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Discussion Starter #1
...could someone confirm that these are the proper locations for lap belt eye bolts? I "borrowed" the picture from an old post by conan. Also, is the passenger side the same (mirrored)?

Thanks!
Tom
 

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you shouldn't have any trouble with the outboard driver's side hole location. i think i moved the inboard hole outboard about a 1/4", and wish i had done it perhaps 1/2".

the sliding seat mechanism likes to interfere with the lap belt clips. visualize the range of motion on the belt clips attached to the eye bolts BEFORE you mark for drilling.

is drilled in the miror locations on the passenger side.

do yourself a favor and attach the passenger side lap belt to the eyebolts before you reinstall the seats.


to be honest, i spent hours pondering and measuring and rechecking the placement of those holes. it is BY FAR the most nere wracking part of the entire install. moreso than even cutting into the seats shell.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks yet again, ace. What's the limiting factor on how far outboard we move the inboard eye? Just poor belt geometry?

Is that a Ridgeback or a Weimaraner?
 

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Thanks yet again, ace. What's the limiting factor on how far outboard we move the inboard eye? Just poor belt geometry?
Weirdest thing - I am getting ready to do this too - and my 07 Exige S (delivered 06/07 w/ bumpers) seems to already have the holes pre-drilled for this - in these exact locations. They don't go all the way through, so I'll still have to drill, but it seems there are already pilot holes there. Ace - did your car have the same?

Wonder if they just use the same floor pans as the cup cars for the exige?

Cheers,
-Darryl
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Darryl, mind taking some measurements of where your holes are located? If it's good enough for the factory, it should be good enough for me!

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks 9and3...that definitely helps with the outboard point.

Tom
 

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Thanks yet again, ace. What's the limiting factor on how far outboard we move the inboard eye? Just poor belt geometry?

Is that a Ridgeback or a Weimaraner?
i can't recall the "optimal" alignment (from the schroth guide) for the lap belts, but i think that moving the inboard hole outward is going in the "wrong" direction from a 100% safety standpoint. but there's only but so much room back there :shrug:

if your kit came with the "warped" washers, you can use an extra or two on that side to gain some clearance against the rail. also, be sure to use some red threadlocker.

that's my 12 YO RR bitch.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Great...thanks.

Good looking dog. My RR male just turned 5.
 

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Darryl, mind taking some measurements of where your holes are located? If it's good enough for the factory, it should be good enough for me!

Tom
After looking at the pictures in post 9 that 9and3 referenced, I suspect the extra holes are for the Competition Seat mounting brackets, not for the eyebolts.

In this picture, posted by 9and3 of a current cup car, you can see a hole a little more inboard - I believe this is where the regular Exige/S seats sit. The ones a little more outboard are where the competition seat rails sit.

I did take some quick photos of mine. Better pics once I get the stuff and remove the seat, but here's what I've got for now.


Here's the same view in my 07 Exige S. You can see the hole is pretty close, but I don't think you could squeeze an eyebolt in there. Maybe you could, but the hole looks threaded, & with no reinforcement plate below.

Here's a pic of the driver side, inboard, rear seat rail mount. I'm a little torn as to whether I should use this hole, or drill another more outboard from here.

Cheers,
-Darryl
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It does look tight for an eye bolt. If you do decide to use those holes, I would drill through them and use a backer plate.

Tom
 

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It does look tight for an eye bolt. If you do decide to use those holes, I would drill through them and use a backer plate.

Tom

Yep - definitely. Am curious as to whether anyone else w/ an 07 exige S w/ bumpers has this & where they ended up drilling their holes...

I suspect I may end up drilling separate holes in case I ever decide to use the competition seat mount.:shrug:

Cheers,
-Darryl
 

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that location is too close to the seat rail. the slider will hit the eyebolt and mangle the clip-in.
 

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that location is too close to the seat rail. the slider will hit the eyebolt and mangle the clip-in.
Thanks Ace. Yep, I suspected as much. Any pics of your install? Am curious as to whether drilling a hole to the side of these might be too far away... :shrug:

(I decided against mounting the lap belts to the seat using the sector111 kit. I think the eyebolts would provide more security in the event of a crash.)

Harnesses should be here this week (w/ eye bolts & backing plates), along with Ti Dave's sub bar. Just need to get the slit in the seat taken care of next...


Cheers,
-Darryl
 

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i made no measurements and took no photos. it was as if i was in my own little freakish world with that project. running back and forth to the computer (ET) and the schroth guide. marking holes, erasing marks, marking again.

as for the backing plates, i ground them down to a shape that would clear all of the irregularities under the belly. it was slow work, but i wanted the plates perfectly flush. i also sprayed undercoating on the back side of the plates prior to install, and then after the bolts were secure, i taped the area and sprayed he end of the bolts and backer plates.

as for seat holes.

from this thread:
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53883
this post specifically:
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=959569&postcount=6
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I also plan on grinding the backer plates to fit. How much material needs to be removed? I'm going to use plastic shim stock to isolate the steel from the aluminum.
 

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I also plan on grinding the backer plates to fit. How much material needs to be removed? I'm going to use plastic shim stock to isolate the steel from the aluminum.
i just used roughly marked the plates, and then trial and error'd them to the proper shape. i'd guess that the outboard ones lose maybe 10 to 15% of the material.

spin them snug on the eye bolt up against the body, then mark 'em up. it took many trip to the grinder to get them close. getting the plate to fit around the circular disc on the underbody took the longest. my second one came out much better.

good idea about the shim.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Gotcha. Sounds tedious but pretty straight forward.

Thanks,
Tom
 
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