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Discussion Starter #1
I have had my car apart for a little while doing this and that, I decided to change the tensioner with the belt. I guess this concetric hub was just a press fit. I hit with my acetylene torch, cooled it quick and the bearing fell right off. Anyone know is this bearing universal for all 4 cylinder Esprits?

Im guessing im gonna have to press it back on instead of using the torch so as to not sacrifice my new bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Anyone have an idea of the cost of this bearing elsewhere, it looks like SJ has it for 23 pounds? RD is $99, JAE ?

AHH Dry ice, that sounds like a great idea, I've never done that though, where do I look to get dry ice, does it have another purpose? Im thinking who would sell it. I guess I have to use gloves to touch this after I freeze it or pliers maybe. I used to know a guy that delivered frozen foods that had access to it, but doesnt do that any longer. Heck I could probaby just put this part outside as friggin cold as it is now.

Im more of a "heat mizer" than "mister freeze" hence the questions.
 

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There's a US website called dryiceDirectory if you want to access that. Locally (Bucks County, PA), one can get dry ice from a local dairy (Rosenberger's). We used to use blocks of it for shipping frozen beef samples to potential sales.

Even with the exchange rate at 1.67 dollars to the pound, depending on where you are, SJ may come in just a smidgen cheaper...oddly enough.

--Scott
 

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Seems like a lot of trouble to try to find a piece of dry ice for something like this. I use a press and have never had a problem. You could put it in the freezer for a while I suppose...
 

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Our local Publix grocery store sells it.

Shouldn't be too hard to find
 

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Grocery stores sell dry ice. It's cheap, and it is much colder than anything else you'll get your hands on.

I used it to freeze shrink my new water pump spigot in my lotus head, it literally dropped in without a press, and will be there permanently. If you don't have a press, that is the way to go.
 

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1988 Esprit Turbo
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Why not approach it from BOTH directions? :p



Keep the hub in your freezer overnight.

Heat the bearing to a "moderately" warm temp like 200 - 250 F for 30 minutes in your oven. That temp should expand it OK without damage.


Use gloves to handle both, assemble promptly.


If it doesn't work try a press (seems odd that you don't have one with all the work you do), or look for the Dry Ice.
 

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Mark (Amanda),
Out here in the SF bay area, I always get my dry ice from a company called Airgas...I believe they are nationwide and the largest producer of dry ice in the U.S. I used to buy from them all the time when I used to fly with food items for presentation to warehouse club buying offices.

Here is a link to their website:

Dry Ice - Airgas.com

Not sure where you are located, but you can input your location into their store locator here:

Airgas Store Locator

Also, check your local liquor stores. Out here in SF, most don't carry it, but some do.

Roy
Ice Ice Baby...so cold...so cold :)
 

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I did some xref research on the bearing before I replaced mine. I wound up just ordering mine along with the belt from JAE so I can't verify that any of the information below is correct.

I have a bearing press so I just used that to change it. It wasn't very tight on the adjuster. As long as you support it by the INNER race you can probably just tap the adjuster in or use a vice.


Tensioner Bearing
Lotus A907E6249F
Lotus A907E6249FA
Ford 1500004
Ford 715FGA265AA
Ford 915FGA265AA
Gates T41149
Ina 531 0098 20
SKF VKM14300
SKF 414871A
TIMKEN TKR9841
HK S781
SK SK781021

Dim OD 63, ID 31, HT 30
Apps Ford Transit 77-86
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I ordered my bearing from Ray at RD, he is about 70 miles from me, and pending a winter storm I should get it Tuesday at the latest, well depending on the storm.

The dry ice thing fascinates me, Im gonna try it, just for the sake of trying it. I have an airgas store near me also, but I have a feeling I can find it elsewhere to.

This bearing had numbers on it, but they dont seem to cross to any of the popular bearings I could find in a internet search. THIS TIME I ordered the recommended replacement, usually im all about substituting or cross referencing, or fabricating ten times over before I spend a dime LOL, im frugal.
 

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I ordered my bearing from Ray at RD, he is about 70 miles from me, and pending a winter storm I should get it Tuesday at the latest, well depending on the storm.
I would have enjoyed bringing you the part, before the who-knows-how-many-inches storm we're supposed to get arrives, had I known you lived so (relatively) close to me (in Quakertown--same town as Ray), if you were attending the PALS event tomorrow. Heck, there's a chance the bearing could arrive before Tuesday--the Richlandtown post office is a five minute drive from Ray's, and with his level of customer service, I'd be surprised if he didn't go there a half hour after you paid for the bearing. What a really good guy and excellent customer service (he responds promptly and courteously to emails).

The information in this thread is valuable (incl. the xref), especially for anyone wanting to change out bearings prior to a cam belt replacement (subject of another detailed thread).

--Scott
 

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I used to use liquid nitrogen to install bronze bushings into core chucks. Must use special gloves, this stuff is -30 degrees below 0.

The bearing from JAE is $100, the same as Ray. It will press in easily however you must support the inner race with a socket to handle the pressure from destroying the bearing.

Robert
 

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That technique is used where it is not practical to use a press. For example I used Dry Ice to put valve seats into cylinder blocks. We would heat up the block with a torch and keep the valve seats on the Dry Ice. They would just drop in with a few light hammer taps and once the temperature stabilized it is called a "Shrink Fit". No good way to put a block in a press, especially if it is in a boat! If you feel you just have to experiment just heat up the housing you are trying to press the bearing into. Keep in mind when you cool metal that cold it can become brittle. If you were to drop the bearing it could crack! Also you cannot put the bearing into immediate use, the grease is solid as a rock! You must rewarm the bearing to get the grease to work. For just a tensioner make sure the bore is clean and there are no nicks, scratches or grooves. Make sure everything is clean and the bearing starts straight, NOT cocked. Press ONLY against the outer race. To reduce the pressure you can also spray WD-40 in the housing before installing the bearing. Stop just as soon as you "bottom" the bearing or you can crack the housing. You can also pound it in with a hammer but no one will recommend that although I have seen and done it successfully. Miss and you can mess everything up.
David Teitelbaum
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I think I really am gonna seek out some dry ice once I get the bearing, however I could probably freeze it also with some refrigerant, when they leak a small amount out of my gauges upon connecting and reconnecting to equipment, it freezes the crap out of the fitting in a split second. I have about 5 different (R's) I stock, not certain how environmentally friendly that would be though.
 
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