to the mechanism. The bolt has a shoulder on it and it does need to be tightened all the way to hold the spring stop mechanism firmly but it also has some nylon washers at both ends to allow for motion of the crossgate arm. I also lubricated the ball joints at the base of the shift arm, the one that allows for motion of the shifter and the one that translates the side-to-side motion to the crossgate arm. This did seem to have a positive effect on the crossgate friction but I didn't get a chance to drive the car after the lubrication treatment. So I'll report back when I have done so.
I got a chance to get out for an hour or so of driving yesterday and am happy to report that the friction issue is gone. The lever centers to neutral much more positively and moving between gates has a nice, smooth feel. For all intents and purposes, this modification is complete with these final adjustments. The shifts feel great, very mechanical and direct which is completely fitting with the personality of the car. Gates are clear and the lever and entire mechanism feel robust and precise.

Some final thoughts:

The ShiftR is a really nice piece of equipment. Its an engineered product made from high quality materials. Some time down the road I might take the lever off and bend it to the right as the factory does. I can feel the lever against my knee in first. It's not touching me in second so doesn't restrict any motion, but the extra bit of clearance is missed. It also really doesn't fit perfectly with the stock console. It can be made to fit, but there's a pretty decent amount of fiddling involved and reverse still interferes with the console.

With the friction issue addressed, it functions well without perceptible slop or functional issues. Coming from a car that had smooth, mechanical and slop free shifting with the Stan's mod stock mechanism, the ShiftR and upgraded cables just didn't make much of a difference. If this is the case for you, I'd put my money somewhere else (but still at Inokinetic!) If coming from a car with a sloppy vague shift due to wear or damage, this is an almost essential upgrade and will restore your car to the level that it was when new, or at least to the level that mine was when new.
 

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Less is Better
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Discussion Starter #84
Another bit of info. I found that relocating the hanger at the transmission for the shifter cables as Inokinetic recommends causes it to interfere with the central NACA duct in the belly pan which, in turn, causes a vibration in the car at idle. So I recommend not relocating the hanger.
 

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Yes reverse will hit the stock console. To solve this I added a bump stop for the reverse gate. I like how the ShiftR111 has a 1st-2nd gate adjustable stop. I don't remember this being marketed, but I predict it will solve my random missed shifts issue because I think the stock setup was hanging on the gate stop.

Because this worked so well I also made an adjustable 5th-6th gate bump stop, it works like a dream now!

Oh, and I made my own aluminum stock console mounts that were the right height and saved 85 grams!

:shift:
The built in reverse lockout stop nicely defines the 1-2 gear change location. I like your idea of adding a 5-6 adjustable hard stop. I see you used a carriage bolt and threaded spacer with a locknut. I will probably do the same. Did you tap the baseplate? I hope there is room to tap it without removing the crossgate assembly, which would involve basically removing most of the Shiftr111 setup.
 

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I got a chance to get out for an hour or so of driving yesterday and am happy to report that the friction issue is gone. The lever centers to neutral much more positively and moving between gates has a nice, smooth feel. For all intents and purposes, this modification is complete with these final adjustments. The shifts feel great, very mechanical and direct which is completely fitting with the personality of the car. Gates are clear and the lever and entire mechanism feel robust and precise.

Some final thoughts:

The ShiftR is a really nice piece of equipment. Its an engineered product made from high quality materials. Some time down the road I might take the lever off and bend it to the right as the factory does. I can feel the lever against my knee in first. It's not touching me in second so doesn't restrict any motion, but the extra bit of clearance is missed. It also really doesn't fit perfectly with the stock console. It can be made to fit, but there's a pretty decent amount of fiddling involved and reverse still interferes with the console.

With the friction issue addressed, it functions well without perceptible slop or functional issues. Coming from a car that had smooth, mechanical and slop free shifting with the Stan's mod stock mechanism, the ShiftR and upgraded cables just didn't make much of a difference. If this is the case for you, I'd put my money somewhere else (but still at Inokinetic!) If coming from a car with a sloppy vague shift due to wear or damage, this is an almost essential upgrade and will restore your car to the level that it was when new, or at least to the level that mine was when new.
Thanks for the write up and videos. I’m tackling Shifter111, SSC cables, and LETSLA installation all together. The Shiftr111 is so much more precise than my sloppy 2005 OE setup with the B&M lever upgrade. I think it’s mainly due to wear of the OE parts. I’m planning on running the setup naked so I’m not worried about that crappy console cover! Your posts have helped me immensely!

Now I’m just waiting for some 1/4” rod ends because my SSC cables shipped somehow with metric rod ends :(. Bought it quite a while back, so contacting the vendor probably is not fair.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Thanks for the write up and videos. I’m tackling Shifter111, SSC cables, and LETSLA installation all together. The Shiftr111 is so much more precise than my sloppy 2005 OE setup with the B&M lever upgrade. I think it’s mainly due to wear of the OE parts. I’m planning on running the setup naked so I’m not worried about that crappy console cover! Your posts have helped me immensely!

Now I’m just waiting for some 1/4” rod ends because my SSC cables shipped somehow with metric rod ends :(. Bought it quite a while back, so contacting the vendor probably is not fair.
I'm super happy that it's helpful. Thanks for the feedback.

I didn't have to get too far into the shift mechanism at the transmission, but it was still a pain to get the locking rings on the shift cable collars at the transmission with all the hoses and wires around that area. If I was doing the Letsla I'd remove the intake tube and see if there's anything else I can move around to get better clearance to the area.

FYI - I do have a new vibration noise in the shifter at about 5500-6500 RPM with the ShiftR. Seems to happen in every gear. I drove around without the console on to try to find it, readjusted the shift cables at the shifter and at the transmission and the cable routing in between but couldn't seem to stop it. I've adjusted every bolt on the shifter, both mounting at at the cables. When it happens, I can just lightly move the shifter side to side and it goes away.
 

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purveyor of lightness
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Thanks for the write up and videos. I’m tackling Shifter111, SSC cables, and LETSLA installation all together.
You will LOVE this setup - I run the exact same thing!

Feels like a million dollar car every time I shift :shift:
 

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Saffron Yellow is Lighter
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The built in reverse lockout stop nicely defines the 1-2 gear change location. I like your idea of adding a 5-6 adjustable hard stop. I see you used a carriage bolt and threaded spacer with a locknut. I will probably do the same. Did you tap the baseplate? I hope there is room to tap it without removing the crossgate assembly, which would involve basically removing most of the Shiftr111 setup.
Yes I tapped it, just remove it, I ended up taking it in and out way too many times.
 

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I used a small strip of Velcro (front and back) to allow me to apply the leather boot after the console was installed. This was partly because the clips would not grab on the GRP part, but also because it was much easier to do it this way. It seems secure and can be removed easily.
I hate those stupid clips that lotus used on the shift boot. I too had problems getting it to work with the GRP carbon console. I made up 3d printed adapter that replaces the OEM plastic ring inside bottom of the boot with one that snaps into the console. You can download the model from thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3918591
 

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Discussion Starter #91
I hate those stupid clips that lotus used on the shift boot. I too had problems getting it to work with the GRP carbon console. I made up 3d printed adapter that replaces the OEM plastic ring inside bottom of the boot with one that snaps into the console. You can download the model from thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3918591
That's cool, but it looks like it is deeper than the stock ring, I'm assuming it has to be for the plastic snaps to work. That will interfere with the ShiftR111. But that area could be removed from the ring, of course.
 
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